Timing belt replacement simplified

ST1100 Timing Belt Replacement
< http://johnandbecci.info/Hints/Timing_belt.htm >
By: Martin Brunner
STOC# 637 PanEuro# 42
martin.brunner@webcity.at
Vienna, AuSTria, Europe

Great advice with some clarity and cussing added by me, Carl Custer.

CC: Parts ordered: May 08 prices:
<http://www.discounthondaparts.com/fiche_select.asp?vcc=Motorcycles>
BELT, TIMING 14401-MT3-004 001 $78.95
GSKT, SLAVE CYLINDER (22862-MW7-650) $3.07
GASKET, RR. MUFFLER (18392-MJ4-670) $8.50
GASKET, EX. PIPE (18291-MT3-000) $2.93
GASKET, TIMING COVER 11554-MT3-003 001 $2.07
Parts needed:
BELT, TIMING 14401-MT3-004 001 $78.95


Disassembly

1. Remove Saddlebags
2. Remove Seat
3. Remove Side Covers
4. Remove Belly Pan
5. Remove Grey side fairings (the ones with the pockets)
6. Remove Lower fairings including the tip wing covers
7. Pull the speedo cable from wheel-drive (Philips bolt)
8. Remove the U-shaped fairing below headlight & around radiator inlet
9. Drain radiator at it's plug (goes faster with cap off)
10. Remove the horn

CC: Jack Smith suggested: ?As far as fairing removal goes, you pull the gray stuff - belly pan, fairing inners, windshield/garnish assembly, and the little panels over the valve covers. After that, pull the 10mm bolts, I think 4 on each side, and the whole fairing will slide right off of the rubber mounted posts beside the headlight assembly.?

11. Remove the hose clamps from radiator/hoses
11.a CC: Remove right pocket (to access top hose and ^%$#@ radiator cap)
12. Remove the 2 M6 bolts holding the radiator on its top (getting it out requires a bit of fiddling, its bottom is sited with a dot into a rubber in the frame) (CC: Dot hell, it?s a %$#@ 1 cm pin.)
13. Remove the 2 silver covers in front of the valve covers (2 hex bolts each)
13a. Remove left side pocket to access the spark plugs.
14. Remove the spark plugs
15. Remove the two upper T-belt housing covers up on the heads
16. The larger middle timing belt cover gets a bit tricky since it's somehow fixed with the clutch-cover (doing it right would require one to remove/open the clutch cover as well). Normally, it can be removed without loosening the clutch cover (requires some patience).
17. After the first time, the cover can be modified with a knife or a Dremel tool to make installation and subsequent removal quite a bit easier. It normally gets hung up on the crank-pulley bolt. Some silicone grease on the seals will also help.
18. After all of this is done, the T-belt is now fully accessible

CC: See photos 6-12 seq at: <http://picasaweb.google.com/carl.custer/MCStuff>

Remove the old Timing Belt

1. Note that the crank-pulley and the 2 cam-pulleys are marked. The c/pulleys have lines (not dots, the lines are the marks) and the crank-pulley a mark for #1 TDC (top dead center). All three of the pulley marks have opposites on the housing (little arrows).

CC: See photos 9-12 at: <http://picasaweb.google.com/carl.custer/MCStuff>

2. Using a 17mm ratchet, turn the crank pulley (in the engine's normal direction) till all three are matching their respective housing marks. Be sure to check this very carefully. Double check to be really sure!

CC: Engine rotation arrow is on the engine.

3. Don't move any of the pulleys during the following work stages

4. Remove the "guide-disc" from the LHS cam-pulley (12mm nut). Don't move the pulleys from the marks!

5. Identify the spanner pulley; it's located almost fully on the RHS (riding direction) and has a base with a spring. Loosen its center-bolt and push it downward to clear the T-belt from tensioner, leave it there. It would be best to replace it together with the T-belt, but that's just an opinion).

6. The T-belt can now be carefully removed. Some fiddling will be needed around the crank-pulley, but it's ok. Wash your hands before opening the packing of the new T-belt. Oil and antifreeze are bad for the belt.

Install the new Timing Belt

1. Get it onto the crank-pulley
2. Over the LHS cam-pulley
3. Over the middle guide roll
4. Over the RHS cam-pulley
5. Check now carefully to see if both cam-pulleys are still matching the marks, it?s easy to get it wrong by 1 sprocket (CC: Amen or even one tooth :^)
6. Over the spanner pulley
7. Be sure the T-belt is correctly aligned, be sure that all the marks are still aligned. If you are absolutely sure, then loosen the bolt for the spanner pulley and let it snap onto the T-belt. Torque the bolt to 40NM.
CC: Honda Manual recommends turning the engine over twice to ?Settle the new belt?. Then check all the guide marks, then tighten up to bolts.
8. Replace the guide disc on LHS cam-pulley, torque to 27NM
9. Finally, put it back together in reverse order
10. When ready and fully nervous to see if it will start, leave the "kill" switch in OFF position for 2 starter cranks, just in case. If something is wrong, hopefully it will cause less damage.

