Fuel float, upper tank.

Re: Fuel level gauge, what's up with that.

My bad, I should have included some history. January I posted about my fuel gauge not working. Gauge would ack like the float was sinking. the longer the upper tank was empty the longer the gauge seem to work, measured in hours.
Fuel gauge would show 3 bars then work normally once upper tank was empty. So I bought a replacement, used.
Replacement did the same thing for about a month. That evolved into doing what it is now. Can float and sending unit be installed wrong? Facing wrong way? I did clean contacts on old one and reinstall it. I did clean contacts on replacement before installation.

Re: Fuel level gauge, what's up with that.

Dave.David said:

My bad, I should have included some history. January I posted about my fuel gauge not working. Gauge would ack like the float was sinking. the longer the upper tank was empty the longer the gauge seem to work, measured in hours.
Fuel gauge would show 3 bars then work normally once upper tank was empty. So I bought a replacement, used.
Replacement did the same thing for about a month. That evolved into doing what it is now. Can float and sending unit be installed wrong? Facing wrong way? I did clean contacts on old one and reinstall it. I did clean contacts on replacement before installation.

Click to expand...

Both replacement and original look the same, no bends or cracks. The wire plug was different color but Honda shows same unit all years and models. Still wondering if unit can be put in, clocked wrong? Ideas please.

Re: Fuel level gauge, what's up with that.

Dave.David said:

My bad, I should have included some history. January I posted about my fuel gauge not working. Gauge would ack like the float was sinking.

Click to expand...

Ah, sorry... I even participated in that thread. I've merged the two together since one's kind of a continuation of the other.

Fuel gauge would show 3 bars then work normally once upper tank was empty. So I bought a replacement, used. Replacement did the same thing for about a month. That evolved into doing what it is now.

Click to expand...

I think I'd start by measuring the resistance of the sensor you removed from the bike as a baseline and see if it works electrically. You should see 1-6 Ω at one end of travel and 213-219 Ω at the other. The change in resistance as it moves should be smooth. If the problem with that one was just a leaking float, that part of it should be just fine. If it is, connect it to the wire on the bike and see what the fuel gauge does as you slowly move the float. If it fluctuates between two bars and full, that means everything on the bike is okay. Then pull the used unit and repeat the same exercise.

Section 22 of the service manual has the whole procedure for checking out everything from the sender to the dash.

Can float and sending unit be installed wrong? Facing wrong way?

Click to expand...

Off the top of my head, I don't think you'd be able to install it the wrong way without bumping into one of the edges of the tank. If the white insulator on the mounting plate points toward the front of the tank (where the two bolts that hold it down are), it's installed properly.

One other question: are you in the habit of inserting the nozzle into the tank when you fill up? We had someone many years ago who damaged his fuel sender doing that. It doesn't sound like this is what's going on in your case, but it's worth ruling it out.

--Mark

I was having code 25, left knock sensor going off till I reset the computer. (Thank you I go far.) I read here that code often leads to needing new ECU.

And now (3-3,17) when I start up the bike it sounds like the windshield motor is making a noise like click knock, a pause, then click knock, pause. Repeat.
I'd can move the windshield up and down while it's making the noise and windshield movement seems normal at speed or no speed , no noise while motor is working.
Maybe ECU is dying and this is its death noises? Any thoughts please.

Dave.David said:

I was having code 25, left knock sensor going off till I reset the computer. (Thank you I go far.) I read here that code often leads to needing new ECU.

And now (3-3,17) when I start up the bike it sounds like the windshield motor is making a noise like click knock, a pause, then click knock, pause. Repeat.
I'd can move the windshield up and down while it's making the noise and windshield movement seems normal at speed or no speed , no noise while motor is working.
Maybe ECU is dying and this is its death noises? Any thoughts please.

Click to expand...

I hope you replaced the knock sensor and / or ECU , quickly ; that was what was wrong with my BMW R1200 RT from brand new to 6 K when it had developed engine death throes / piston slap . The no-quality computer was not reading the knock sensors (2) and letting the engine be way-advanced & predetonating , even at ( uneven) idle. It sounded like crap . This trashed a brand new , $ 20K BMW for me with NO help from BMW .

Don't ride it anyway until you get this problem sorted out completely.

TourNut said:

I hope you replaced the knock sensor and / or ECU , quickly ; that was what was wrong with my BMW R1200 RT from brand new to 6 K when it had developed engine death throes / piston slap . The no-quality computer was not reading the knock sensors (2) and letting the engine be way-advanced & predetonating , even at ( uneven) idle. It sounded like crap . This trashed a brand new , $ 20K BMW for me with NO help from BMW .

Don't ride it anyway until you get this problem sorted out completely.

Click to expand...

Ouch. It's my only transportation. The code 25 is gone. Dose the ECU have anything to do with the windscreen motor?

The ECM is solid state and lives in the tail of the bike. The ECM failure that surrounds the knock sensor code isn't going to take the engine out with it unless both sensor fail and you run it under conditions where it's going to knock for extended periods.

What you're probably hearing is the motor that adjusts the headlights. Once in awhile it'll go all zombie if the adjuster knob gets dirty or, in rarer cases, if the motor assembly is failing. (None of this is connected to the ECM.)

--Mark

Blrfl said:

The ECM is solid state and lives in the tail of the bike. The ECM failure that surrounds the knock sensor code isn't going to take the engine out with it unless both sensor fail and you run it under conditions where it's going to knock for extended periods.

What you're probably hearing is the motor that adjusts the headlights. Once in awhile it'll. go all zombie if the adjuster knob gets dirty or, in rarer cases, if the motor assembly is failing.

--Mark

Click to expand...

Much more sense, ty. I'll try playing with headlight adj knob next time. And Mark, thank you for including the link, very nice. Thanks