3 Yellow Wires

[ST1100Y]

My skeptical side wonders about the real source of these units, or if they could be a Chinese knock off, despite saying Made in Japan.

+1...
Thought the very same when all over sudden "new OEM quality" 26A VRRs appeared on Ebay for just suspiciously low prices...
Names like [Tourmax (made in Japan)], or [identical with original part], or [SUN regulator rectifier CDI unit]...

The genuine one has SH261-12 stamped in white letters on the resin potting...

 

[IpswichST]

So John, you are saying that I should snip off the ends that connect to the Alt and solder them? Im still cleaning up the whole area... may just do that.

As for the Voltmeter... ever since I had the original meltdown of the OEM plug I added a voltmeter. Peace of mind knowing if your charging system is not charging.

I have read that if I run my voltmeter through a relay I lose a little... Like 1/2 (+/-) a volt? Sound right? Unless I run the volt meter straight to the battery Im going to lose some voltage.. correct?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Yes, Howe, I'd cut back into the yellow leads from the stator until I had good clean copper wire strands and casing and solder your new wires to them making one continuous lead to the VRR. I don't know how to make this clearer. We are eliminating the OEM red 3P connector, a source of resistance.

You may have a drop in voltage reading depending on where and how you've tapped into the wiring. Put a quality multimeter directly on the battery posts and compare its reading to the voltmeter to determine the difference... your calibration figure.

John

 

[IpswichST]

Fixed my yellow wire issue. A lesson learned and recommended to all (who may not know). I took John's advice and cut, spliced, and soldered my yellow wires to make ontinuous connections from my Alt to my RR. No resistance... just flowing juice to my RR. My yellow wires are no longer hot and I cleaned up my connections.

Im pulling good volts at my volt meter... 14.7 riding down the road.

 

[IpswichST]

Here is my splice in job. Wires cut and soldered then wrapped in one layer of elec tape.

Then I added the Voltmeter. This meter is connected through a relay but not fused. I found that by not fusing the connection I saw a truer reading. The Voltmeter was not expensive. It is very visible at night... unfortunately during the day when the sun is shining directly on it it is hard to read.

So far my volts have been great! 14.4 with my driving LED lights on. Yellow wires did not heat up. Ill check them again this weekend