CC: Newer St?s will not crank with the ?kill switch? off.
Hope this is useful.

Carl,
Nice writeup, thanks! I'm fortunate that the PO did this work a few thousand miles before I bought the bike, but it sounds like the biggest part of the job is just getting there!

Hi Carl,

Nice write-up... and congratulations!

To add to the general info for those considering doing this procedure on their ST1100, here's my pictures with captions from my timing belt R&R:

http://community.webshots.com/album/458881094RXObYm

and here's my report to the old ST1100 LiST listserv with some tips and links to more pictures/info, FWIW:

~~~~~~~ Timing Belt R&R tips-JOosterhuis.txt ~~~~~~~~

Subject:Timing Belt R&R Report
Date:9/30/2005 12:29:02 AM Central Daylight Time
From:STGhOOST
Reply To:
To:st1100@st1100.com
<other CC addressees snipped>

--
OK, so I'm a little behind on the followup to posting of my timing belt R&R pictures. Pictures here for those who missed that:

http://community.webshots.com/album/458881094RXObYm

I'm not going to do a step-by-step here. Just some notes, comments, tips, etc.

- I use both Honda and Haynes manuals. Almost always prefer the Honda but the Haynes' pictures are often nice.

- Here's a couple of nice sites with timing belt pictures with captions/info that I used/referenced:

Adam Koczarski:
http://koczarski.com/ST1100/TimingBelt/TimingBelt.htm
Dan DiGiacomo:
http://community.webshots.com/album/51371359TIGyPM

- Also very helpful was my long-time E-correspondent, Martin (Mr. OEM/By-The-Book) Brunner's old write-up that I copied from the LiST when he poSTed it, but which is also located here:

http://www.st1100.org/HTbike/Timing_belt.htm

- plus a few LiST clips and pictures collected over the years. THANKS everyone!

- Having already done a valve shim change helped with the confidence to tackle this major (for me) job, and also with knowledge of the crank/timing belt/cam-pullys/valves interaction in normal operation.

- I didn't remove the upper fairing. Removing the Middle Fairing Inner Cover is much easier if you remove one of the headlight bolts:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1458813385046406262qUjXZc

Even then, it's pretty hard to see the marks on the Drive (crank) Pully. If you have some other maintenance to do that requires removing the front fender and/or wheel, it would be a good idea to do the timing belt R&R at the same time.

- My left Driven Pully Bolt was on really tight. Scared me a bit with how much effort it took to loosen it, and when it finally 'broke' loose!

- To make it easier to see the alignment markings, I used a Scripto marker on the Driven Pullys and white grease pencil on the Drive Pully (see my Webshots album).

- You don't have to drain the oil and remove the muffler and clutch cover to get the timing belt cover off. You don't even have to loosen the nearest clutch cover bolts as some folks have mentioned in the past. I didn't even use a screwdriver to help pry it out, I just pulled the top part of the cover out a bit from the engine and pulled the whole thing straight up and out. To make it easier to reinstall, you really need to trim only the inside lower lip/rib of the crank pully access hole a bit so it can clear the Drive (crank) Pully Bolt head.

- To take the tension off the old timing belt so it can be removed, both manuals call for holding the right Driven Pully while turning the Drive (crank) Pully counterclockwise to move the Tensioner Roller down against its spring tension. When I did this the old belt slipped two or three teeth on the Drive Pully! =8^O As I already had the crank and valves at the T1 (#1 cyl TDC) position with the Driven Pullys and Drive Pully marks lined up correctly, I rotated the crank 2 full turns until the Driven Pully marks were aligned again, pulled the timing belt, and then rotated the Drive Pully to its marks. I confirmed this by watching a screwdriver bob up and down in the the #1 cyl sparkplug hole until it was at TDC, corresponding to the mark on the Drive Pully. To make absolutely sure, I pulled both valve covers and confirmed the correct alignment with the marks on the ends of the camshafts. [see the line drawings in the Honda Service Manual] Lesson to pass on? -- push the Tensioner Roller down by hand.

- Here's a good tip, I think: before I pulled the old belt, I counted the teeth between the Driven Pully marks: 51 teeth. BTW, my old belt looked just fine after 15 years (10/90 manf date) and 90K.

- A needlenose pliers helped get the old belt off/out of the Drive Pully recess.

- The new belt was put on in this sequence: Drive Pully, water pump pully, left Driven Pully, Idle Pully (and exactly 51 teeth to the) right Driven Pully, and Tensioner Roller. When the Tensioner Bolt was loosened, all the marks lined up perfectly. And they still did after the 2 to 4 rotations of the crank called for in the manual.

- Follow the manual's instructions for setting a new belt's tension correctly by rotating past the T1 mark another three teeth (measured at the right Driven Pully) before tightening the Tensioner Bolt to the spec'd torque. I think this has something to do with optimal valve spring pressure/tension on the cams/Driven Pullys and hence, timing belt tension.
[edit: see the next poST for a better explanation]

- Mark the left Driven Pully Guide when you reinstall it so you know where the alignment mark under it is located as you rotate the crank with the new belt installed.

That's all that comes to mind and from my notes. Use the manual(s), work slowly and carefully and you'll be just fine. And remember, help is only a few keystrokes away if something goes awry like did for me when my old belt slipped. [thanks LiST!... Whew!]

A special thanks to LiSTer Danny Thomas who road-tripped down to Iowa from St Paul with his lovely wife Becky to help me. Much appreciated, my friend!

Regards, John OoSTerhuis STOC 1058

http://community.webshots.com/user/stghoost
http://community.webshots.com/user/st1100greyghoost
http://community.webshots.com/user/stoc1058
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PS Here's something else from my archives that explains the timing belt tensioning procedure and why it should be followed, better than I can (thanks, Tim!):

