I'm thinking about these risers. But my 1100 ('02) has a plastic cover over the steering. Won't that interfere?
Risers on 2002 ST-1100 with that plastic cover?
- Thread starter alanm123
- Start date
Yes. Leave the cover off.
Plastic covers? We don't need no STinking plastic covers...
That's steenkin' plastic covers . . . and those 3.5" Rox risers will also require you to get longer hydraulic lines, so if you don't want that hassle, keep it to 2" risers.
This is what you do to make the plastic-less area look nicer.
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richpeabody
Site Supporter
I tried a 3" set on my '01. A reroute. Of brake and clutch as well as wires worked okay.
After a few rides, I opted for Heli Bars.
Have fun!
After a few rides, I opted for Heli Bars.
Have fun!
I have 4" Samson risers on my '98 (3" over stock) and I just had to reroute the cables, brake and clutch hose were fine.
And yes... Leave the cover off
do you have the part number of that steering stem nut? That looks great!
OP
OP
A-ha! Duh.
Interesting. That looks great. Maybe the 2" risers will be better. Question: It looks like these simply clamp over the cylinders of the risers and the handlebars. I don't see any notches on them. I think that means they're almost completely adjustable as to final height, angle, etc. I could angle the riser forward, and then decide the angle of the bars to control the final distance. Is that true? Or are the angles involves pretty much pre-defined? Could it be that the fuel tank and fairing pretty much limit the possibilities?
Hmm. I'm curious why you chose HeliBars if you already had these on your bike. What didn't you like about them?
~Alan
Yes, the part number is . . . Amsoil oil bottle lid in Black . . . stuck in place quite securely with a wad of Dum Dum.
You can adjust both the risers and the bars within the risers to suit, but ensuring zero contact with the windshield and top shelter (tank cover). There are no notches, but I mounted mine to come straight up towards me with the bar ends at their normal angle so that my hands lay flat (about parallel to the ground) when using the levers, if you know what I mean. Those that use 3" or more risers, like Irish, appear to be rotating their controls and master cylinders towards the front of the bike somewhat and that would help with the hose length problems.
Awesome!Yes, the part number is . . . Amsoil oil bottle lid in Black . . . stuck in place quite securely with a wad of Dum Dum.
I liked the plastic cover and wanted to keep it so I
1- Rerouted my clutch line, Replaced the brake line with SS from Amazon ?Areyourshop 55cm/22" M10 Brake Oil Hose Line Banjo Fitting Stainless Steel Swivel End? for $11.99
2- Then the cover is attached to the bike at 3 points, 2 under the cover and 1 on top near the key.
3- I cut some strips of that metal banding with holes in it and used to extend the mounting points.
4- Next the key was buried deep in the cover so I made a key extender by taking a piece Galvanized metal (I used a 2? pipe strap) and with a dremel tool cut a slot in the center to insert the key then folded the metal over and up to extend the grip area, then wrapped the metal with elect tape and covered everything with shrink tube to seal it.
1- Rerouted my clutch line, Replaced the brake line with SS from Amazon ?Areyourshop 55cm/22" M10 Brake Oil Hose Line Banjo Fitting Stainless Steel Swivel End? for $11.99
2- Then the cover is attached to the bike at 3 points, 2 under the cover and 1 on top near the key.
3- I cut some strips of that metal banding with holes in it and used to extend the mounting points.
4- Next the key was buried deep in the cover so I made a key extender by taking a piece Galvanized metal (I used a 2? pipe strap) and with a dremel tool cut a slot in the center to insert the key then folded the metal over and up to extend the grip area, then wrapped the metal with elect tape and covered everything with shrink tube to seal it.
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I hate it when I have to turn my desktop computer on its side to see the pictures properly!
OP
OP
That's fantastic! I'd want to keep the plastic if at all possible, mainly because the previous owner installed heated grips with the hi/off/lo button embedded in that part. Using the hanger strap metal as an extension should work well. The key extension is interesting.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
I did the 'flip clip' risers which give you about 1" of rise (which was all I needed) and kept the cover. As was pointed out, the issue with keeping the cover is the key. I used a piece of closet pole to 'line' the key hole and then still use the standard key as is. Some folks have used an empty 35mm film canister for the same purpose, but those are probably quite rare nowadays. ;-)
OP
OP
Well the 3.5" Rox extensions have helped a lot. I can sit upright when I want to and keep both hands on the bars. I left the plastic off and it's fine. I even removed the heated hand-grips. I don't ride much in winter. I didn't like the wires all over. Plus, whoever installed the heated grips took the power line off the outlet! So now it will be easy (easier) to reconnect that power.
I had to buy a longer brake line, but the clutch and all electricals were okay simply by re-routing them.
By the way, regarding the power outlet, does that normally provide juice with the key in the off position? It might be nice to make that switched.
I had to buy a longer brake line, but the clutch and all electricals were okay simply by re-routing them.
By the way, regarding the power outlet, does that normally provide juice with the key in the off position? It might be nice to make that switched.
The st1100 didn't come with any power outlets so it depends on who installed it as to whether it will be hot all the time or switched. I have 4 outlets on my bike that I installed. 3 are switched and 1 is hot all the time. The only reason I wired the one to be hot was so I could use that outlet to hook up my battery tender to instead of having a charger pigtail hanging off the battery.