Dead Bike

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Washington, DC
A couple of days ago, I tried starting up my 1993 ST1100, and after sputtering a few times during ignition, all the dash lights went off. The bike just does not start up anymore, and the only sign of life is the clock. However, the clock only works if the key was in the off position, but the numbers now fade every time I turn the key. All the dash lights are out though. I suspect it is a dead battery, though the bike was started at least 5-8 times the day before with no problem.

The question is, is there anything I should check for BEFORE ordering a new battery?
 

kiltman

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Check the connections by the main relay (red connector, as well as the connector for the voltage regulator/rectifier). They may be burned out. You will have to replace the connector with spade connectors and you may have to splice new wire. These connectors are just left of the battery.
 
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375
What kiltman said. Also, check your battery connections to be sure they are clean, and tight. St1100s, for some reason, the ground (-) to frame connection tends to get loose and this can cause all kinds of issues.

Get your battery load tested.
 
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though the bike was started at least 5-8 times the day before with no problem.

Therein lies the problem. Check what has been mentioned above while you are waiting for your new battery to arrive.
 

Mark

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I'd check all the grounds and you might want to clean the starter switch too...
 

Slydynbye

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When you get the battery I suggest a Motobatt MBTX12U This is the one I bought for my ST1100
I especially like the solid brass Terminals and Allen Bolts. On Amazon for about $80
 

Dave.David

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A couple of days ago, I tried starting up my 1993 ST1100, and after sputtering a few times during ignition, all the dash lights went off. The bike just does not start up anymore, and the only sign of life is the clock. However, the clock only works if the key was in the off position, but the numbers now fade every time I turn the key. All the dash lights are out though. I suspect it is a dead battery, though the bike was started at least 5-8 times the day before with no problem.

The question is, is there anything I should check for BEFORE ordering a new battery?
Starting the bike pulls a lot of power. Did it run enough to charge? And idling dose not count. Maybe you never gave the battery much time to charge and was just dead.
 
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ALWAYS . . . always check the battery cable connections first when this situation occurs. A loose cable can still supply the slight trickle needed for the clock, but once you ask for more with the key on, everything dies.
 
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All of the above. What I would do is slightly different, after checking the connections for corrosion: Connect my battery tender (or similar smart charger) and let it sit overnight. Try in the morning. Were I in a hurry, I would: Pull the battery. Take the battery from my car and connect it CAREFULLY with jumper cables insulated with heavy rags or gloves and/or tape. Try to start the bike. If she fires up, its the battery.

I don't like jumping the battery because of the limited space, danger of shorting out against the frame, and I have not yet made up a permanent harness that will make doing this easy and safe without pulling the side covers.
 
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Kenly NC
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07 ST1300A(P)
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Mine had the same issues, was a burned connector, large plug near the steering stem. I ended up cutting the offending wire and bypassed the connector.
 

paulcb

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Starting the bike pulls a lot of power. Did it run enough to charge? And idling dose not count. Maybe you never gave the battery much time to charge and was just dead.
Starting does pull a lot of current but regarding charging, idling does count. My ST11 reads the nominal ~14V at idle, as I suspect all the STs do, just like cars.
 

Dave.David

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Starting does pull a lot of current but regarding charging, idling does count. My ST11 reads the nominal ~14V at idle, as I suspect all the STs do, just like cars.
Sorry paulch, wrong. Volts don't count much when starting, need amps. Same with cars. Ever have your lights dim at idle, alt is turning to slow to charge a low battery.
 

Dave.David

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Please remember folks, if jumping from a car, do not have the car running, or try starting the car while connected to any motorcycle. Good chance of killing your charging system.
 

paulcb

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Sorry paulch, wrong. Volts don't count much when starting, need amps. Same with cars. Ever have your lights dim at idle, alt is turning to slow to charge a low battery.
Agree with your points but my comment was about charging the battery while running, not the current required to start. I said 14V because that's an indicator that the charging system is working. I think idling counts for charging because the current to keep the battery charged is relatively low, and the system, even at idle, is still able to charge the battery. I've charged many a battery with an idling car.
 
