Clutch Lever Suddenly Won't Retract Fully/Barely Shift Gears

Hopped on the 94 ST1100 for an errand, all normal until pulling to a stop 600 yards down the road.

The clutch lever, which I have always pulled to the handlebar, suddenly wouldn't not close the last 3/4". I was able to complete the next 6 or so shifts to get home, and while initially the clutch was just disengaged enough for 3 - 4 shifts (all first, neutral, second stuff), the last couple shifts were really difficult. Probably last in-gear test in the driveway, the bike may have moved slightly in first, with clutch lever as far in as possible, as one might expect.

Thus, the clutch itself seems to be operating fine; problem is that pushrod or somesuch just won't go far enough into the master cylinder. If I use a little strength pulling the lever in, there is a click and the lever comes in perhaps 3/16".

This lever has been a bit sloppy/loose in vertical movement for a while; I've read here on the blog about re-placing the pushrod, boot, bushing, and lever, but I don't feel too certain that others' problems had this characteristic of a clutch lever that wouldn't quite come to the handlebar, and generated a click if pulled a bit harder.

Anybody?

And, while we're at it, how do you get the bushing out of the clutch lever in order to replace it and the pushrod?

Thx a million

Sounds like the busing is shot. It's been a while, but I think you press it in or out of the lever. You'll have to remove the lever from the clutch housing. The rod slips out of the master cylinder, probably be stuck in the bushing. A new bushing is under $10 and I doubt if a dealer has one in stock. I think the number is 22885-MB0-006.

HelmetHead said:

...how do you get the bushing out of the clutch lever...

Click to expand...

I just replace the complete lever/s (usually the brass 'eye' in the brake lever is worn down at the same mileage... by then also the anodizing has worn off, making them appear kinda haggish...), rest of the parts for clutch master can be seen here: http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/clutch_master_cylinder.htm (brake master: http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/brake_cylinder_master_front.htm)
Is the clutch hydraulic properly bleed? Any discoloration of the oil noticeable? Oil replaced last when? On a '94 one might as well consider overhaul of the clutch server cylinder: http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/clutch_cover.htm

The cause of the problem could be in the lever/MC or in the clutch slave cylinder or even the clutch assy. I would disconnect the hydraulic line at the MC output and see if the lever will pull in all the way. If it doesn't, it's the lever or MC. If it does, you have eliminated the lever & MC as the problem and can move on to the slave cylinder & clutch assy. My bet is on the clutch assy. - just a WAG. Sounds like something is jamming up.

I appreciate the perspectives and advisories. I have ordered a clutch lever, bushing, push rod, and boot, and I reckon I'll install them, and hope Jim Van's WAG is wrong. The clutch lever's pivot hole is no longer circular, but slight elliptical, so the problem may have originated from me not addressing the sloppy lever a year or two ago.

That said, Jim, I really like your suggestion, and will execute it immediately if the new parts don't fix things, because I remain somewhat alarmed that the problem showed up so suddenly, and there is the odd click, etc....

p.s.: as folks seem to have understood, my second sentence should read "would not," as opposed to "wouldn't not."

Fixed everything by replacing clutch lever (pivot eyehole was shot), bushing, pushrod and rubber boot (which was falling apart). I think the source of the problem was that completely worn out pivot eyehole, so, had I done something earlier, merely replacing the clutch lever would have been sufficient. La-de-dah...