No headlights, Hi Beam indicator always on.

Don B · Mar 14, 2018

The thread title says it all. Noticed it when I was doing my pre-ride check before leaving the house today. The high beam indicator stays on all the time the ignition is turned on, regardless of the dimmer switch position. I don't have any headlights, high or low beam. I know that I have seen similar problems posted here before, not sure if I have seen the exact same thing posted or not.
I know that for starters, I need to use some contact cleaner on the starter switch, since that may account for having no headlights at all, but I don't know how this might account for the indicator staying on all the time. The indicator does go off while the starter button is depressed. I'm also aware that I should check the headlight relays.
Is there anything that I'm missing?

dduelin · Mar 14, 2018

Dollar to a doughnut you have a bad ground in one of three places; the left headlight wiring, the yellow ground bus above the right hand headlight, or where the green wire passes through the 24 pin connector on the outside of the frame above the left cylinder head. The always-on high beam light indicates the ground for a device in the front half of the bike is finding a path to ground through that circuit.

Search ground wire issues and fixes. It's not uncommon to the ST1300. Here is a start, don't worry about symptoms of lights on or off as ground faults manifest in all sorts of weird electrical device behavior. I'd start reading around post #40 in the first thread below.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?98008-Lights-stay-on-when-ignition-switch-in-Off-bike-won-t-start/page10

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?124335-Fixed-my-electrical-problem-(headlights-dash-lites-horn-turn-signals-windshield)&highlight=

ST Gui · Mar 14, 2018

dduelin said:
Dollar to a doughnut you have a bad ground in one of three places

I've book marked this post and am going to make myself a little list of what to check and the links. It could happen to me!

Don B said:
I need to use some contact cleaner on the starter switch, since that may account for having no headlights at all

As you know that you may already know to find plastic-compatible contact cleaner. And if that does the trick some disassembly (there are no compressed springs or flying bits) with a thorough cleaning and lubing (a schmear of dielectric grease?) would also be a good idea. (I have to do that to my turn signal switch.)

Don B · Mar 17, 2018

ST Gui said:
Quote Originally Posted by Don B
I need to use some contact cleaner on the starter switch, since that may account for having no headlights at all
As you know that you may already know to find plastic-compatible contact cleaner. And if that does the trick some disassembly (there are no compressed springs or flying bits) with a thorough cleaning and lubing (a schmear of dielectric grease?) would also be a good idea. (I have to do that to my turn signal switch.)

I've confirmed that the starter switch is the source of my problem. I've applied a few short blasts of chemicals that I had in my garage/shop, and they have fixed the problem, but only temporarily, then it has resurfaced. That is likely because I didn't have the proper electrical contact cleaner in the "shop" and tried substituting alternatives, so I have come to the conclusion that I'll need to disassemble the switch pod to clean it up properly. I've never done that before, so had to use a mirror this evening to locate the screws that hold the halves of the pod together. Since I celebrated Saint Patty's day this afternoon, I haven't yet attempted the task beyond locating the screws. That will have to wait a day or two, depending on what comes up tomorrow. Do you happen to know if the pod halves can be separated without disturbing the throttle grip or cables? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Don B.

ST Gui · Mar 18, 2018

It's been a long time since I've pulled one of those assemblies apart. Did it on my Interceptor and Sabre but not on the ST but they may be very similar.

IIRC you can remove both screws (one is longer than the other so keep an eye out) and then spread the halves enough to clean the workings. Probably just pull the lower half from the bar and not bother with the upper part.

Also note there is a pin in the lower half that fits back into a hole in the handlebar to keep the control pod from rotating. Make sure to get that seated properly when reassembling.

You should be able to see if it's just gunk that got loosened with your quick-clean and settled back to interfere or if there is some broken bit. Carefully clean it out with a Q-tip and add some dielectric grease to keep is moving smoothly.

Hueyf4i · Mar 18, 2018

Check out the plug where your wires come into the back of your headlights. My left low beam would cut out intermittently and the high beam indicator would come on. My plastic harness on that bulb had partially melted and the ground wire was just sitting in the plastic connector loosely. . .replaced the connector and haven't had an issue since. . .
I obviously didn't read the later posts. Good luck with your switch assembly!

ST Gui · Mar 18, 2018

Hueyf4i said:
My plastic harness on that bulb had partially melted and the ground wire was just sitting in the plastic connector loosely. . .replaced the connector and haven't had an issue since. . .

Where you running the factory bulbs 45/45W bulbs? The wattage isn't usually mentioned so I'm wondering if 55/60W bulbs are part of it or if it's just the result of aging contacts increasing resistance.

Hueyf4i · Mar 18, 2018

ST Gui said:
Where you running the factory bulbs 45/45W bulbs? The wattage isn't usually mentioned so I'm wondering if 55/60W bulbs are part of it or if it's just the result of aging contacts increasing resistance.

Mine where the stock bulbs. . .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

ST Gui · Mar 18, 2018

Hueyf4i said:
Mine where the stock bulbs. . .

Thanks for the info. It there's a problem with stock bulbs (assuming no other heavy-duty farkles) then the 55/65W bulbs could/would make it worse.

A pro-active 'fix' is easier than a reactive fix.

Hueyf4i · Mar 18, 2018

ST Gui said:
Thanks for the info. It there's a problem with stock bulbs (assuming no other heavy-duty farkles) then the 55/65W bulbs could/would make it worse.

