Attached PDF's are expanded from the set-up instructions diagram for a 2007 ABS but should be the same for all ST1300's. (Somebody link this for me Please) Thanks.
Starting with the run/stop mods (see before/after pics). These wires can be accessed in the sleeved harness coming down the right handlebar and going to the red connector under the right side tupperware. Cut the BL/W wire on the switch side of the factory splice, You are going to have to dig for it in the sleeved part of the harness. I found it pretty far down closer to the connector but it could be anywhere in this harness. It may even be in the sw housing. If you don't isolate this splice the start button will try to draw power from the DGD unit when the start button is pressed and could damage the unit. This is the only speed bump with the run/stop connection instructions as listed in the install manual. You will be simply isolating the on/off part of the run/stop switch for the DGD to use as a on/off control for Ignition power.
For the ignition switch mods you have the option of connecting the DGD as a piggyback device or giving it all control over ignition. If you piggyback it you can still start the bike with the ign sw but you will also have to stop the bike with the ign sw. If the Ign sw is on the run/stop sw will not stop the bike as it will be bypassed. I disconnected the battery feed to my ign sw giving all control to the DGD. However I also made all my connections near the fuse box and used a terminal strip for the ign sw wiring giving me the capability to move the source wire and use the ign sw if the need should arise.
For connections at/near the Ign sw the hookup is as follows: The Red/Black from the DGD will get connected to the Bu/O and the R/Bl in the Ign harness. The Red/Gray from the DGD gets connected to the R/W in the Ign harness. Both the Red and the Brown wires from the DGD will be connected to the battery (Red) wire in the bike harness, This is also the wire you will use to de-activate the Ign sw if you want, simply do not reconnect to the sw side if you do not want to use the key at all or do reconnect if you want to piggyback the DGD with the sw. The Red wire in the bike harness is the source wire from the battery and is protected with a 30A fuse (see pic) on the right side of the bike in the distribution block just aft of the battery, It would be a good idea to pull this fuse during the install.
You can also make the Ign sw connections near the fuse box but this will be far more complicated and you will have to cut into much more wiring. Do yourself a favor and make the connections at or near the Ign sw harness. If you do this in the fuse box area be sure to connect on the supply side of the fuses and not the load side. I did mine this way because of some additional wiring I was doing at the same time and my connection points are actually in the wrapped part of the harness under the seat. Make sure you get fuses A,B,D,E,& F in circuit and keep in mind these 2 things: #1- fuse C is not part of the Ign circuit, If you connect this fuse you will keep everything hot all the time and may damage the wiring. #2-fuse F is the acc. fuse and will need to be isolated if you want to turn it on and off with the acc. sw supplied with the DGD. I can't recomend this fuse box installation unless you have a strong electrical background as it would be very easy to overload a circuit or even leave something important out simply because of the representation of the circuit in the Honda diagram, The diagram is accurate "electrically" but not graphically... I.E.-The splice to the left of fuse E (see pic) is nowhere near the fuse box, it is in the harness somewhere. I never found it even with most of the harness cut open under the seat but it checks out with a meter. The splices can be anywhere in the harness and are only drawn the way they are in the diagrams for electrical accuracy not for location.
As for mounting locations, I simply ty-wrapped the DGD unit to the harness in the tail near the ECM. For most installations the location will probably be somewhere in the front. The DGD unit is small and should fit just about anywhere without any issues. Mine is in the rear just because thats where I made most of my connections and as I said before I was doing some other wiring changes and additions anyway.
I hope this helps everyone with the DGD-KIM, The DGD-M1 is a simple starter relay replacement I think and should be straight forward. I've only included pics of the wiring diagrams involved in the install, mostly because I didn't take any pics during the install on my bike. If anyone has any Q's just PM me and I'll do whatever I can to help, If anyone is in my area (Just south of Memphis) and needs help with anything on these bikes I would be happy to help....
