Replacing a headlight bulb-ST1100

I know it has been beat to death by people with far more knowledge then I but here goes........
I replaced the factory headlight buld 45/45 with an H4/9003 and it worked with little effort on my part. I am not a mechanic but i'm not an idiot either. After reading ALL the previous entries related to this subject I dove in head first and attempted this transition myself.
I have very large hands and forearms and YES, it is very tight and you will get scraped a little.
WITHOUT using the adapter that most suggest to use it simply bent the lower tabs up and slid the bulb into place (patience is the key). Putting the clip back on wasn't as bad as i thought it would be either.
Total time it took was 30 minutes (5-10 of those minutes were spent cursing about what a bad idea this was).
BUT, if i can do it anyone can. Its true, the nightime difference is better. A wider path and marginally longer beam but still better then the factory.
Hope this helps those of you considering making the change.

Re: Replacing a headlight buld

Thanks Jeff

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

jeffphillips911 said:

I know it has been beat to death by people with far more knowledge then I but here goes........
I replaced the factory headlight buld 45/45 with an H4/9003 and it worked with little effort on my part. I am not a mechanic but i'm not an idiot either. After reading ALL the previous entries related to this subject I dove in head first and attempted this transition myself.
I have very large hands and forearms and YES, it is very tight and you will get scraped a little.
WITHOUT using the adapter that most suggest to use it simply bent the lower tabs up and slid the bulb into place (patience is the key). Putting the clip back on wasn't as bad as i thought it would be either.
Total time it took was 30 minutes (5-10 of those minutes were spent cursing about what a bad idea this was).
BUT, if i can do it anyone can. Its true, the nightime difference is better. A wider path and marginally longer beam but still better then the factory.
Hope this helps those of you considering making the change.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. What was the brand name bulb that you used?

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

Everything I have read says the adapter ring is mandatory for the 1100 H4 install.

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

Well, I probably read all the same posts as you did but i'm here to tell you that you do not need the adapter to make it fit properly and it works fine.

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

The main purpose of the adapter rings is to make sure the bulb it properly seated and aligned in the housing. With patience, you can do it without the rings (but I use the rings myself). On the ST1300 (from what has been said), the bulb seat is flat all the way so you definitely don't need the rings. What is so strange is that the European model headlight and the UK model headlight accepts the H4s normally. The whole deal goes back to the position of the tabs that position the bulb in the fixture. Go figure ...

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

Great info..I just spent over an hour this past week changing a bulb. I am pretty sure I can do it now in about three minutes. I considered ordering the rings but now I may alter that thought. Thanks for the info.

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

I have a set of GE 9003's laying here on my desk. Was waiting for time to change to put them in which means I will be driving to and from work in the dark. I put a set of PIAA's on the forks last winter but would like better lights. There are times when in towns that I don't like to run the PIAA's. I guess I need to go ahead and put them in.

Re: Replacing a headlight bulb

I used the shims too. I put in PIAA H4 Extreme Whites. It took me about 15 minutes to replace the OEM bulbs. I reached down through from the top. I guess my hands are small enough. Just moved the handlebars to one side and reached down from the top. It was pretty easy and you could see what you were doing.

I did the coat hanger trick myself when I switched to Silverstars. It takes time as well but it seems to work well. I have been meaning to order up some shims. I did the hanger trick because I replaced the bulbs when one of my low beams went out. I didn't like riding around with one light so I didn't want to wait until the shims would arrive. I have been meaning to order the shims so I have them when I need to do bulbs again or for the next time I open up the front. If I get them I will probably loose them by the time I can install them.

Unbelievable!

I'd replaced my bulbs w/o the shims too and it took some extra time to get them in just right! One side took most of the time...grr...till I got it to seat ok. For what ever reason, it was the 2nd bulb that took the most time. Then I ordered the shims and while you really don't need them, they made the "fiddle till they fit right" part of the operation go away!! It was a snap with the shims and yes the bulbs were more evenly aligned than w/o...

Love my faSTeST black ST1100!!!

Well, I finally got to mine again this weekend... and I don't know what is wrong, there is something going on with my plug.. the bulb is not making good contact.. ( I have an aftermarket with the tabs cut off ) I took it all apart and inspected it. got it back seated properly with the clip, and it works a while, then it quits (after vibrating around some ) still gonna mess with it, but I may need someone else to look at it... I didnt clean any of the plug contacts when I had it apart, guess I should have ..

KEITH - You might try some dielectric grease on the contacts to see if that helps.

thanks U.P. , I am going to have to try something...my bulb is fine, I just hate driving around without the left one on all the time..

( I thought a cop was going to write me up for it the other day)

It has long been my understanding that the shims are needed to position the aftermarket bulbs' filaments in the same place (depth if you will) within the OEM reflectors as the OEM bulbs' filaments - and thereby maximize the light output/performance.

Easy enough to check - do a side-by-side comparo of the bulbs and measure.

FWIW YMMV yada yada

Regards, John [HID in the right side, PIAA 910s under the mirrors]

John OoSTerhuis said:

It has long been my understanding that the shims are needed to position the aftermarket bulbs' filaments in the same place (depth if you will) within the OEM reflectors as the OEM bulbs' filaments - and thereby maximize the light output/performance.

Easy enough to check - do a side-by-side comparo of the bulbs and measure.

FWIW YMMV yada yada

Regards, John [HID in the right side, PIAA 910s under the mirrors]

Click to expand...

I compared the H4 bulbs and the PIAA's were about a 1mm longer past the seat point than the OEMs. So with the shim in place it positions the replacement bulbs like the OEMs as well as providing the two lower tabs.

?Question Jeff. Did you go in from the top or the bottom? Seems to make a difference for the 'big hand people'. I go from the bottom but our friend Mark swears by the top route.

OH. FWIW, I use the H4 with out shims because I am cheap. Make that CHEAP. I lost a bulb early, may have bought the bike with one out. Went to the dealer and had my first "$25.00, are you out of your mind? I want the bulb, one, for one side, not the light assembly!" moment, and haven't looked back. I just changed my 4th one....

It also depends on whether the bike is an ABS or not as to how much 'wiggle room' you have. ;-)

I had to keep going from the top then the bottom until finally getting everything seated correctly. I have to admit, from the top i could see what needed to be done with getting the bulb in place. As for putting the clip back on I found it easier to do from the bottom.
It was something I am not afraid to attempt the next time.
I used the Sylvania H4's for those that were asking.
I thought about taking pics after completing it (naturally)! Next time i'll take pics as I go for those that need the visual effects like me.

I'm more mechanically inclined than the average guy, I can rebuilld the engine just fine . . . . but headlight connectors and clips drive me NUTS . . . . whether on a car or a bike

So, anticipating problems . . . . I read up on everything I could find on replacing the headlights before I took the bike apart and began cussing, but for the LIFE of me, I STILL can't get the 3 pin plug off the headlight

I've looked at the pictures of the 'pins' you need to press on the sides (though I'm not sure if the pictures were for an 1100 or a 1300 - Are they the same?) . . . . turn the wheel toward the light you're working on, but I can't see (or feel) any pins and trying to squeeze as tight as I can and pull back has me moving around the entire bulb

Is there a way I can remove the bulb first so can SEE how to get the darned socket off the bulb?

Good thing I don't need the bike to go anywhere . . . . this headlamp replacement may take me a WEEK - It always takes longer when you've run completely out of appropriate cuss words!!

Don