Gas cap resisting?

Dave.David · Feb 17, 2017

2004. I turn the key and hear the pins retract but cap will not release. I finally pull out the pocketknife to lift the cap up before I break the key off. I do not hear any vacuum relief and I don't see any scrapes where the cap meets the tank. Can anybody tell me what is going wrong with this? Thank you

SMSW · Feb 17, 2017

As these caps age, many become difficult to open. I am guessing that the fuel vapors dissolve any lubricants in the lock and perhaps some corrosion sets in. If all else fails, you can remove the cap and ring by unscrewing the setscrews, and open the cap from below by carefully prying back the 'fingers'. I would then try using a dry lubricant like powdered graphite - squirt a little in the lock and then work the key back and forth. Alternatively, you can try a product called Lock-eze, which seems to be graphite in a very volatile solvent. The liquid evaporates leaving the graphite behind. Since it is in an aerosol can, this can be quite messy to use.

After you finish playing with it, you might consider one of the aftermarket screw in caps. I have an Oberon, but there are others that are cheaper.

Dave.David · Feb 17, 2017

SMSW said:
As these caps age, many become difficult to open. I am guessing that the fuel vapors dissolve any lubricants in the lock and perhaps some corrosion sets in. If all else fails, you can remove the cap and ring by unscrewing the setscrews, and open the cap from below by carefully prying back the 'fingers'. I would then try using a dry lubricant like powdered graphite - squirt a little in the lock and then work the key back and forth. Alternatively, you can try a product called Lock-eze, which seems to be graphite in a very volatile solvent. The liquid evaporates leaving the graphite behind. Since it is in an aerosol can, this can be quite messy to use.

After you finish playing with it, you might consider one of the aftermarket screw in caps. I have an Oberon, but there are others that are cheaper.

Thank you SMSW, but the lock and key part are working fine. I did lube the lock a few weeks ago just because I had the lube out, and when I used the knife the cap comes up quite easily. And yes I agree, this makes no sense :-(

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Dave.David · Feb 17, 2017

I just went out and took a good look at it. Not only is it working great the pins seemed to be moving inward as far as It will go. I'll have to try to get a better look when it's not working right. Maybe it is a heat thing?

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ST Gui · Feb 18, 2017

I've never had mine stick because of some vacuum. My first ST's cap stuck because one or both of the latches at the bottom didn't retract fully.

Or it might be that you just need to loosen the three Allen screws and adjust it a little.

Dave.David · Feb 18, 2017

jfheath said:
My first St1300 did that towards the end of the time that I had it. The problem was that the twin catches were not clearing the lip. I never found out what had changed. I filed a very small amount off each edge of the two catches in case there had been a little burring of the metal over time.

I could sometimes release the cap by pressing down hard on the lifting cap as I turned the key.

But the thing that made my life easier when filling up was deciding to do something that I never do - a little controlled force. A round tommy bar inside the fuel hole, placed at an angle and rolled it back and forth at the two points where the catches latch under the rim. A little pressure and it eased the pressed metal lip out enough to remove the problem. The amount of movement required was negligible. I certainly didn't feel anything bend or give way.

I've just bee out to look, and I noticed the catches are now a different design on my A9, from the photos that I have of my A6. I can feel that the inside of my filler hole is getting a little burred under the edge where the catches latch.

Great idea! I'll look for marks on the "fill tube" and do a little bit of both ideas, thanks.

Mellow · Feb 18, 2017

This worked for me:

Gas Cap Sticking

Dave.David · Feb 18, 2017

Mellow said:
This worked for me:

Gas Cap Sticking

Lots of good options there, thanks again Mellow

ST Gui · Feb 19, 2017

"STOP RESISTING!"

That almost never works.

skipcurt · Feb 20, 2017

Many here including myself have replaced the stock locking cap to a billet aluminum non-locking cap. I went with this one.

Skip

Dave.David · Feb 20, 2017

skipcurt said:
Many here including myself have replaced the stock locking cap to a billet aluminum non-locking cap. I went with this one.

Skip

Do they charge for the needed extra gasket? What do you do with the lid when it's off? I have to admit I like that the stock cap just folds out of the way, not going anywhere.

skipcurt · Feb 20, 2017

Dave.David said:
Do they charge for the needed extra gasket? What do you do with the lid when it's off? I have to admit I like that the stock cap just folds out of the way, not going anywhere.

