Feeler Gauges

I don?t have my shop manual with me but I am going to get some tools after work for a valve check. Question: Are there different types of feeler gauges, meaning are they in Metric or standard? I would assume if they are two types I would need the metric. Also, what range of sizes do I need? Feeling dumb, but thanks?.

You can use Either inch or metric, it doesn't matter. My suggestion is to get a cheap set that covers .005-.007" and .009 - .011". You will need to bend them about 1/3 of the way back from the tip to access most of the gaps. Save these for only checking the ST.

Sears used to sell a set of angled feeler gages.

I would suggest metric as the resolution will be better. Half the reason for checking valve clearances is to know how they change over time. Being able to read a resolution of .01mm is much better the .001 inches especially since the spec is plus or minus .03mm.

Angled might be nice but not essential. The clearances being checked allow for bending the feelers without any problem.

Ray

thanks for the info.

Here's my collection of metric and inch feeler gages, and a metric micrometer:



I've used them all at one time or another doing a valve clearance inspection and adjustment (shim R&R) on my 91 ST1100.

I have to admit that it took a while for this lesson to sink in:

Don't bother with metric feelers because Honda shim thickness intervals are 0.025mm and .001"=.0254mm... close enough for our purposes. In other words, use the inch specs for your ST's intake and exhaust valve clearance, and measure with inch feeler gages. Then for every .001" that you want to move your valve clearance (either tighter or looser) select the next size shim (either thicker or thinner) from the one currently installed.

For the ST1100, you'll need feeler gages from .004" thru .012". If you're really anal, add a .003" and .013", but hopefully you won't ever find a valve a whole 2 thousandths out of spec. I don't know the clearance specs for the ST13, but I have heard the range of shim sizes installed is somewhat different than the ST11. I've attached a list of all the Honda shim sizes, markings, and part numbers.

BTW, there is a very nice loaner ST1100 valve clearance/shim R&R kit available through ST-Riders. Details here:
http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders/index.php?topic=556.0

Also, my friend Dan Horton, STOC 1256, made up a nice shim calculator spreadsheet for the ST1100s, if you'd like to confirm your simple math.

[edit: if you can't find bent feelers, buy straight ones and bend them yourself.]
[edit2: My friend Ray Stevens, STOC 1014, made a nice shim R&R layout sheet.]

HTH

John

Great answer and resources! Thanks again!

Most of the feeler gauge sets I've bought lately have the metric and SAE thicknesses marked on them.

I searched a lot for the angled feeler gauges and Sears was the easiest to get but was one shy of the thinnest one needed to check a valve that is just under the minimum clearance. After a lot of searching I simply went and bought the straight feeler gauge set from Sears that had that size. I took it out and bent it. I keep just the ones I need for the valves in a baggie clearly marked.

Curt

STGhOOST said:

I have to admit that it took a while for this lesson to sink in:

Don't bother with metric feelers because Honda shim thickness intervals are 0.025mm and .001"=.0254mm... close enough for our purposes. In other words, use the inch specs for your ST's intake and exhaust valve clearance, and measure with inch feeler gages. Then for every .001" that you want to move your valve clearance (either tighter or looser) select the next size shim (either thicker or thinner) from the one currently installed.

For the ST1100, you'll need feeler gages from .004" thru .012". If you're really anal, add a .003" and .013", but hopefully you won't ever find a valve a whole 2 thousandths out of spec. I don't know the clearance specs for the ST13, but I have heard the range of shim sizes installed is somewhat different than the ST11. I've attached a list of all the Honda shim sizes, markings, and part numbers.

[edit2: My friend Ray Stevens, STOC 1014, made a nice shim R&R layout sheet.]

HTH

John

Click to expand...

Hmmmm... What a novel approach John - will have to keep this in mind next time. I started out with SAE feelers, but quickly went to the metrics because I felt I got better reading results using the smaller resolution. With the inch gauges I was never sure whether I was too loose or too tight on the feel... At a minimum I may have to start converting my metric reads over to inch and use your step size logic from there. Maybe I'll even learn how to get the right feel out of the SAE feelers... :bow1:

As for a shim layout sheet, I am attaching an Excel sheet that contains a drawing I made to aid in recording the clearances and shim sizes in case anyone is interested. Has worked well for me.

If you look at the differences between the metric and imperial valve clearance specifications, you will see that it is no use getting hung up on slight differences, as they do not exactly correlate. The main thing is to err on the loose side when doing the shims, as they tend to loosen up the gap over time.

crazykz said:

I searched a lot for the angled feeler gauges and Sears was the easiest to get but was one shy of the thinnest one...

Click to expand...

My favorite hardware store sells feeler gauge stock in 12" lengths that are great for augmenting your collection. The one missing from the Craftsman set is 0.004", which can be had at as P/N 2083A17 in high-carbon steel for $1.56 or P/N 19875A35 in type 300 stainless for $2.55. If you cut them short, make sure they're sheared properly or use the pre-cut end to make your checks.

--Mark

SilverSTreak: VERY cool worksheet for recording the values. Thanks!

Here's a sheet for the ST1300 that has color highlighting for in borderline and out measurements. Also will calculate the new value. You may need to round it to the nearest shim size you can get.

Here's the top of the thread (Valves lessons learned)
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19514

Here's the post where it's stored:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=316644&postcount=23

Curt

I wrote (snips):

Don't bother with metric feelers because Honda
shim thickness intervals are 0.025mm and .001"=.0254mm...
.... for every .001" that you want to move your valve clearance (either tighter or looser) select the next size shim (either thicker or thinner) from the one currently installed.

... Dan Horton, STOC 1256, made up a nice shim calculator spreadsheet for the ST1100s...

... Ray Stevens, STOC 1014, made a nice shim R&R layout sheet...

Click to expand...

And Bill Royal replied (snip):

SilverSTreak said:

Hmmmm... What a novel approach John - will have to keep this in mind next time. I started out with SAE feelers, but quickly went to the metrics because I felt I got better reading results using the smaller resolution. With the inch gauges I was never sure whether I was too loose or too tight on the feel... At a minimum I may have to start converting my metric reads over to inch and use your step size logic from there. Maybe I'll even learn how to get the right feel out of the SAE feelers...

Click to expand...

It's not a novel or original approach, Bill. I sure didn't invent it or stumble upon it. Some savy wrenches told me about it and it finally sank in after going through what you did/are... metric/inch feelers, working all the shim calculations with pen and paper, hand-held calculator, and Works and Excel worksheets. Using metric won't get you any closer, you'll still end up with the very same new shim size to get the closest to the desired clearance. BTDT

Example: one of your ST1100's exhaust valves has a measured clearance of .008". This is too tight as the spec is .009"-.011". You decide to get the valve to the center of the spec: .010", or an increase of .002". To increase the clearance between the cam lobe and the shim bucket, you need a shim .002" thinner. [or ~.050mm, two shim sizes thinner] When you pull the cam holder and shim bucket, you see the installed shim is marked: "222". Looking at the shim PN/marking list I attached in the above post, that marking identifies the shim as a 2.225mm. The new shim should then be a 2.175mm, marked: "218".

You can 'mic' the shims to confirm their thicknesses, but every one I've checked was as marked. I don't know why Honda used the markings conventions that they did (rounding 25 down).

I've attached Dan Horton's outstanding Excel shim calc worksheet in which you can enter either metric or inch measurements. I've also attached Ray Stevens' layout sheet.

HTH

John