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last time I measured the charging voltage at idle it was in the high 13s as I recall. Maybe a few tenths lower than at 4-5k RPM, but still high enough that it should charge the battery while idling. But its probably a moot point anyway, who lets their bike idle long enough that it would provide any meaningful charge to the battery? If the battery needs charging, I'm going to take the bike on a ride, or put the battery on a charger.
 
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Sorry paulch, wrong. Volts don't count much when starting, need amps. Same with cars. Ever have your lights dim at idle, alt is turning to slow to charge a low battery.
Please remember folks, if jumping from a car, do not have the car running, or try starting the car while connected to any motorcycle. Good chance of killing your charging system.
last time I measured the charging voltage at idle it was in the high 13s as I recall. Maybe a few tenths lower than at 4-5k RPM, but still high enough that it should charge the battery while idling. But its probably a moot point anyway, who lets their bike idle long enough that it would provide any meaningful charge to the battery? If the battery needs charging, I'm going to take the bike on a ride, or put the battery on a charger.
Grin, Everybody is right here. You need the proper voltage to charge your battery - a source running at 8 volts all day long connected to your bike's battery is NOT going to tickle it at all. And once you have the right voltage (I forget exactly what, but it is over 12 v) you need enough amps for a long enough period of time to replenish a depleted battery. Idling the engine will produce enough voltage to initiate the charge, but you are going to be charging it at a very slow rate. Up the rpms to the point where the alternator is putting out its rated current (amperes) and you will charge at a faster rate. This is the difference between using a trickle charger and a hefty charger that has the capability of starting a car alone or charging its battery in a couple of hours. (I am ignoring the damage high charging currents may cause by overheating the battery.)
 
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Good thoughts and advice all. Ideal charging rate(controlled by regulator) for a 12v system is 13.8-14.2v. For whatever reason, I've found motorcycle charging rate to be as high as 15.2v:eek:. If not believed, with bike running approx. 3,000rpm, hook meter across pos. and neg. batt. terminals. The ST charging sysyem doesn't seem to hit quite as high as I've seen on most scoots, but is for the most part higher than what is considered normal in the automotive world. JAT to consider;):).
 
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To summarize:

Check and clean your battery connections, at both ends.
Get your battery load tested at full charge, if fails, replace.
Clean your starter switch.
Check the other connections listed above.

Chances are your issue is within one of these four areas.

A vehicle battery at full charge is 12.7 volts. That does not necessarily mean it is good. A load test is much more definitive.
 
Joined
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To summarize:

Check and clean your battery connections, at both ends.
Get your battery load tested at full charge, if fails, replace.
Clean your starter switch.
Check the other connections listed above.

Chances are your issue is within one of these four areas.

A vehicle battery at full charge is 12.7 volts. That does not necessarily mean it is good. A load test is much more definitive.
Tottally agree, and definitely true! For example, Interstate battery in our Escape tested at 12.8v......until just ignition key was turned on, at which time that batt. voltage immediatly changed to 6v. Definitely explained why vehicle just went 'click' when trying to start. Batt. definitely had 3 shorted cells. Replaced, and all was well:). In other words, load test at the rated load test. Normal for voltage to drop to 10.5v. If it holds that 10.5v under load test for 30-45sec., batt. is still good, and re-charging batt. should resolve issue. If batt. vol. under load continues to gradually drop from the 10.5volts, replace batt. with new, as there are one or more cells shorting.
 
Last edited:

kiltman

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Good thoughts and advice all. Ideal charging rate(controlled by regulator) for a 12v system is 13.8-14.2v. For whatever reason, I've found motorcycle charging rate to be as high as 15.2v:eek:. If not believed, with bike running approx. 3,000rpm, hook meter across pos. and neg. batt. terminals. The ST charging sysyem doesn't seem to hit quite as high as I've seen on most scoots, but is for the most part higher than what is considered normal in the automotive world. JAT to consider;):).
The bikes pre 96 with 28amp alternator charge at 14.9-15.2 that is normal for those model bikes. The post 96 with 40amp alternators are in the 13.8-14.2 range
 
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