No extra charge. Everything that's needed is included. I just set the lid on the seat. I always centerstand the bike when filling up so it shouldn't slide off. I just got tired of fighting the stuck cap and I no longer have to remove the keys from the ignition unless I have to go inside for some reason.

Skip

Dave.David · Feb 20, 2017

skipcurt said:
No extra charge. Everything that's needed is included. I just set the lid on the seat. I always centerstand the bike when filling up so it shouldn't slide off. I just got tired of fighting the stuck cap and I no longer have to remove the keys from the ignition unless I have to go inside for some reason.

Skip

Ty for replying

ST Gui · Feb 20, 2017

I like the look of the SSR billet caps but so far prefer the convenience of the OEM cap even after one refusing to open.

The site mentions the double gasket and says to 'contact us if you have ST1300 model'. What's that about?

skipcurt · Feb 20, 2017

ST Gui said:
I like the look of the SSR billet caps but so far prefer the convenience of the OEM cap even after one refusing to open.

The site mentions the double gasket and says to 'contact us if you have ST1300 model'. What's that about?

You just let them know you're installing on the ST1300 and they send you the extra gasket. Mine didn't need it.

Skip

Igofar · Feb 20, 2017

Your gas cap worked fine when new, so why would you think filing metal would fix it now?
If you remove the assembly, lift the gasket, you will see a silver washer, under this, you will see 3 small screws, remove these and the lock assembly will lift out, be sure to hold all the sliding brass parts together.
Lightly grease the female lock assembly housing (not the tumblers) then reassemble everything, and you'll find your key snaps back into position again and pops open like it did when it was new.
This has nothing to do with lubing the tumblers or key itself, but rather the housing that the assembly sits in, this allows free movement of all the parts. I suspect those folks who just spray lubricant inside the tumblers, often put enough in there to seep through the tumblers and some gets on the housing. dry graphite or key lubricant is ok on the tumblers, but the female housing assembly comes from honda with light grease in there.
.02

dduelin · Feb 20, 2017

I spritz a little Abus Ps88 lock lubricant about twice a year and the gas cap works like it did when new. Still using the original Honda key in the ignition and gas cap. I lube all the locks at the same time.

Dave.David · Feb 20, 2017

Igofar said:
Your gas cap worked fine when new, so why would you think filing metal would fix it now?
If you remove the assembly, lift the gasket, you will see 3 small screws, remove these and the lock assembly will lift out, be sure to hold all the sliding brass parts together.
You will then find that even though you were hearing something, it was not the part that needed to move. Lightly grease the female lock assembly housing (not the tumblers) then reassemble everything, and you'll find your key snaps back into position again and pops open like it did when it was new.
.02

I really like the idea of fixing the problem and not the symptom. But I can't help but wonder if something needs to be tighten. Clean and lube is great but won't fix worn out.
Igofar, dose the procedure you mention help with that problem?

Dave.David · Feb 20, 2017

Dave.David said:
I really like the idea of fixing the problem and not the symptom. But I can't help but wonder if something needs to be tighten. Clean and lube is great but won't fix worn out.
Igofar, dose the procedure you mention help with that problem?

I hope that dose not sound sarcastic, it is written sincerely

cdnemsguy · Feb 20, 2017

Igofar said:
Your gas cap worked fine when new, so why would you think filing metal would fix it now?
If you remove the assembly, lift the gasket, you will see 3 small screws, remove these and the lock assembly will lift out, be sure to hold all the sliding brass parts together.
You will then find that even though you were hearing something, it was not the part that needed to move. Lightly grease the female lock assembly housing (not the tumblers) then reassemble everything, and you'll find your key snaps back into position again and pops open like it did when it was new.
.02

I only have a little over 10000 miles on my 1300 now and of course it is a new bike still. Is this something I should do proactively so I don't have issues in the future, or am I ok? I haven't had any issue...YET.

Gas cap resisting?

Dave.David

Rider

SMSW

Dave.David

Rider

Dave.David

Rider

ST Gui

240Robert

Dave.David

Rider

Mellow

Joe

Dave.David

Rider

ST Gui

240Robert

skipcurt

Skip

Dave.David

Rider

skipcurt

Skip

Dave.David

Rider

ST Gui

240Robert

skipcurt

Skip

Igofar

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

Dave.David

Rider

Dave.David

Rider

cdnemsguy