97 Non ABS 1100 Front Caliper rebuild kit

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
343
Location
Pearland, Tx.
Bike
97 ST1100 04 ST1300
Looking for recommendations for front caliper rebuild kits!
I replaced the rotors and pads a while ago (pads actually had a small amount of wear already <500 miles when I switched rotors). I went with Delvak (sp way off on that) rotors. Approximately 5 or so thousand later I've developed a rotor rub in the brakes. The bike has 114K miles on it and has had several pad changes and am thinking it might be time to rebuild the calipers. I've only cleaned them "quickly" when I've done pad changes.
Not sure if I have to replace pistons or just the seals, but probably will replace everything since I'll be digging it!
 
I've developed a rotor rub in the brakes.

Never heard that term before. Do you mean a pulsing in the brake lever upon stopping? If so, that indicates a warped rotor, which would question the quality of those aftermarket rotors. Or, maybe you mean the pads never retract from the rotor, causing noticeable drag. A small amount of drag is normal, as the pistons won't retract totally clear of the rotor face, but if it is more than normal, your calipers could stand an overhaul.

Use Honda parts for the rebuild of the caliper. You won't know about the piston condition until you pop them out. If badly corroded, or pitted, replace them too, otherwise seals and a thorough cleaning of the bores might be sufficient.

EDIT: Question, Why did it become necessary to replace the front rotors?
 
I guess a pad rub would have been a better word choice.

The POs at some point didn't do a real good job of maintaining the brakes and the rotors were scraped up. The aftermarkets Delkevic (correct spelling) were recommended as a viable option. I've changed the brake pads several times - some with good pads and another time they "evaporated" after several thousand miles.

All I've done with the calipers prior was spray and wipe. I've never even pulled the pistons - my guess is they are beginning to stick a bit! If I'm in there I figured I'd rebuild them. After posting I found this kit (slightly cheaper on fleabay, same manufacturer) https://www.brakecrafters.com/colle...e-caliper-new-seal-stainless-steel-piston-kit
 
EDIT: Question, Why did it become necessary to replace the front rotors?
I had to replace mine at around 100k miles just because they had worn down below 4.00mm. Dunno if the EBC HH pads had anything to do with it, or simply the fact that I rode the bike very aggressively for many years, or a combination of both. Same story with my FZR1000, at about 100k miles they were worn below the service limit.
 
I would suggest pulling the 2 halves of the calipers Edit (Brake assembly) apart for a cleaning. Also replacing the Pad hangers.
Of course at those miles a full rebuild would also be a good idea.
 
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I’m going through this myself right now. Rebuilding them is easy and somewhat inexpensive. The best part is if you maintain them correctly, you’ll have many, many more miles without issue.

I used Mother Honda seals and, after the pain of popping out the pistons (the hardest part) ordered K&L pistons. Although the intent was to get them done this weekend, FedEx dropped them off at an unknown neighbours house yesterday, so I may be doing yard work instead.

In my case, the pad pins and springs cleaned up nicely in my ultrasonic cleaner so they are reusable.

By the way, Slydynbye, these are one piece calipers so no splitting them.
 
I must be missing something here. These are two piece calipers? I’m new to these but didn’t notice this on mine or the fiche.
 
I think we’re both right here. The calipers are one piece but you should/must remove the carrier, clean and grease both slider pins (9 and 10) and inspect and clean the boots (11 and 12).

The ABS calipers are two piece and can be separated for cleaning, at least as I see it on the fiche.
 
Aladinbama, I just rebuilt mine last month on my '97. Easy job. I got OEM parts and it worked out just fine. The easy way to get those pistons out is to pump 'em MOST of the way out (not all the way!! messy if you do that) then wrap the caliper in a towel and apply some compressed air to the banjo bolt hole. They will literally pop right out a lot of the time. But so will brake fluid, so don't forget the towel.

The hardest part for me was getting the inner seal back in with my big fat fingers!

You will notice a significant difference in braking when complete.
 
There’s the caliper and the caliper bracket.

Easiest way to remove the pistons is to remove the pads and pins and pump them out against a piece of ~5mm (1-4”) plywood. Then use one of these beauties or similar. No spill and no damage to the OD surface of the pistons which you can now polish on a buffing wheel with fine polish. BTDT

OTC 4799 Brake Piston Removal Locking Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S4SZ3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a.GUCbGAA4S1Z

238388

John
 
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Then use one of these beauties or similar.
Why use a tool John? Compressed air with the right thickness strip of wood or metal (about 1/4 in.) behind the piston so they don't shoot across the room, they get loose and fall right out.
Cool tool though. I remember seeing that here before.
 
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I've never seen a tool like that before. I had some unresponsive pistons on a BMW once and the trick that worked was to plug the hose inlet and replace the bleed fitting with a zerk. Then I pumped them full with a grease gun and the pistons gave up without drama or the need to duck flying objects. (though compressed air is always my first attempt).
 
I've actually used that tool before - works pretty well, but I don't have one. I'll use system pressure to get the pistons out. And yes I know, be careful, fluid goes everywhere.
I noticed tonight that I'm missing ONE of the shims under the disk - Right in the spot where the rub is occurring. It was missing when I did the rotor change so I left it out. I don't think it's much and is causing the problem, but they're cheap and I ordered another set.
I'll check it next weekend and hopefully it's something simple and easy. Seals are no biggee!
I've got Oklahoma Rte 66 to do in May!
 
Why use a tool John? Compressed air with the right thickness strip of wood or metal (about 1/4 in.) behind the piston so they don't shoot across the room, they get loose and fall right out.
Cool tool though. I remember seeing that here before.
Not everyone has an air compressor at home. And that doesn’t always work; invariable only one pops leaving the other still stuck. As mentioned above, I too use the 1/4” plywood trick and the pistons didn’t just fall out. Hence the slick tool when I learned of it (Martin Brunner in Austria, IIRC). I had heard of the grease gun trick. Kinda messy, and they still may not come out simultaneously. That’s my take on all this... The tool works great, a welcome addition to my toolbox. YMMV

John
 
A Google search on: “motorcycle brake caliper piston removal tool” gets a lot of hits on different options. Stumbled upon this interesting method of using the tool I have to extract an ST1100 front caliper’s recalcitrant piston.


John
 
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