A pro-active 'fix' is easier than a reactive fix.

No headlight mods prior to the connector issue. . . .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Don B · Mar 27, 2018

dduelin said:
Dollar to a doughnut you have a bad ground in one of three places; the left headlight wiring, the yellow ground bus above the right hand headlight, or where the green wire passes through the 24 pin connector on the outside of the frame above the left cylinder head. The always-on high beam light indicates the ground for a device in the front half of the bike is finding a path to ground through that circuit.

Search ground wire issues and fixes. It's not uncommon to the ST1300. Here is a start, don't worry about symptoms of lights on or off as ground faults manifest in all sorts of weird electrical device behavior. I'd start reading around post #40 in the first thread below.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?98008-Lights-stay-on-when-ignition-switch-in-Off-bike-won-t-start/page10

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?124335-Fixed-my-electrical-problem-(headlights-dash-lites-horn-turn-signals-windshield)&highlight=

Dave, I have now confirmed that my problem is neither the the starter nor hi/lo switch.I think I will move on to the 26 pin ground wire that you suggested in one of your threads. Checking the two headlight relays would be the next logical step, except that I think the ground problem is more likely to be the problem, and it is probably easier to remove the Tupperware to get to the connector than removing the relays to check them out. I say that because I have done that before, and know that it is a real PITA.

Don B · Oct 31, 2018

ST Gui said:
I've book marked this post and am going to make myself a little list of what to check and the links. It could happen to me!

As you know that you may already know to find plastic-compatible contact cleaner. And if that does the trick some disassembly (there are no compressed springs or flying bits) with a thorough cleaning and lubing (a schmear of dielectric grease?) would also be a good idea. (I have to do that to my turn signal switch.)

OK, I finally got the headlights ALL working and passed the safety inspection so I can renew the registration next month for another year, but I still have another question for the experts out there. I went back to the starter and dimmer switches again and removed the screws to split the shells before spraying a shot of CRC contact cleaner into them. I then gave the dimmer switch innards a quick shot of silicone spray after the cleaner had dried, as Igofar had suggested. I did all this while I had the LH middle cowling removed, which I had to do to finish replacement of the burned out Halogen headlamp. While I was there, I sprayed some of the cleaner on the front, back, top and bottom of the 24-pin connector with the intention of pulling it apart to thoroughly clean it and apply dielectric grease before reassembling it. I have seen this suggestion many times in this forum, and a couple of Knowledgeable friends here in Alief told me the same thing. Actually, I already knew that, but sometimes neglect to do it. In any case, I haven't done it yet, because I haven't been able to get the connector apart. Incidentally, none of what I did gave me an immediate fix for the headlight problem, so just when I was really getting frustrated they started working and haven't failed me since. I have to assume that after an hour or two the cleaner migrated into the switch innards and wire strands and did what I needed from them. My question now is "How do I get this connector apart?" I assumed that the connector would separate by squeezing one end or the other of the tab in the center and pulling it apart, but that doesn't work, or at least it hasn't yet. Maybe I need to eat a better breakfast. or what?

dduelin · Oct 31, 2018

Don B said:
OK, I finally got the headlights ALL working and passed the safety inspection so I can renew the registration next month for another year, but I still have another question for the experts out there. I went back to the starter and dimmer switches again and removed the screws to split the shells before spraying a shot of CRC contact cleaner into them. I then gave the dimmer switch innards a quick shot of silicone spray after the cleaner had dried, as Igofar had suggested. I did all this while I had the LH middle cowling removed, which I had to do to finish replacement of the burned out Halogen headlamp. While I was there, I sprayed some of the cleaner on the front, back, top and bottom of the 24-pin connector with the intention of pulling it apart to thoroughly clean it and apply dielectric grease before reassembling it. I have seen this suggestion many times in this forum, and a couple of Knowledgeable friends here in Alief told me the same thing. Actually, I already knew that, but sometimes neglect to do it. In any case, I haven't done it yet, because I haven't been able to get the connector apart. Incidentally, none of what I did gave me an immediate fix for the headlight problem, so just when I was really getting frustrated they started working and haven't failed me since. I have to assume that after an hour or two the cleaner migrated into the switch innards and wire strands and did what I needed from them. My question now is "How do I get this connector apart?" I assumed that the connector would separate by squeezing one end or the other of the tab in the center and pulling it apart, but that doesn't work, or at least it hasn't yet. Maybe I need to eat a better breakfast. or what?

Get into your Wheaties and press the tab projecting to the right.

Don B · Nov 1, 2018

I'll give it another try after breakfast. I was slightly tempted to follow the rule some folks go by who subscribe to the theory that "if it ain't broke don't fix it", but as a good friend pointed out, it will result in problems resulting from corrosion if I neglect to do it right. I know as sure as I'm sitting here that if I put the Tupperware back on tomorrow, Murphy's law would come into play and the lights would very likely fail again within a couple of months.

playfair · Nov 1, 2018

I believe one of the fixes for the bad ground in that connector (lower left green/silv?) is to add a jumper across the connector, relieving the electrical strain on a possibly already pitted pin. Could be an option if it's really stuck!

No headlights, Hi Beam indicator always on.

Don B

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

ST Gui

240Robert

Don B

ST Gui

240Robert

Hueyf4i

ST Gui

240Robert

Hueyf4i

ST Gui

240Robert

Hueyf4i

Don B

Don B

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

Don B

playfair