Article [13] ST1300 - Intermittent blown fuses caused by wire rub

pdfruth

P.D.Fruth
Joined
Jan 28, 2005
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242
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Somewhere near Denver, CO
I guess I can post in here... Now that I've FINALLY tracked this one down, it's a "known" problem. ;)

I've been having a really annoying intermittent problem, with a fuse blowing, for quite some time. In my case, it was always the same fuse. Specifically, the fuse that powers the instrument cluster + tail lights + headlight aiming motor + hazards + position lights. I'd be driving along, everything working as expected. At some point, I'd look down, and the instrument cluster would be dead (no RPMS, speed, temp, fuel, etc.) Upon checking the fuses, I'd find the fuse blown again. Replace the fuse, and everything would be fine again for awhile (sometimes months). This has been going on for a year or so. All the signs of a wire rub somewhere (aka chafed wire). Well, I finally got a chance to strip the bike down, completely naked, to hunt for the problem.

I finally found it. Thought I'd post here, in case others come across the same, or similar, problem.
There is a wire bundle, for the switch pod on the left handle bar. The bundle has 17 wires in it, and is encased in a light-weight rubber sheath. The bundle runs down the left handle bar, next to the steering stem, and then under the hydraulic line for the clutch. The hydraulic line is affixed to the frame such that it runs along the outside of the left, upper frame spar, and maintains about a half inch (or there bouts) clearance away from the frame. Honda has routed the afore-mentioned wire bundle under the hydraulic line (so it's pinched between the hydraulic line and the frame). A very tight space to try and route a rather thick bundle of wires. Anyhow, it was a sufficiently tight squeeze to cause the rubber sheath of the wire bundle to completely rub though, and then through the insulation of one of the wires (the black/brown wire in this case). Thus, when ever I'd turn the handle bars just right, there was a direct short to ground, via the hydraulic line.

My bike is a 2003 ST1300 ABS with 20K+ miles.
I'd bet that there will be others out there, who will eventually have this problem too. Or problems with similar characteristics (i.e. intermittent blow fuses). It's just a matter of time.
Looking at the wiring diagram, I'd say that there is a good chance that other complaints might include intermittent blown fuses for;
- Horn
- Hazards
- Turn signals
- Head lights
- Instrument cluster
- Tail lights
- Screen adjuster

My Fix;
After taking the wire bundle apart and fixing the chafed wire, I re-routed the wire bundle. Instead of routing underneath the hydraulic line, I routed it over the hydraulic line.

See attached picture of the effected area.

Search terms (so others will find this thread when searching);
Intermittent blow blown pop popped fuse chafe chafed chafing rub rubbed dead dash instrument cluster screen adjuster head light tail lights turn signal signals horn aiming motor

Maybe the mods could make this a sticky
 

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Joined
May 29, 2011
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28
Location
Tulsa
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good ?
Looked at mine an 07 and looks like the brake line is made different so that there isn't an interference anymore. good write up.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
4
Age
43
Location
Ny
I have a 2004, box stock ST1300 with 36K+ miles experiencing an intermittent blown 30amp main fuse. It happens after riding in 85° plus weather and then stopping for a break or lunch or whatever. Sometimes it'll be blown or sometimes it'll start ,idle, then blow before I can take off. As fast as I can get seat and side cover off and replace fuse, button up and go, it might not blow till next stop or months. I keep a box of fuses in the tool bag and have gotten very proficient at changing it. Really starting to freak out that it's going to blow as I pull into traffic. Almost happened one time. After reading a zillion posts, looks like I'll be looking into the wiring harness. This site has been very helpful.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
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Ny
Fans run, temperature gauge reads normal. Blows after hot soak on shutdown.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
4
Age
43
Location
Ny
I have a 2004, box stock ST1300 with 36K+ miles experiencing an intermittent blown 30amp main fuse. It happens after riding in 85° plus weather and then stopping for a break or lunch or whatever. Sometimes it'll be blown or sometimes it'll start ,idle, then blow before I can take off. As fast as I can get seat and side cover off and replace fuse, button up and go, it might not blow till next stop or months. I keep a box of fuses in the tool bag and have gotten very proficient at changing it. Really starting to freak out that it's going to blow as I pull into traffic. Almost happened one time. After reading a zillion posts, looks like I'll be looking into the wiring harness. This site has been very helpful.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
4
Age
43
Location
Ny
Follow up to my July post. Finally found the short. It was in the harness to the ignition switch. When the handlebar was turned to full left lock, the harness would hit a bracket securing the hydraulic line. Years ago the fork tubes had been removed and evidently when reinstalled, the harness got routed in front of the tube causing the problem. I took the bodywork off to unplug the harness to reroute it and repair the damaged insulation. Put it all back together with no left over parts and that should be the end of that problem. 20190928_133352.jpg20190928_133352.jpg20190928_131208.jpg20190928_113827.jpg
 

Gandolkf

Site Supporter
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
992
Location
Farmers Branch,Tx
Bike
2018 Wing
STOC #
8301
thanks for the write up.

