02-10: Cold and overcast but none of the freezing rain and show that had been forecasted. Marty and Sharon took the Explorer to Study Butte to have the tire fixed. Kathy and I rode the ST up to the north end of the park to hike into Dog Canyon. Big Bend is so huge that from The Basin one can travel 30 miles in any direction along the three major roads that radiate from Panther Junction and still not leave the park. It was a cold ride and I was very glad of my heated hand grips and heated Warm & Safe Jacket Liner and Glove Liners. On the back Kathy has none of this luxury.
When we arrived at the Dog Canyon trail head it was 34 degrees with a strong wind out of the north.
The first 2 miles of the trail is across the flats so we decided to wimp out and instead rode north to warm up in the Park Visitor center at Persimon Gap. We returned to The Basin for lunch as Kathy had enough of freezing on the back of the ST. That afternoon I rode down to the Rio Grande Village and Boquillas Canyon at the east end of the park.
02-11: The rain finally arrived in the night so we woke to a wet morning in The Basin with a light cover of snow high up on Emory Peak above us. Marty took us in the EXplorer down to the east end of the park where we to the Old Ore dirt road 10 miles north to the Ernst Tinaja canyon. This starts as an easy hike along a flat wash into a canyon where the dipping interbedded cretaceous limestone and mudstone trap water in holes or "Tinajas". We had visited here last year and this time Kathy was determined to hike further up the canyon. It narrows ito avarious choke points where it is necessary to do more climbing than hiking. WE successfully got past all the obstacles and hiked through to where the canyon opens up again into the Ernst Basin where the old aerial ore tramway terminated. Another great day despite the overcast weather and occassional light rain. We capped it off by visiting Terlingua Ghost Town where we had a great guided tour of the old mining works and settlement with Cinta and then dinner at the "Starlight Theatre".
02-12: I had been worried that the weather would be a problem when we left the park and headed north but it turned out to be a great day. Kathy and Sharon drove the Explorer while Marty was on his Shadow and I rode the ST. It was cold but clear as we rode west exiting the park through Study Butte.
In Lajitas Sharon joined Marty on the Shadow as I led off along the River Road (HWY 170) to Presidio. The ST ate up the twisties along the Rio Grande and through Canyon Madera.
Just a couple of "oh ****" moments when the bends were sharper than I thought or there was gravel on the wrong part of the road. The twisties turned into long sweepers and then some derelict villages that reminded me of "No Country for Old Men". In Presidio Marty gassed up and Sharon returned to the Explorer. We headed north on US67 to Marfa and Fort Davis. As the road climbs to over 5,000 ft before Marfa the views in the clear cold air were amazing. Long sweepers and even long straights where I had the ST up to over 115 with Marty disappearing to a small dot in my mirror. Before Marfa we were stopped again by the Border Control. Great guys doing a great job but that question still seems a bit ridiculous. Thought I might say something about the red head in the Explorer following behind but passed on the chance for real trouble!
We stopped for lunch in Ft Davis and then headed north and west on Hwy 118 through Davis Mountains State Park. Another great road with some mean twisties as it rises to well over 6,000 ft near the McDonald Observatory before descending into a long straight to join I-10 at Kent. Marty's Shadow was running on fumes as we gassed up again. West on I-10 with the speed limit at 80. The strong headwind made passing the semi's who were doing 75 rather exciting! In Van Horn we turned north on Hwy 54. My GPS told me we were in far west Texas as I could only see three faint curves in the next 100 miles. My Garmin also told me that that there were not going to any gas stations for 130 miles so I kept the speed down so Marty's Shadow would not run dry. Looking over the wind shield the distinct mass of Guadelupe Peak and El Capitan could be clearly seen from over 70 miles away! Coming closer to the mountain I decided to stop and take a picture of the ST with Guadelupe Peak and El Capitan.
Stopped on the side of the road, took the picture, decided to turn the bike around so I could get the same picture from the front, realised I had dropped my glove so lowered the bike onto the bike stand. Problem was that I had raised the stand so down it went for drop #4. I got the ST up quickly as at least one truck started to pull over. Happy to see their concern but I did not want to share my embarrasment! Forgetting the idea of any more pictures I rode off to catch up with Marty's Shadow and the Explorer. We checked in that night at the Walnut Inn in White City, a dumpy motel by any standards.
02-13: A rare day apparently in US history as the ONLY recorded day when every State other than Hawaii received a measured amount of snowfall. Kathy and I hiked up Guadelupe Peak, at 8,749ft the highest point in Texas. While that might not sound high by Colorado standards, the hike up involves 3,000 ft of vertical in just over 4 miles. The Falcon Guide rates it as "difficult and strenuous" and "one of the most spectaular hikes in the United States". It was all of that for us especially as we were hiking over deep, wind blown snow or over half the trail. At times the snow was knee deep making it very hard going.
A couple of the drop offs are spectacular but do not compare with the amazing views. we were about two thirds up when two Army personnel ran by making our slow progress look pathetic. I decided they must be aliens when they ran past us again in the opposite direction before we had reached the last switchbacks. They were pleased at our shouts that we were glad they were defending us!
We reached the top, took some pictures and started lunch before we were invaded this time by a Border Patrol Explorer group of 28 kids who also had
the task of "running" the mountain. Great to see these kids taking such strenuous exercise but they were "loud"! We set off down from the summit only to have to stand aside as the Explorers ran past us. They did a great job of ploughing a better trail for us through the snow drifts but it was still a slippery hike back down. We managed to do the 8.4 mile hike up and back in just over six hours. That evening we soothed our aching muscles with a few 'ritas in Carlsbad.
02-14: The plan was to do the 626 mile journey home to Houston in one day so we got away early. It was 44 degF in White City so I did not bother with my heated glove liners. First big mistake of the day as within ten miles the ST showed the 32 deg and then as we took HWY 652 west it went down to 26 deg every time the road dropped into a draw where the cold air was trapped. Coming onto US 285 the sunrise was very welcome as I rode through Pecos for breakfast in Fort Stockton at the junction with I-10. Riding the slab is not my preference but there are not a lot of choices in West Texas. With 80 mph speed limit the section of I-10 through to Kerville is a good ride and we planned to turn off on US290 through Fredericksburg and Austin into Houston. I sped away from the Explorer which plodded along at 65mph. After two hours I was just outside Sonora when my iPod Touch quit so I pulled over into a rest area to check what was wrong. Discovered that the battery was dead on the iPod so plugged it into the bike to charge up. Thought I should give the bike a quick check and discovered my secong Big Mistake.
My rear tire was worn so flat that the threads were just showing! Decided not to risk a catastrophic tire failure at 80+ so that was it for my ride. Called in the Explorer and we loaded the ST on the trailer.
Looking back on it I should have done my math better as I had put the Avon Storms on the ST at 9,800 and I should have changed out the rear before starting this planned 2,000 mile trip. With 18,065 on the clock I got just over 8,000 miles on that tire which seems average for other forum members who have used the Storms. I'm glad I learned that lesson before the tire failed on me.
So overall a great trip! We have booked to go again next year at the same time, staying again in one of the Roosevelt Stone Cottages in the Chisos Basin. James has said he will join us on his ST1300 and maybe we can get David out on the NT700V. All we'll need is Kathy on a dual sport for those dirt roads...
+:CanFlag1:
! Decide to stop off the next day to catch the 10:00am tour. Back to the dumpy Best Western in Del Rio but a good mexican dinner in Pedro's just around the corner.