Also, feedback on this thread would be appreciated... Pos, Neg, guy's full of crap, etc...
Good luck and happy motoring....
Starting with the run/stop mods (see before/after pics). These wires can be accessed in the sleeved harness coming down the right handlebar and going to the red connector under the right side tupperware. Cut the BL/W wire on the switch side of the factory splice, You are going to have to dig for it in the sleeved part of the harness. I found it pretty far down closer to the connector but it could be anywhere in this harness. It may even be in the sw housing. If you don't isolate this splice the start button will try to draw power from the DGD unit when the start button is pressed and could damage the unit. This is the only speed bump with the run/stop connection instructions as listed in the install manual. You will be simply isolating the on/off part of the run/stop switch for the DGD to use as a on/off control for Ignition power.
For the ignition switch mods you have the option of connecting the DGD as a piggyback device or giving it all control over ignition. If you piggyback it you can still start the bike with the ign sw but you will also have to stop the bike with the ign sw. If the Ign sw is on the run/stop sw will not stop the bike as it will be bypassed. I disconnected the battery feed to my ign sw giving all control to the DGD. However I also made all my connections near the fuse box and used a terminal strip for the ign sw wiring giving me the capability to move the source wire and use the ign sw if the need should arise.
For connections at/near the Ign sw the hookup is as follows: The Red/Black from the DGD will get connected to the Bu/O and the R/Bl in the Ign harness. The Red/Gray from the DGD gets connected to the R/W in the Ign harness. Both the Red and the Brown wires from the DGD will be connected to the battery (Red) wire in the bike harness, This is also the wire you will use to de-activate the Ign sw if you want, simply do not reconnect to the sw side if you do not want to use the key at all or do reconnect if you want to piggyback the DGD with the sw. The Red wire in the bike harness is the source wire from the battery and is protected with a 30A fuse (see pic) on the right side of the bike in the distribution block just aft of the battery, It would be a good idea to pull this fuse during the install.
You can also make the Ign sw connections near the fuse box but this will be far more complicated and you will have to cut into much more wiring. Do yourself a favor and make the connections at or near the Ign sw harness. If you do this in the fuse box area be sure to connect on the supply side of the fuses and not the load side. I did mine this way because of some additional wiring I was doing at the same time and my connection points are actually in the wrapped part of the harness under the seat. Make sure you get fuses A,B,D,E,& F in circuit and keep in mind these 2 things: #1- fuse C is not part of the Ign circuit, If you connect this fuse you will keep everything hot all the time and may damage the wiring. #2-fuse F is the acc. fuse and will need to be isolated if you want to turn it on and off with the acc. sw supplied with the DGD. I can't recomend this fuse box installation unless you have a strong electrical background as it would be very easy to overload a circuit or even leave something important out simply because of the representation of the circuit in the Honda diagram, The diagram is accurate "electrically" but not graphically... I.E.-The splice to the left of fuse E (see pic) is nowhere near the fuse box, it is in the harness somewhere. I never found it even with most of the harness cut open under the seat but it checks out with a meter. The splices can be anywhere in the harness and are only drawn the way they are in the diagrams for electrical accuracy not for location.
As for mounting locations, I simply ty-wrapped the DGD unit to the harness in the tail near the ECM. For most installations the location will probably be somewhere in the front. The DGD unit is small and should fit just about anywhere without any issues. Mine is in the rear just because thats where I made most of my connections and as I said before I was doing some other wiring changes and additions anyway.
I hope this helps everyone with the DGD-KIM, The DGD-M1 is a simple starter relay replacement I think and should be straight forward. I've only included pics of the wiring diagrams involved in the install, mostly because I didn't take any pics during the install on my bike. If anyone has any Q's just PM me and I'll do whatever I can to help, If anyone is in my area (Just south of Memphis) and needs help with anything on these bikes I would be happy to help....
Also, feedback on this thread would be appreciated... Pos, Neg, guy's full of crap, etc...
Good luck and happy motoring....
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