Gear shift bearing

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Hi folks, following on from my post about oil all over the place, I found the offending item which is the rubber seal and or the needle bearing to the gearbox input shaft. I can get to the gear linkage and undone the pinch bolt and just from cleaning out the muck I can see that the rubber seal would most likely come out without to much trouble. So I'm wondering how the needle bearing comes out, wondering if I have to pull the engine out and then take off the rear cover in order to press out the bearing from the inside, any feedback would be of help.
The bearing is #11 on the pic


bearing.gif
 
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thebigone
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Morning, The Dan, It could well be the issue, having taken off the linkage there is a small amount of play in the gear shaft (1mm either way) that may be normal I don't know, I will replace the rubber seal to start with and run her up if I don't have the leak any more then happy bunny, but if not then the only other course of action is to change over the bearing hence the question. thanks
 
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Hi bigone: good plan - I'd sure start with the seal and see how it goes before digging into that bearing.

Be sure to lube the seal well before driving it onto the shaft and housing. Another suggestion: if you do have to remove the engine to R&R the bearing, I'd strongly recommend replacing / rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder at the same time and checking the final drive seal & bearing as well.

Frankly, I'd be a little surprised if the bearing had failed. It isn't that heavily loaded and the gear shift shaft rotates through only a few degrees and that only when you actually shift gears.

Best of luck.
 

W0QNX

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Replace the seal. Many models of Honda's use the same or similar seal and that's the most common oil leak I know about on a Honda. I've replace several on my old Valkyries and it always stopped the leak.

Use a sharp tool like an ice pick or nail and pop it out, insert new seal. Done.
 
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+1 Ziamon.
Changed these as far back as CB750SOHC.
Try to tap it home nice and square, a deep socket should do it.
Upt'North.
 
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So I'm wondering how the needle bearing comes out, wondering if I have to pull the engine out and then take off the rear cover in order to press out the bearing from the inside, any feedback would be of help.
The bearing is #11 on the pic
bearing.gif
If the bearing needs replaced, I would imagine it would be similar to removing a pilot bearing. At least that's what it looks like on the diagram. If so, there are several "tricks" to getting the bearing out. If you google "pilot bearing removal", there are several videos that show how to remove the bearing/race with grease or wet paper. It works very well.
 
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thebigone
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Hi using the deep socket will be my intension, Rich, what the diagram don't show is the input shaft in place, sticking out through the bearing. Now I have not tried to have a go at the bearing as I have been sorting out my CS which took around 6 hrs to remove due to it being stuck good and proper, so much so that I resorted to an angle grinder to remove as much as possible then cut a number of relief cut and then knock out the remaining small part of the inner tubing. I don't know if the input shaft is a push hit into the gear box with a spline on the other end not that dissimilar to a prop shaft or half shaft on a car.
 
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I'm only guessing but some one must have had this apart who could say for definite. The shaft will not pull out, if it did what would stop it coming out during use? My guess is you'll need to pull the motor and a total strip is likely. I think you've decided to just do the seal anyway, very wise, a new supple seal could well fill the space around the shaft nicely and you'd probably be able to sleep at night!
Upt'North.
 
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thebigone
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Yer that is what I am thinking and hoping, I did wonder if the input shaft was a push fit into a cur clip type set up, but I understand your point. I'm looking at trying this week weather permitting as I don't have a garage to sit in.
 
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thebigone
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UM looking at the bottom pic I think I can see a shoulder that the bearing would sit on from the inside, it's looking more and more that if the rubber seal is not the trouble then the engine will have to come out.:(:(:(

GOT THAT WRONG LOL>>>>>>>>>>>it's the one on the left and I can make out the needle bearing, I might have to call my local steeeeeeeellers and see if a nice mechanic can answer the question.

Thanks for the pic
 
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That needle bearing is pressed in from the inside of the case. There will be a machined step in the bore to serve as a stop for the seal which is pressed in from the outside, and the bearing which is pressed from the inside. They would not have a seal pressed in and only use the bearing to stop against. I am with the others and agree that needle bearing is not very likely at all to be bad. Change the seal and Go Ride.
 
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...and BigOne - please let us all know how this works out for you.

I like the technical exchanges on this forum - except that some people get lots of good advice and then the story ends before they give a verdict on it.

Cheers,

Pete
 
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thebigone
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of course Maxpete, I am in LE as you say over there, so working shifts is not always the best thing. I have managed to get the CS off (6hr) with grinder file, hacksaw blade and new one (2nd) hand in. I'm also building a new garage so it's a go between the two. My old bike look sad sitting there naked. Along with the issue of the CS and the seal to the gear link My exhaust also needed some welding which my son is doing in SS the flang/flute part at the very end had rusted and broke off when I was removing, so the old girl is in a state...........BUT with the help and advise from the good members here she will be sorted, then I will have to see if I should sell her or NOT
 
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My money is on just the rubber seal went south on you. Remove the old seal, and press a new on in with a socket and put her close back on for goodness sakes.
 
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Was this ever resolved?

Think im having the same issue

Was part#16 all there was to it?
O-RING (18.1X3.6). 91302-MAL-601

So far, i dont see in the OM how to replace this. Im guessing i can do this by only removing the lower right Tupperware and somehow reacing in from underneath to remove the shifter linkage. Then picking out (with what, an awl or tiny screwdriver) the gasket. Replacing it, then re-assembling it all. (Do i have to empty the oil first?)
 
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I’m going to replace both O-rings:
#16: 91302-MAL-601, O-RING (18.1X3.6)
#13: 91203-KK3-830, OIL SEAL (14X22X5)

Problem is, I can’t get under there from laying on the garage floor. May have to buy the gaskets and find a shop.

F5146E8A-C4EB-44AD-B8C0-6E0375214B26.jpegF5146E8A-C4EB-44AD-B8C0-6E0375214B26.jpeg
 
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