~~~~~~~~~ Timing Belt Tensioning-TShevlin.txt ~~~~~~~~

On 4 Apr 2007, Don da Roza, STOC 5230, asked about the tensioning procedure while installing a new timing belt in an ST1100 (snip):

<< After rotating the main drive gear a couple of times the manual*states to rotate another 3 teeth past the timing mark for a new belt to set it. (Page 8-13 in my '91 factory manual) I can't seem to picture how that makes any difference as to where the mark is when you tighten up the tensioner pulley. >>

To which Tim Shevlin, STOC 1183, replied:

Don, my manual is not handy here at work, but I believe that by
turning the engine, slack in the belt between the crank gear and cam
drive gears is taken up, and is shifted to the trailing, non-drive
part of the belt where application of idler tension removes it. If
this slack were allowed to remain on the drive side or between cam
banks, I suspect that the release of idler spring tension would be
insufficient to rotate the cams the very slight amount necessary to
take up the slack, thus the belt would run loose. Note that because
the idler is locked in place, it is designed not to apply constant
tension (as in a cam chain-equipped engine) but only to apply initial
tension to a new belt. After some run time, the new belt probably
runs without tension but with little or no slack for the rest of its
life.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

See the photos in this link as well for modifying the cover so it goes back in easily.

http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/25613.html#POST41043

John OoSTerhuis said:

PS Here's something else from my archives that explains the timing belt tensioning procedure and why it should be followed, better than I can (thanks, Tim!):

~~~~~~~~~ Timing Belt Tensioning-TShevlin.txt ~~~~~~~~

On 4 Apr 2007, Don da Roza, STOC 5230, asked about the tensioning procedure while installing a new timing belt in an ST1100 (snip):

<< After rotating the main drive gear a couple of times the manual*states to rotate another 3 teeth past the timing mark for a new belt to set it. (Page 8-13 in my '91 factory manual) I can't seem to picture how that makes any difference as to where the mark is when you tighten up the tensioner pulley. >>

To which Tim Shevlin, STOC 1183, replied:

Don, my manual is not handy here at work, but I believe that by
turning the engine, slack in the belt between the crank gear and cam
drive gears is taken up, and is shifted to the trailing, non-drive
part of the belt where application of idler tension removes it. If
this slack were allowed to remain on the drive side or between cam
banks, I suspect that the release of idler spring tension would be
insufficient to rotate the cams the very slight amount necessary to
take up the slack, thus the belt would run loose. Note that because
the idler is locked in place, it is designed not to apply constant
tension (as in a cam chain-equipped engine) but only to apply initial
tension to a new belt. After some run time, the new belt probably
runs without tension but with little or no slack for the rest of its
life.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Click to expand...

When I changed the timing belt on my daughter's Civic, the exact same "rotate the cam 3 teeth then tighten the idler pulley" procedure is required as well. If it does anything it's pretty hard to tell visually. I think I probably had the slack out already when I stopped rotating the cam at the index mark. I performed this procedure as instructed both on ST1100 and Megan's Civic and there have been no issues.

It may have something to do with cam position and the forces that are applied to the cam by the valve springs and followers. By positioning the cam in a certain way, they may be using the torque applied to the cam by the springs and followers to help with the final tensioning and positioning.

Just a thought.

Martin_b said:

It may have something to do with cam position and the forces that are applied to the cam by the valve springs and followers. By positioning the cam in a certain way, they may be using the torque applied to the cam by the springs and followers to help with the final tensioning and positioning.

Just a thought.

Click to expand...

It's a good thought Martin and it was one I had in mind except that the Civic is a completely different engine design I-4 as opposed to a V-4 and has the same instructions. Would the cam tension thing work out the same way for such different engine configurations?

The Haynes manual I have also mentions doing the three tooth thing as well.

wjbertrand said:

It's a good thought Martin and it was one I had in mind except that the Civic is a completely different engine design I-4 as opposed to a V-4 and has the same instructions. Would the cam tension thing work out the same way for such different engine configurations?

Click to expand...

Methinks it just might. 'Depends upon what the other bank is doing at the same position. 'Might be that both banks would be in that position.

In any case, I followed the manual to the letter also.