FI code 26

Well I picked up a used ECM courtesy of Stan (V8-7) through Randy (Randy M n Ga) to do swap/check. On the 29 mile trip there the light did come on but I did a short ride yesterday and it didn't come on. On the way home it did not come on. I've got a business meeting this week in Nashville so I'm going to ride there and give it the real test. Keep your fingers crossed everyone and I'll post the results when I get back Tuesday night.

Thank you Stan and Randy!

Skip
 
Can't say for sure, but I think the replacement ECU may have solved your problem. Keep us posted.
 
skipcurt said:
On the 29 mile trip there the light did come on but I did a short ride yesterday and it didn't come on. On the way home it did not come on. I've got a business meeting this week in Nashville so I'm going to ride there and give it the real test.
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If you saw it at all, I think you're going to see it again with the Stan-and-Randy ECM. Give it a good ride at revs above 4,000. If S&R are sure the unit they lent you is good, this means your ECM is fine.

Since you've got a meter that you're now more comfortable using, you might also want to measure the output of the sensors and see if they look anything like these values. Ignore the DC voltages in the table; you're looking for millivolts AC. If you've got one side that looks very different than the other, one of the sensors is failing. (Or you could swap them and see if the code switches sides.)

--Mark
 
So here is the latest update on the dreaded code 26.

Left yesterday for a 235 mile trip to Nashville with a new/used ECM. Left with great weather in the mid 70's with a half tank of fuel. Stopped about halfway to refill with 93 octane. Carried on to the end where the temps were mid 60's. No FI light the whole way. Pretty much ran the entire highway trip in the 75-80mph range which is 4250-4500 rpm's. Parked the bike at the hotel for 19 hours while doing business.

Left today with a half tank of fuel in the low 70's. The stupid FI light comes on at about the 2 mile mark. Arrrgggh!! Thought I had it licked! Code 26 again. So I stopped to refill a little over halfway and reset the ECM. Took off and this time it took 6 miles for it to return. How the heck can it go 235 miles and never light and then the next day it takes 2 miles? Enough to drive me crazy.

So I guess the next step is to try and figure out Mark's suggestion of testing the voltage levels. Not sure how to do that just like when this venture started with continuity testing. For me it would be easier to swap the sensors and see if the code switches. Does anyone know what size the sensor nut is? I'll have to buy the open end wrench or the socket. Surely someone has removed/replaced them to know. It's either that or the 5 way tee.

Sorry for the bad news folks.

Skip
 
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Not that I read this word for word, but the intake temp probe has as much bearing on the FI light as the knock sensor, and not only can it be a sensor or probe, but the wiring just near the connections to the sensor or probe. Maybe this has been stated but like the great Igofar says, my $0.02.
 
Do not attempt to remove the sensors off the exhaust without first soaking them overnight with PB Blaster, and do not use an open end wrench or you'll damage the sensor (snap-on or wright grip) wrenches will damage the nut, then you'll have to replace a very expensive sensor switch (you may want to check the prices out first) Find the proper O2 socket tool, IIRC (guessing) its about 22mm.
 
Igofar said:
Do not attempt to remove the sensors off the exhaust without first soaking them overnight with PB Blaster, and do not use an open end wrench or you'll damage the sensor (snap-on or wright grip) wrenches will damage the nut, then you'll have to replace a very expensive sensor switch (you may want to check the prices out first) Find the proper O2 socket tool, IIRC (guessing) its about 22mm.
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Uh Larry, we're talking about knock sensors, not O2 sensors. The knock sensors are not on the exhaust.
 
skipcurt said:
So I guess the next step is to try and figure out Mark's suggestion of testing the voltage levels. Not sure how to do that just like when this venture started with continuity testing. For me it would be easier to swap the sensors and see if the code switches.
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I took another look at the Harbor Freight meter and it only has two AC voltage ranges, 200 and 750. Neither would be suitable for this kind of measurement, so a swap would be the next best thing.

cdnemsguy said:
Not that I read this word for word, but the intake temp probe has as much bearing on the FI light as the knock sensor, and not only can it be a sensor or probe, but the wiring just near the connections to the sensor or probe.
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Even though the sensors have a combined effect on the ECM's decision making about how the engine is fueled, they're completely separate electrically and the software treats them that way as far as diagnostics are concerned. If there's a detectable problem in the IAT sensor, the computer's not going to throw the code for the #2 fuel injector. I'm going on the assumption that Skip is asking the ECM what it thinks is wrong when the FI light is on.

