Intermittent blown fuses caused by wire rub

pdfruth

P.D.Fruth
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I guess I can post in here... Now that I've FINALLY tracked this one down, it's a "known" problem. ;)

I've been having a really annoying intermittent problem, with a fuse blowing, for quite some time. In my case, it was always the same fuse. Specifically, the fuse that powers the instrument cluster + tail lights + headlight aiming motor + hazards + position lights. I'd be driving along, everything working as expected. At some point, I'd look down, and the instrument cluster would be dead (no RPMS, speed, temp, fuel, etc.) Upon checking the fuses, I'd find the fuse blown again. Replace the fuse, and everything would be fine again for awhile (sometimes months). This has been going on for a year or so. All the signs of a wire rub somewhere (aka chafed wire). Well, I finally got a chance to strip the bike down, completely naked, to hunt for the problem.

I finally found it. Thought I'd post here, in case others come across the same, or similar, problem.
There is a wire bundle, for the switch pod on the left handle bar. The bundle has 17 wires in it, and is encased in a light-weight rubber sheath. The bundle runs down the left handle bar, next to the steering stem, and then under the hydraulic line for the clutch. The hydraulic line is affixed to the frame such that it runs along the outside of the left, upper frame spar, and maintains about a half inch (or there bouts) clearance away from the frame. Honda has routed the afore-mentioned wire bundle under the hydraulic line (so it's pinched between the hydraulic line and the frame). A very tight space to try and route a rather thick bundle of wires. Anyhow, it was a sufficiently tight squeeze to cause the rubber sheath of the wire bundle to completely rub though, and then through the insulation of one of the wires (the black/brown wire in this case). Thus, when ever I'd turn the handle bars just right, there was a direct short to ground, via the hydraulic line.

My bike is a 2003 ST1300 ABS with 20K+ miles.
I'd bet that there will be others out there, who will eventually have this problem too. Or problems with similar characteristics (i.e. intermittent blow fuses). It's just a matter of time.
Looking at the wiring diagram, I'd say that there is a good chance that other complaints might include intermittent blown fuses for;
- Horn
- Hazards
- Turn signals
- Head lights
- Instrument cluster
- Tail lights
- Screen adjuster

My Fix;
After taking the wire bundle apart and fixing the chafed wire, I re-routed the wire bundle. Instead of routing underneath the hydraulic line, I routed it over the hydraulic line.

See attached picture of the effected area.

Search terms (so others will find this thread when searching);
Intermittent blow blown pop popped fuse chafe chafed chafing rub rubbed dead dash instrument cluster screen adjuster head light tail lights turn signal signals horn aiming motor

Maybe the mods could make this a sticky

EDIT: annotated the photo with a clearer indication of the area where the wire chafe occurred on my bike.
 

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Mark

Gotta make tracks
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Thanks for posting the solution... if Chris's ever sees (or doesn't see!) these issues I'll be ready!

Mark
 
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Lewiston,ID
I had the same problem on my 2005 with 40,000. It would blow different fuses. Always the electric windshield and usually the dash and sometimes the lights. The wire harness going to the left handlebar was rubbed inside the bundle.
 
Joined
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004
Odd coincidence, I blew the fuse for my instrument lights on my silver 1100 last Saturday afternoon.

In my case, it was a farkle fault, had tapped an instrument light wire for 12V to power my radio and the relay trigger for my PIAA lights. Short to ground took out the fuse. Can't blame Honda for that one.
 
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Leavenworth Wa.
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658
There's a TSB out for that wire bundle in 03, not sure about the other years, you can check with a Honda dealer using your VIN to see if it been done if you don't know.
 

NoBull

Twisties are your friend
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Might go ahead and change mine next time Im in there. Thanks Mr Fruth..Hope to ride with you sometime this summer..
 

BakerBoy

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Pat you described it to me when we were talking at the RTE, but I didn't realize you had this thread posted. Thanks for the info! I'll check mine next time its open.

PS. I can also attest that the fix makes the '03 silver faster than it had been (of course, it was all downhill on returning from our RTE). ;)
 

Kevin_56

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Yep had the same problem with my 03. DannyK showed me why mine was blowing fuses in all of 5 seconds. Here is a picture of the frayed wires on my bike. You can see the parts that cause the loom to be "attacked"

wire rub (Custom).JPG
 
Joined
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North East of Scotland U.K.
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Pan 1300
I had this problem with my 2004 model. I had fitted bar risers and reckoned that doing this had caused the cable to become to tight ..So any one with bar rises may want to check the routing of this wireing...
 
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London
I guess I can post in here... Now that I've FINALLY tracked this one down, it's a "known" problem. ;)

I've been having a really annoying intermittent problem, with a fuse blowing, for quite some time. In my case, it was always the same fuse. Specifically, the fuse that powers the instrument cluster + tail lights + headlight aiming motor + hazards + position lights. I'd be driving along, everything working as expected. At some point, I'd look down, and the instrument cluster would be dead (no RPMS, speed, temp, fuel, etc.) Upon checking the fuses, I'd find the fuse blown again. Replace the fuse, and everything would be fine again for awhile (sometimes months). This has been going on for a year or so. All the signs of a wire rub somewhere (aka chafed wire). Well, I finally got a chance to strip the bike down, completely naked, to hunt for the problem.