I have this problem on my grey bike,found the wires.
bought liquid tape and have shrink wrap tape. difficult place to work in.
Am I over thinking this?
Do I just wrap then with tape?
 

woodybelle

Site Supporter
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
539
Age
72
Location
Sonora, California
Bike
2006 ST1300
Liquid tape or even some silicone adhesive will keep the water out of the bare copper strands. This is important because if left to the elements the copper strands in the wire will eventually corrode and turn into a grey blue dust! Seal it up the best that you can. The engineers at General Motors used to tell us that if you pierce the insulation with a test light or multimeter probe then you should seal the small hole left with adhesive to prevent future corrosion.
 

Gandolkf

Site Supporter
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
992
Location
Farmers Branch,Tx
Bike
2018 Wing
STOC #
8301
Kewl
So I'll use liquid tape to seal rip/tear.
I saw on line how to use shrink-wrap rape.
wrap wire, then zipties on ends.apply heat.
that should do it.

Thanks
 
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Alberta
Bike
2004 ST1300
I guess I can post in here... Now that I've FINALLY tracked this one down, it's a "known" problem. ;)

I've been having a really annoying intermittent problem, with a fuse blowing, for quite some time. In my case, it was always the same fuse. Specifically, the fuse that powers the instrument cluster + tail lights + headlight aiming motor + hazards + position lights. I'd be driving along, everything working as expected. At some point, I'd look down, and the instrument cluster would be dead (no RPMS, speed, temp, fuel, etc.) Upon checking the fuses, I'd find the fuse blown again. Replace the fuse, and everything would be fine again for awhile (sometimes months). This has been going on for a year or so. All the signs of a wire rub somewhere (aka chafed wire). Well, I finally got a chance to strip the bike down, completely naked, to hunt for the problem.

I finally found it. Thought I'd post here, in case others come across the same, or similar, problem.
There is a wire bundle, for the switch pod on the left handle bar. The bundle has 17 wires in it, and is encased in a light-weight rubber sheath. The bundle runs down the left handle bar, next to the steering stem, and then under the hydraulic line for the clutch. The hydraulic line is affixed to the frame such that it runs along the outside of the left, upper frame spar, and maintains about a half inch (or there bouts) clearance away from the frame. Honda has routed the afore-mentioned wire bundle under the hydraulic line (so it's pinched between the hydraulic line and the frame). A very tight space to try and route a rather thick bundle of wires. Anyhow, it was a sufficiently tight squeeze to cause the rubber sheath of the wire bundle to completely rub though, and then through the insulation of one of the wires (the black/brown wire in this case). Thus, when ever I'd turn the handle bars just right, there was a direct short to ground, via the hydraulic line.

My bike is a 2003 ST1300 ABS with 20K+ miles.
I'd bet that there will be others out there, who will eventually have this problem too. Or problems with similar characteristics (i.e. intermittent blow fuses). It's just a matter of time.
Looking at the wiring diagram, I'd say that there is a good chance that other complaints might include intermittent blown fuses for;
- Horn
- Hazards
- Turn signals
- Head lights
- Instrument cluster
- Tail lights
- Screen adjuster

My Fix;
After taking the wire bundle apart and fixing the chafed wire, I re-routed the wire bundle. Instead of routing underneath the hydraulic line, I routed it over the hydraulic line.

See attached picture of the effected area.

Search terms (so others will find this thread when searching);
Intermittent blow blown pop popped fuse chafe chafed chafing rub rubbed dead dash instrument cluster screen adjuster head light tail lights turn signal signals horn aiming motor

Maybe the mods could make this a sticky
I had the same issue. My horn would randomly start beeping and my signal/hazard lights would occasionally go wonky. I figured it was the left switch pod. Replaced it last weekend and found I had 3 fully exposed wires at that point from rubbing on the frame. Works great now. Relatively easy fix.
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2020
Messages
4
Age
22
Location
Wisconsin
Is there a way to access the wire bundle without taking the bike apart? Can you see if the bundle is melted through from the outside, or is it mandatory to take apart the bike to be able to see if the bundle is in fact melted?
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2020
Messages
4
Age
22
Location
Wisconsin
Is there a way to access the wire bundle without taking the bike apart? Can you see if the bundle is melted through from the outside, or is it mandatory to take apart the bike to be able to see if the bundle is in fact melted?
I have found the problem that you were mentioning. It did not require taking the faring off of the bike. Rather, the bundle that runs from the left handlebar is accessible up until it goes under the gas tank on the bike. The problem with my bike was that the coating and some of the wire coatings were pinched through and were bare when the bike turned left, as the handlebar would cause the wire bundle to get pinched between the suspension for the front wheel and the handlebar. This resulted over time in the coating wearing off for the wires, and when I turned left, a short would occur that would blow the fuse for the headlights. It was actually a pretty simple fix. Thanks to everyone above who helped guide me through this process. I hope that my problem will help anyone else who has a similar thing occur to them.
 

STimpa

Livin my best life!
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
202
Location
E Oregon
Bike
05 ST1300
STOC #
6950
Cha-ching! This is why I joined this forum 15 years ago... i was blowing fuses for my headlight and brake light/horn. After finding this thread, my buddy and I pulled the plastic off the left side and voila', there it is. Between the pinch behind the clutch line and the head. Removed the small bolt holding the clutch line, pulled the harness free, and the back side was clearly compromised. 20220808_093843.jpg20220808_094223.jpg
Insert short piece of new wire to the two damaged wires, add shrink tube, tape, and plastic sheath. All good. Thank you guys for posting solutions to problems!
Tim
 
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