ST1300 - what is typical mileage for when valves first need adjustment? I have 71,000 miles, and the 3 times I've had the valves checked, was told they were still within tolerance. What has your experience been?
The most important piece of information that you need is what the clearances are when they are checked. That way, you can see where the close tolerances lie and the pattern in which wear is happening. example:I just checked mine and from what I see, I have a couple that are within .0005 inch of being out of spec., one loose and one tight. I expect the loose one to become tighter over time, but the tight one will need to be watched. For this reason, I will check all again next winter. I dont do a lot of miles and I expect they will all be fine. As was mentioned, all bikes are different, but armed with the numbers, you can judge when a valve adjustment may be coming. I dont know if a dealership or shop will give you the numbers, but ask and see.ST1300 - what is typical mileage for when valves first need adjustment? I have 71,000 miles, and the 3 times I've had the valves checked, was told they were still within tolerance. What has your experience been?
Not true with the ST valve train- At least the exhaust will get tighter with time, so in this case no noise = bad lolWell known expression - if is not broken, don't fix it
In other words, if you don't hear clicking sound from the cylinder heads no needs to do anything.
Kind of like going to the doctor in other words. If nothing bad happens to the other guy it shouldn't to me, correct?My two cents: So many say NO adjustments needed until way after 90K. So, I just hit the 70K number & I'm gonna go to 100,000 miles. Why? Bikes runs very good. And I'm getting a fantastic regular 44 MPG. That kinda gas mileage would suffer if they valves were outta spec. With all that entails to perform a valve-check.....I'll wait. Just my opinion. Why didn't Honda just make these valves "hydraulic" like a GoldWing?
Like playfair said just above your post, no noise is not good on valves. The tighter they get the less noise until there is no gap and then there will be a big noise! The exhaust can get held open with no gap and that's when you get a burnt valve. When a valve seats to the head heat is transferred away from the valve, no seating no heat transfer. A valve with the correct gap should tick tick tick as it seats.My two cents: So many say NO adjustments needed until way after 90K. So, I just hit the 70K number & I'm gonna go to 100,000 miles. Why? Bikes runs very good. And I'm getting a fantastic regular 44 MPG. That kinda gas mileage would suffer if they valves were outta spec. With all that entails to perform a valve-check.....I'll wait. Just my opinion. Why didn't Honda just make these valves "hydraulic" like a GoldWing?
bike running good and MPG have nothing to do with valve clearanceMy two cents: So many say NO adjustments needed until way after 90K. So, I just hit the 70K number & I'm gonna go to 100,000 miles. Why? Bikes runs very good. And I'm getting a fantastic regular 44 MPG. That kinda gas mileage would suffer if they valves were outta spec. With all that entails to perform a valve-check.....I'll wait. Just my opinion. Why didn't Honda just make these valves "hydraulic" like a GoldWing?
More space needed, slightly less performance and limited to lower max RPM (hydraulics have a slight delay and will float the valve, never letting it fully open or close when they get moving too fast). Our engine are already limited to an RPM range that hydraulic lifter could handle, but they do need more height and other things need to be changed to accommodate (cam profile, spring tension to start).hydraulic valves are a less compact design (probably lower revving as well) and most importantly, they remove service income from dealerships balance sheet