How much fluid required for change of fluid through Proportioning Control Valve??

janfmiller

janfmiller

Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
100
Location
Superior, WI
Bike
2007 ST1300
Replacing the brake fluid in my '07 non ABS ST1300.
Having trouble getting the rear brakes back.. Foolishly drained all the fluid like the shop manual specifies.
Question is.... How much fluid does it take to bleed out the proportioning valve (bleeder above the right cylinder head by the coil. A reservoir full??? 2?? Have pumped a ton though, and bled the rest of the rear system. Pedal still needs to be pumped up..
Thanks,
Jan..
 
the proportioning valve can be a pain to get fluid thru... best way is vacum pull AND manual pumping at same time... and its prob at least a full resv.

As to how much, not sure but last full brake bleed I used 2 bottles (pints) with a bit left over.

ps; if you got air in there , then I'd do the whole system over (bleed) as per the manual ( don't miss the tilt of front left brake )

Edit;
check out old thread quick bleed ....

Re: Brake Bleeding Sequence Cheat Sheet
Personally, I'd follow this sequence:

Brake Lever

1. Left Outer (upper) bleed valve.
2. Right Outer (upper) bleed valve.

Brake Pedal

1. Remove and tilt left front caliper 15 degrees (wood shims inserted between the pads will keep the pads from extending while~if pedal is pumped)
2. Proportioning Control bleed valve.
3. Rear Brake Center bleed valve.
4. Right Front Center bleed valve.
5. Left Front Center bleed valve.
6. Rear Outer (forward) bleed valve.
 
Also, when bleeding the proportional control valve (and while the SMC is removed and tilted) - you can get a better bleed by manually actuating the SMC plunger, and using the rear brake to continue with the bleed and simultaneously extend the SMC plunger fully out. Repeat as necessary.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I serviced another members 07 non-ABS last night.
Used (2) small bottles of Dot 4 and had some left over for the entire brake system and clutch system.
I never recommend the use of ANY pump or mity vac type unit because I feel it pulls the fluid through too quickly causing microscopic foam (air bubbles)
I use a motion pro bleed tool (check valve-$15 dollars)
Procedure as follows:
Remove fluid from MC with syringe or turkey baster- clean out sludge with cotton ball or blue shop towel.
Fill with clean fluid.
Handlebar MC - bleed front tire upper left valve (two MC of fluid - or until clear)
Handlebar MC - bleed front tire upper right valve (two MC of fluid - or until clear)
Clean diaphram in denatured alcohol and close up.
Remove left caliper - tilt 15 degrees (rest on clutch housing) insert plastic or wooden inserts to keep calipers from closing.
Remove fluid from rear MC and clean housing. - fill with clean fluid -
Bleed pro-valve (two MC of fluid - or until clear)
I simply used slow, smooth, firm pressure on the rear brake and have never had any problem
bleeding this valve.
Keep close eye on fluid in rear MC - it empties quickly.
Go to rear wheel and bleed the forward valve (two MC of fluid - or until clear)
Refill MC
go back to front wheel (right side)
Bleed right front lower valve ( yada-yada)
Fill MC (yada yada)
Replace left caliper back into position and carefully use a SMALL drop of locktite on threads.
I believe its 23lbs of torque, but check the manual (I'm at work)
Bleed left lower valve (yada yada)
Refill MC
Go back to rear wheel and bleed last (outside or most rearward valve)
Clean all fluid off nipples
twist blue shop towel and insert into valve to get remaining fluid so it won't bleed out onto paint.
A little brake cleaner...
Put everything back together.
Use Tape, Inner tube or velcro to lock brake lever in on position over night.
Use lead weights (scuba?) or block of wood to hold rear foot pedal down in position overnight.
You WILL HAVE FIRM LEVERS when you wake up!
This allows the tiny air bubbles to work themselves upward over night.
I'm doing this from memory while at work, so please double check instructions in Honda Service Manual.
* I've never had to operate the pro-valve plunger to bleed any system - service manual would state it if it was needed. IMHO

Hope this helps.
Oh yeah, did you know you can bleed the brake system in about 20 minutes or less WITHOUT removing ALL the plastic body parts? If interested PM me.
I've done it on several ST1300's so far.

RIde safe
 
Sorry for the 2nd Reply, could not edit my post for some reason.
It just occured to me that you said you DRAINED your entire system as directed by the service manual,
In RARE occations, you may want to do a reverse bleed. Simply fill a large plastic syringe (hobby or pet store) and simply push the fluid up stream and slowly flood the MC full. This carries the bubbles up with the fluid. Then you can bleed as normal.
I use this method when installing SS lines on Harley Davidson's when the lines are completely dry.
Good luck
Igofar
 
Thanks for all the help.. I just manually pumped the fluid through, abandoning the vacuum bleeder, and all is well now...
 
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