--Mark
 
Don B said:
Uh Larry, we're talking about knock sensors, not O2 sensors. The knock sensors are not on the exhaust.
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Forty eight hours without sleep....was helping someone else with an exhaust issue, sorry for the confusion....or.......sorry I was eating a milky way.
 
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Blrfl said:
I took another look at the Harbor Freight meter and it only has two AC voltage ranges, 200 and 750. Neither would be suitable for this kind of measurement, so a swap would be the next best thing.

--Mark
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I did purchase a new multimeter when this debacle started. This one. Looks to be about the same as the other as far as the AC voltage range if I'm correct.

I've called several Honda dealerships this morning to see if the have the sensor in stock to tell me the nut size but they don't have it and they don't know it. Rather amazing you kind find any info on that out there in cyberworld. I think I'm going to post a separate thread asking for that specifically.

Skip
 
Latest update.
Took her out for test ride today to get the GA tag after swapping the knock sensors yesterday. See here. Post # 20.

Took off in the low 60's and 56 miles later the FI light came on. Again, code 26!! This is driving me crazy. So I now know it's not the sensor(s). The last step before I start replacing wiring looms will now be to get in there to check/clean the 5 way tee and the tubing as Larry has suggested. Guess I just got to keep checking off the boxes. The funny thing is the bike seems to run just fine like she's ever run. When it first happened out at ArkanSToc I could feel a very slight lag in the engine as the light came on but haven't felt it since. No drop in mileage as I'm still getting between 250 - 280 miles per tank (depending how & where I'm riding).

Skip
 
DavidR8 said:
Kurt, I was reading in this thread that a new sub harness cured the problem.
I know that you tested for continuity but I can't help thinking that something basic is amiss.
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That makes a lot of sense as well, could be it tests fine but once the bike is moving there's a broken wire somewhere that will may short and be the issue.. tough to track down unless you manually wired w/spare connector using new wires?
 
Mellow said:
That makes a lot of sense as well, could be it tests fine but once the bike is moving there's a broken wire somewhere that will may short and be the issue.. tough to track down unless you manually wired w/spare connector using new wires?
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I mention it because of an experience with my Subaru. Had to put it on a dyno and wiggle the FI harness wires to get it to trip the fault. Moving wires at idle would not do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
skipcurt said:
Latest update.
Took her out for test ride today to get the GA tag after swapping the knock sensors yesterday. See here. Post # 20.

Took off in the low 60's and 56 miles later the FI light came on. Again, code 26!! This is driving me crazy. So I now know it's not the sensor(s). The last step before I start replacing wiring looms will now be to get in there to check/clean the 5 way tee and the tubing as Larry has suggested. Guess I just got to keep checking off the boxes. The funny thing is the bike seems to run just fine like she's ever run. When it first happened out at ArkanSToc I could feel a very slight lag in the engine as the light came on but haven't felt it since. No drop in mileage as I'm still getting between 250 - 280 miles per tank (depending how & where I'm riding).

Skip
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The error associated with the 5-Tee and the associated vacuum lines is a code 2 usually. Code 2 is for the MAP sensor but the sensor itself is likely OK but if it gets isolated from the vacuum signal by a blockage the code will set.
 
Had a bike in the garage this week with the same FI code thrown. Pulled the lines & tee, replaced with new and did a TB (starter valve sync) just for good measure, cleared codes, life is good again, no more FI codes thrown.
Found goop in 5 way tee, lines, and attachment points on TB's.
Also opened up a 2009 with low miles, and pushed a rather large piece of goop out of the 5 way tee, and it hadn't started throwing codes yet.
If it were my bike, I would start with the easy/free stuff, rather than throwing money at it replacing sensors, and electrical stuff.
:rolleyes:
 
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