ST1100 or something new? Traveling cross country for externships.

I have a well-maintained 1999 ST1100 and I will be traveling to MD, TN, NC and Michigan for 4th year veterinary school externships. I need to take a motorcycle as I am not made of money and need a way of cheapish travel. The bike has 112K miles on it and will need a carb rebuild and a new clutch before I go. The trip will start in May and end in October (back to the great state of Texas). My wife proposed me getting a newer used bike for the trip as my bike is older and has 112K miles. I am fairly confident that she, Roxanne, will make it. BUT, I wonder if a new bike would be better.

Cons for keeping ST1100:
1) 112K miles
2) Not 110% sure she will make it the whole way without incident
3) I don't get a newer motorcycle

Pros for keeping ST1100:
1) No payments or need to drain some of the bank account (thinking of BMW 1200RT, 1600GT or 1200GS/GSA)
2) Roxanne, ST1100, is set up just the way I like her - lights, exhaust, windshield, etc...
3) I KNOW Roxanne inside and out and could almost tear her down to the frame on the side of the road
4) I may get a BRAND NEW BMW/HONDA 3 years from now if I keep my current bike vs buying a used one now

What is your opinion. I have heard that the ST1100s have been very reliable all the way to 300K miles. Let me know!

Alex has 400,000 MILES on his. Multiple Iron Butt's, rallies across the North American continent too many times to count. So with that said, I suppose there's no excuses... LOL Remember that his bike is very well kept. Do the proper maintenance and "GO RIDE!"

Do the maintenance you mentioned, carbs and clutch. As long as you are doing the clutch, check the timing belt and all your hoses/connections. Inspect all the electrical connectors that you can reach for corrosion...clean with contact cleaner and protect with silicone grease if you find corrosion.

Big question: is the bike reliable currently? If so, go for it...otherwise look for an alternative....or just trust in the force.

Why will it need 'a carb rebuild and a new clutch' before it goes? Are they giving you problems? I've got on with 150,000+ miles on one of my ST1100s and I've never touched the carbs or the clutch. The same for another one I have that just rolled over 100,000 miles. The biggest problem with ST1100s is folks tend to want to work on them instead of riding them. Unless you've had a bunch of clutch slippage or carb problems, I'd only be concerned about replacing the timing belt - which I usually do at 100,000 miles. I have owned both of those ST1100s since new, so I do know the history of mine. ;-)

Uncle Phil said:

Why will it need 'a carb rebuild and a new clutch' before it goes? Are they giving you problems? I've got on with 150,000+ miles on one of my ST1100s and I've never touched the carbs or the clutch. The same for another one I have that just rolled over 100,000 miles. The biggest problem with ST1100s is folks tend to want to work on them instead of riding them. Unless you've had a bunch of clutch slippage or carb problems, I'd only be concerned about replacing the timing belt - which I usually do at 100,000 miles. I have owned both of those ST1100s since new, so I do know the history of mine. ;-)

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Thank you all for replying.

Background of the bike: I am the 3rd owner of the bike. She came in my possession at 23,000 miles. The first owner totaled it. A motorcycle repair place took the bike and got it back to a regular pink title (apparently through DPS and appropriate routes). The second owner owned it for 2-3 years and let her sit in the garage and rode her only on the occasional weekend. I purchased her for a small $4000 back in 2008 (blue book around $7-$8K). I fixed the not-so-good fairing repairs and made her into what she is now! From 23,000 miles there has been impeccable maintenance on her (I am pretty meticulous).

To answer your questions about the carbs, they backfire when at a constant RPM. This occurs mainly when the bike is cold but also does it a little once it is at operating temperatures. It will be running and then one or several of the carbs will "pop". You can feel this "pop" in the bike. The "pop" causes a very slight kick while running down the road. The bike isn't as smooth as it was when I first acquired it.

As for the clutch, I have only had the occasional problem with it. Again, when it is cold and I let off a little fast there is a harsh sound (clutch slip). This happens very rarely. But once at operating temperatures it doesn't happen. Also, when the bike is at operating temperatures I do have a slight shutter when leaving a stop (not always).

Additionally, the engine has always made a very slight and subtle knock when at the upper end of the temperature range (I live in Texas). It has done this from the get go and think it just may be an ST thing. 99% of people say they don't hear it and some say yes but it isn't a big deal. I just know because I ride her EVERY DAY!

In conclusion, I think my motorcycle will last but I have some minor reservations. I am afraid I may settle on a newer bike that is not me. This bike is me. However, I don't want to put over $2000 into repairing the carbs and replacing the clutch. Do you think I just need to ride it and ignore these problems? Should I get a newer bike? Should I fix the problems and keep her?

Did you have the aftermarket exhaust since you owned it? That could be part of your carb issue. I'm also thinking it's possible your carbs are out of sync.
When was the last time you flushed the hydraulics?
Have you changed out the timing belt?
if you've serviced it regularly, which is my understanding I think the bike will do you well on your journey cross country

IMHO:
You own the bike and you know the bike (I hesitate to suggest you have carnal knowledge of same! ).

