It's About Time..... (valve check)

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I assume one of the reasons my ticking stopped was that the recomended lighter oil in most vehicles gets to the valve train quicker and thus has no chance of running dry for a few seconds.
That would be correct and usually only noticeable in a hydraulically actuated valve train. Some auto engine applications use hydraulic valve lifters, but our ST's do not.
 

TPadden

Tom Padden
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That would be correct and usually only noticeable in a hydraulically actuated valve train. Some auto engine applications use hydraulic valve lifters, but our ST's do not.
Almost all motorcycle cam chain tensioners are hydraulically actuated and most "ticking" on startup for a motorcycle is merely cam chain clatter that disappears as the tensioner tightens the chain. Oil viscosity has a lot to do with it.
 

dduelin

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Honda recommends 10w-40. So that is what I went with. I believe thinner oils do not hold up well under hot conditions. But seems like its working for you.
FWIW the 2003-2006 ST1300 models have the 10w40 recommendation as primary in the owner's manual but starting in 2007 that changed to 10w30 as Honda brought all street bikes under one recommendation. Their were no changes to the engine just to the owner's manual.
 
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dduelin

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Almost all motorcycle cam chain tensioners are hydraulically actuated and most "ticking" on startup for a motorcycle is merely cam chain clatter that disappears as the tensioner tightens the chain. Oil viscosity has a lot to do with it.
I don't know about most motorcycles but Honda motorcycles normally incorporate a mechanical spring-loaded cam chain tensioner.
 
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WOW....I LIKE to hear people talk valve train stuff right when I'm gonna check my clearances. Its like going to pre school before I hit the class. Thanks to you all for your two cents. And a BIG thanks to my friend T Dillman who is loaning me the right stuff to make this a breeze. I now have numerous ST1300 Valve clearance Worksheets that are color printouts of of each head (valve cover and cams removed) and photos at the bottom with cam timing marks clearly readable ! I am so stoked ! He also loaned me his 03-05 service manual.
With my forks off it will be a breeze to watch for correct alignment in the inspection hole at the front of the block. Thanks Mr T ! Hope to start on it soon !
 

dduelin

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WOW....I LIKE to hear people talk valve train stuff right when I'm gonna check my clearances. Its like going to pre school before I hit the class. Thanks to you all for your two cents. And a BIG thanks to my friend T Dillman who is loaning me the right stuff to make this a breeze. I now have numerous ST1300 Valve clearance Worksheets that are color printouts of of each head (valve cover and cams removed) and photos at the bottom with cam timing marks clearly readable ! I am so stoked ! He also loaned me his 03-05 service manual.
With my forks off it will be a breeze to watch for correct alignment in the inspection hole at the front of the block. Thanks Mr T ! Hope to start on it soon !
The timing marks are easy to see from the side when using a small mirror. Unless you are doing maintenance on the forks of course while in the course of the valve check.
 
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That makes a lot of sense (Honda changing the oil recommendation). I live in the Chicago area and ride only when it is above 45F. Which for me means no riding between Nov - April. This means my bike does not even need a 10W oil. I would be ok with SAE 30. This oil would cover the average temperature for the Chicago area between May - Oct 30 or early November. is there a recommendation for a 10W 30 motorcycle oil. Thanks.
 
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Hey John, I'm glad your back on the forums. If I wasn't taking a 2 week vacation, I'd be down there to help. Good luck.
 
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Hey John, I'm glad your back on the forums. If I wasn't taking a 2 week vacation, I'd be down there to help. Good luck.
Hi Ed ! Yeah, would LOVE to have yah down. I get to Gilroy about once a week...this week Wednesday to attempt a valve clearance check myself...heck I got the time why spend the money? lol Anyway give me a shout someday and make an appointment to get to the man cave. Steve (STierra) just contacted me so maybe we could have a time to visit between us, like a mini tech event...be fun !
 
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I don't know about most motorcycles but Honda motorcycles normally incorporate a mechanical spring-loaded cam chain tensioner.
That would be correct with the 1300. I found out that when loosening the chain tension through the hole provided below #1 cylinder. Back that cover bolt out and you can back the tension off sufficient enough to get the cams out. They show a drawing of a small steel tool you can make (like a stepped key) that allows you to lock the tension "off" that wont allow the spring to spring back into tension. I ground a small screw driver to turn the tensioner and it stayed loose long enough by itself. Others may not be so lucky. I was able to finish my valve shim replacement today, install a new O2 sensor and install new iridium spark plugs. Later on I did a test run in the garage and it started and ran really nice. So the schooling in the garage was well worth the time spent. Front end goes back on next, check the air cleaner and a brake fluid change....I should be good to go for many miles of smiles soon.
 

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Good on you John. That's a good feeling when it starts and purrs.............
 
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Nice that the valves are done, I've never done my forks, so let us know your thoughts and challenges changing out the fork oil on them.
My left dust seal has a nick it, so I'll probably be doing seals when I change my fork oil.
 
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Congrats on doing the valve inspection.
Looking back...it seemed like a daunting thing (not unlike the first time I removed the tupperware) but now it was fairly straightforward. Nothing to fear but the word itself. The one exhaust valve I found out of spec I replaced with a half step shim. The shim kit I had borrowed had only whole steps and I didn't want to exceed at the fat end of specs, seeing that most were at .010 anyway. .008 was just not exceptable.
For a first time novice like me it was really nice to have the front forks off so I could have a close up view of the timing marks through the inspection hole, rather than using a mirror and a flashlight. That little point of steel at the top is hard to line up with the T1 mark...even up close.

I guess I should address the paint failure above that inspection hole and around the lower radiator hose as well.

Thanks Jim and Dave ! You've all been a good encouragement to me.
 

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Nice that the valves are done, I've never done my forks, so let us know your thoughts and challenges changing out the fork oil on them.
My left dust seal has a nick it, so I'll probably be doing seals when I change my fork oil.
I farmed out the forks this time around but with the price nearly double from when done a couple years ago I am seriously considering building a seal setter tool from ABS tubing that I saw somewhere here on the site.
 
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Now that you are an experienced valve checker, I'll know who'll to call for advice.

BTW, I had Race Tech Gold Valves and springs installed last fall. Also got bushings and seals at the same time. The ride is 100% better than stock Honda.
 
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Now that you are an experienced valve checker, I'll know who'll to call for advice.

BTW, I had Race Tech Gold Valves and springs installed last fall. Also got bushings and seals at the same time. The ride is 100% better than stock Honda.
Hey Ed ! Yeah ...its not that bigga deal when you go through it slow. Love to have you down sometime. Todd has all the whole step shims and getting a half step one wasn't too bad from the steeler ship. Wow, that was a big move doing those forks. Love to feel what your ride feels like now. When was yer last valve check done and how many miles do you have on the ticker now? Maybe we could do a fall or early winter check on yours before it turns like a fridge in the garage. Was up yer way the other day doing playground equiptment inspections with my brother from Minnesota.
Cheers to Yah !
 
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