Police Control pod.

Ozzie said:

Yup, knew I'd seen it somewhere. Have the po-po given you any problems?
Now wondering if they make a modulator for LED bulbs, and if so, how much is it and how does it work? So many questions in my head......

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No problems yet, but I think it's best not to run them in other areas...4:

SDC does not, but there are others. I'm waiting for SDC. I like being in control of them!

SupraSabre said:

Oh, you mean like this: LEDs on the Right

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Nice.. is the rate of flash due to the lower voltage of the LED? Or is it a different modulator?

You said, "
SDC does not, but there are others. I'm waiting for SDC. I like being in control of them! "
You can turn off your headlights? Or turn off modulator so headlights are plain on?
Full name of SDC please?

Dave.David said:

Nice.. is the rate of flash due to the lower voltage of the LED? Or is it a different modulator?

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LEDs are Off/On, where a standard H4 is off....sort of, back on. When the non LED modulator cuts the power back for the modulation, the LED turns off, therefore the off/on effect.

An easy fix for that would be for the headlight manufacturer to put another LED in there that would stay on at a weaker strength with a extra wire that is also powering the fans so the fans don't modulate also! But since I don't make the lights, I doubt if I could get someone to make a light like that! LOL

The crazy thing is that the SDC only uses the Left headlight circuit to power the modulator and both headlights. This takes power away from the two standard headlights, making them weaker looking. You add the LEDs and they take up less power, so they come out fine for brightness. (My theory anyway...

Hmmm, I'm wondering if it would be possible to just mount a second, dimmer led in the housing? Technically your headlight would always be on..........wow, this train of thought leads to a whole area of legalize I don't even want to think about. Wonder if they make a dimmable led light for H4.....? I know you can get them for your home. That would probably solve the issue.

Dave.David said:

Full name of SDC please?

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Signal Dynamics Corporation- Follow this link.

Thank you Andrew Shadow, the link helps a lot.

I wussed out on getting the H4 led's, but I did purchase some 100/80 H4's to replace the stockers. The modulator for actual LED's is pricey, I may work a little magic and see if I can convince the company that manufactures them to cut the group a deal on a bulk purchase. I managed to work a deal with Corbin years ago, bought 10 custom seats, 35% off usual price.

Looking at this one: https://www.socalmotogear.com/product-p/p115w-d-(led).htm I like the fact that they have managed to make it so compact, looks like it will work for our needs.

Update:
Well, I went ahead and contacted the good people at Kisan, see if I could work out a deal, I actually got some stuff from them back in the 90's, to build a modulator for something, it worked well, but the market just wasn't there at the time. Let's see what I can do. Off the top of my head, I'd bite if I could get one for a buck and a quarter, maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised, and we can all benefit. One never knows unless one asks.

How do I figure out amp rating of a relay. I was at the local pick a part and snagged several minis.
Also, I have been crimping barrel crimps and the crimp that holds the bare wire is nice and tight but the insulation crimp is loose. How do I get a tight crimp on both? Different mandrel? Pro’s Kit CP-336F crimper.

cjames431 said:

How do I figure out amp rating of a relay. I was at the local pick a part and snagged several minis.
Also, I have been crimping barrel crimps and the crimp that holds the bare wire is nice and tight but the insulation crimp is loose. How do I get a tight crimp on both? Different mandrel? Pro’s Kit CP-336F crimper.

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For the relays, at least those that are Toyota OEM, the 2nd/bottom part number should be Denso. For example, that purple guy, part 567(00)-0013, comes up as a 12V/ 20A in a few searches. Using that 2nd part number in searches can often yield more results than the OEM.

^^^^
Said that wrong but I think you get what I mean.

capnkirk said:

For the relays, at least those that are Toyota OEM, the 2nd/bottom part number should be Denso. For example, that purple guy, part 567(00)-0013, comes up as a 12V/ 20A in a few searches. Using that 2nd part number in searches can often yield more results than the OEM.

^^^^
Said that wrong but I think you get what I mean.

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The Denso/Toyota appears to be a starter relay and the other is a cooling fan relay. Which I would imagine would be 20-30 amps. Which should be able to handle anything I plan on running.

cjames431 said:

How do I figure out amp rating of a relay. I was at the local pick a part and snagged several minis.
Also, I have been crimping barrel crimps and the crimp that holds the bare wire is nice and tight but the insulation crimp is loose. How do I get a tight crimp on both? Different mandrel? Pro’s Kit CP-336F crimper.

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I crimp with whatever size it takes to tighten it.

Ozzie said:

KISAN PATHBLAZER HEADLIGHT MODULATOR (FOR GL1800/GL1500)

SoCalMotoGear - A direct connect source for quality aftermarket parts, LEDs and accessories for the Cruiser and Touring Motorcycles. High Definition Motorcycle Lighting for Metrics and Cruisers. 'Riding Day or Night has never been brighter'

www.socalmotogear.com

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100% ON to about 17% OFF
designed to fail in the ON state
circuits DO NOT utilize the lo-beam
daylight sensor (detachable)

This ticks all the required boxes to be legal in CA as mandated by FMVSS 108. (Some people don't care. It's a choice.)

I'd like the option to turn the modulation off while leaving the high beam on during daylight hours. That might be possible by adding a switch to the sensor.

The Signal Dynamics Plug & Play Headlight Module does all the same but adds the ability to modulate both high and low beam (the latter not legal in CA - FMVSS tl;rl). It also has two modulation rates and connects to your horn to flash at the Max rate for 3sec. $75 net + a wiring harness maybe $15 more for the STs. Choice is good.

I've run into the same problem making the crimps, but its not always the same one that looks loose. I then take needle nose pliers and squeeze the two sides inward (for orientation, think that you put the wire in the top of the crimp connector, the opposite side is the back and the two 'wings' that get folded down are on the 'sides') and put the connector back in the tool for a second and tightening crimp. Works every time.

SupraSabre said:

I crimp with whatever size it takes to tighten it.

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Yes, yes. My thoughts exactly. (In a deep meditative type voice).