New spark plugs.
Change the clutch springs (from your description, my bet is they have compressed a bit).
Complete fluid change.
Timing belt change.
(The timing belt change is sneaky, because you'll have to resync the carbs... )
Popping says exhaust leak...find it...

Keep it until you're done with school...

Good luck!

If you 'milk' the clutch (hold in ever so slightly when you take off), you can make it slip. If the clutch does not slip while fully engaged, leave it alone. Does it still have the PAIR system on it? There's great discussion as to whether removing helps or hurts the 'popping'. And if the bike runs fine even though you have an occasional 'pop', I wouldn't worry about it. One of mine 'pops' when it's cold but runs fines the rest of the time (it had the PAIR system removed before I got it - my only 'used' one). You can spend a lot of time looking for the 'pop' cause and may never find it. The only real issue I see is getting the timing belt replaced since the 'normal' interval is 90,000 miles (I do mine at 100,000). FWIW, most folks who change them say the old one looks as good as the new one. And doing all the fluids is a good thing also as Mark said. My 'oldest' girl has over 150,000 miles on her and I plan on riding her up to Moonshine, then over to the Mansfield, OH RTE in April. I would not hesitate to ride her to Alaska or California in a heartbeat (she's been in both places). As I said, the best thing you can do to these bikes is ride them! ;-)

Repair what you know needs to be fixed. Check out all the possible problem that may occur. If you have the money for a newer used machine keep it set aside. Travel with the bill of sale. If the ST fails to a point it not worth you fixing, buy the used bike and possibly part out the ST (the sum of the parts is more than the value of the whole). If it lives through your education you've got the down payment for a new bike.

Len

Mark said:

IMHO:
You own the bike and you know the bike (I hesitate to suggest you have carnal knowledge of same! ).

...................

Timing belt change.
(The timing belt change is sneaky, because you'll have to resync the carbs... )
Good luck!

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Carb synchronization is a fine adjustment that coordinates/matches airflow among all four carbs and has nothing to do with timing. Yes, if the timing is off carb synch is a waste of time until that is corrected. If an old belt has stretched sufficiently...I can understand how that would necessitate a carb adjustment. Changing the timing belt cannot alter carb sync.
Please correct me if I missed something.

Oldbikefixr said:

Please correct me if I missed something.

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You didn't miss anything.
I remembered doing carb syncs on both of ours after the timing belt change and mistakenly suggested it was required...

My bad, thanks for pointing it out...

Mark said:

You didn't miss anything.
I remembered doing carb syncs on both of ours after the timing belt change and mistakenly suggested it was required...

My bad, thanks for pointing it out...

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No foul. Thanks for reaffirming that I'm not coming down with dementia. Something I worry about these days....that and saying something really dumb.

Awesome advice!!!! Thank you all sooooo much!

Yes, the timing belt needs changing. It is on my list in the next month. I was going to change it over Christmas break but I ran out of time. The carbs are still paired and the exhaust was put on the bike after I took ownership, which may be the problem or some of the problem.

After sleeping on it overnight, I have decided to change the timing belt (was going to do anyway), leave the carbs as the pop isn't a big problem, and change the springs and fluids for the clutch. This is a huge relief as I was not 100% on selling her and would've regretted doing so.

Another member completely satisfied and thankful of the forum!

Thank you,

David

Last summer I took my 1990 out west it performed flawlessly, it was such a treat to ride. That bike is currently waiting for an alternator transplant. My good friend will be taking on that operation and he will be getting that bike as there's lots of life left in that one. They're like the energizer bunny...they kep going and going and going.
tend to that timing belt and you will be going another 100K

It will only be time to get rid of an ST1100 when you can no longer find parts for it.

Mcreviver said:

It will only be time to get rid of an ST1100 when you can no longer find parts for it.

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Main reason I moved along from GL1000's. Wear parts were and still are easy to find. Small detail parts, that make one look showroom new, were difficult/impossible to find for my last restoration. Gave up 'cause it was taking far too long and sold the three bikes and all my spares. Presto......room for the St1100.

Seriously thank you. Every minute that has gone by after deciding to keep her makes me happier and happier. I know she will get me down the road and do it with perfection!

dualsportdave said:

Seriously thank you. Every minute that has gone by after deciding to keep her makes me happier and happier. I know she will get me down the road and do it with perfection!

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You made a very good decision. Be happy putting lots and lots of miles on it!

Getting close to becoming: Dr Dave, DVM!...just read through this informative/reaffirmation of the reliability of the ST1100...& after I clicked on the photo of your ST11K & saw how GORGEOUS it is...& how it has served you all the miles since 23K...I am happy to learn that you have confidence in continuing with the bike through your upcoming externship!...I suggest that you consider placing a few well-placed stickers on that strikingly handsome bike(canine, feline, fowl, & your choice of livestock stickers) to "brand" your ride to your impending profession!... Again, Man... Dave..., REALLY NICE ST11!:bow1:

One piece of advice and you won,t go wrong........Listen to Uncle Phil