I finally found it. Thought I'd post here, in case others come across the same, or similar, problem.
There is a wire bundle, for the switch pod on the left handle bar. The bundle has 17 wires in it, and is encased in a light-weight rubber sheath. The bundle runs down the left handle bar, next to the steering stem, and then under the hydraulic line for the clutch. The hydraulic line is affixed to the frame such that it runs along the outside of the left, upper frame spar, and maintains about a half inch (or there bouts) clearance away from the frame. Honda has routed the afore-mentioned wire bundle under the hydraulic line (so it's pinched between the hydraulic line and the frame). A very tight space to try and route a rather thick bundle of wires. Anyhow, it was a sufficiently tight squeeze to cause the rubber sheath of the wire bundle to completely rub though, and then through the insulation of one of the wires (the black/brown wire in this case). Thus, when ever I'd turn the handle bars just right, there was a direct short to ground, via the hydraulic line.

My bike is a 2003 ST1300 ABS with 20K+ miles.
I'd bet that there will be others out there, who will eventually have this problem too. Or problems with similar characteristics (i.e. intermittent blow fuses). It's just a matter of time.
Looking at the wiring diagram, I'd say that there is a good chance that other complaints might include intermittent blown fuses for;
- Horn
- Hazards
- Turn signals
- Head lights
- Instrument cluster
- Tail lights
- Screen adjuster

My Fix;
After taking the wire bundle apart and fixing the chafed wire, I re-routed the wire bundle. Instead of routing underneath the hydraulic line, I routed it over the hydraulic line.

See attached picture of the effected area.

Search terms (so others will find this thread when searching);
Intermittent blow blown pop popped fuse chafe chafed chafing rub rubbed dead dash instrument cluster screen adjuster head light tail lights turn signal signals horn aiming motor

Maybe the mods could make this a sticky
Hi, I had same issue. CAN YOU PLEASE IN THE PHOTO HIGHLIGHT WITH AN ARROW WHICH WIRES YOU REROUTED. It started when I lost my turn signal lights. Used workshop manual, ytube videos and learned how find electrical issue using multitester. My hazards worked fine. I had a look at wiring diagram. I checked fuses, relay, opened up turn signal switch on the handlebar, it was all fine. I took fairing off, located the wiring harness and two connectors on the left side were turn signal cables follow in. Checked continuity between relay and harness side connector, it was fine. I checked continuity between turn signal switch wires and connector on switch side - one of two, the grey wire did not beep - no continuity. I opened harness loom and found out grey wire was split in half. After I fixed it turn signals came on. I had a look at other cables - two more cables were chaffed so I disconected wire from the switch (hard work), pulled it out of loom protecting rubber and applied heat shrink. I think I will have to reroute wire loom as well. Thank you
I figured out easier way to fix chaffed cables. I did pull the faulty wire pin out of connector, pulled it out of cable sleeve/coat, put heat shrink, put it all back and wrapped all wires with spiral cable. The alternative is to use liquid electrical tape. And spiral cable wrap. I believe this would be easier specially if you haven't got pin removal tool. Also to put wire through the cable coat is hard, it's tight space.
 
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Gus1300

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Haymarket VA
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04 1300A
I appears it's the wiring just to the right of center, where it passes behind a brake line, between it and the frame. But that's just my guess. Will be checking my '04 while I have it apart right now though!

Edit: Actually, it looks like it's in the exact center of the OPs picture, where the loom has been moved in front of the push pin, like in my bottom three pictures. Maybe @pdfruth will weigh in here and confirm. I wouldn't recommend using that position because it looks like that's what caused the damage in the Post 9 photo as well. Here's how mine looked just now:

20200510_015636.jpg20200510_015503.jpg This is the loom behind the bracket in what I think is it's intended position.

Inked20200510_015656_LI.jpg And it provides ample clearance at a full-lock left turn position from the fork tube while protecting it from being stretched across the pin in a full-lock right turn.

20200510_015445.jpgInked20200510_015611_LI.jpg This is the loom after being pulled out; my finger is pointing to the frame 'push pin stabilizer' (likely not the right name, but it holds the brake line) that I think could cause damage because of the loom being trapped between it and the fork tube, as seen below, and being stretched across the pin in a right turn position.

Inked20200510_015540_LI.jpg

I think I'll be leaving mine tucked in for now and deal with any chaffing issues later if and when they happen. I think it's more likely to cause problems due to the push pin end digging into the loom wrap and wires than being against the frame where it's smooth. Worth a look on your bike though, to understand what's happening with steering inputs and make your own decision.
 
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OP
OP
pdfruth

pdfruth

P.D.Fruth
Joined
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Messages
242
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Location
Somewhere near Denver, CO
... CAN YOU PLEASE IN THE PHOTO HIGHLIGHT WITH AN ARROW WHICH WIRES YOU REROUTED.
Done, the picture in the opening post has been annotated to more clearly indicate the area where the chafing had occurred on MY bike.
That picture depicts the routing of the wire AFTER being re-routed. Prior to re-routing the wire, it had been routed thru [the very tight space] between the brake line and the frame in the area circled in red.
There's no telling whether yours is/was routed in the same way mine was.
Since you've already opened your loom and fixed the effected wires... surely you were witness to exactly what was causing the chafe on YOUR bike. So, upon re-assembly, just make sure you route the bundle in a way that won't pinch the loom. You were paying attention to the way it WAS ORIGINALLY routed, right?
 
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06 ST1300
should the bundle with the blue tape/hard kink be moved out? 2006 here.

20200709_182639.jpg
 
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OP
pdfruth

pdfruth

P.D.Fruth
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should the bundle with the blue tape/hard kink be moved out? 2006 here.
Yours doesn't appear to be routed in the same way mine was originally routed. So, maybe you won't have a problem. But, you could preemptively reroute that bundle so it's not pinched between the frame and that brake line.
 
Joined
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Messages
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KS
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06 ST1300
Yours doesn't appear to be routed in the same way mine was originally routed. So, maybe you won't have a problem. But, you could preemptively reroute that bundle so it's not pinched between the frame and that brake line.
Mine all feel pretty good and roomy. Crazy the little minor differences between all the years.
 
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