ABS Light Flashing

barnett468

Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
5
Age
69
Location
california
I am new on the forum but have been reading it for a couple years to find some help with some issues on the ST1300's.

I currently have a 2009 Police model with only only 16,000 miles on it, and the ABS light is flashing.

The bike has always been in the desert so there is zero rust or corrosion on any of it.

The ABS light comes on when the key is turned on and stays solid until it is ridden a few feet at which point it flashes and continues to flash.

The ABS rings on the wheels are clean and not broken.

The ABS sensors are clean.

The tires are the correct size and have the correct amount of air in them.

The secondary piston in the left front caliper that applies the rear brake when the front brakes are applied is clean and working properly.

The F1 light comes on for 2 seconds when the key is turned on then goes out and stays out.

The ABS main, front, and rear fuses are good and have no corrosion on the connectors.

The brake sensitivity is exactly the same as one of these bikes that has properly working ABS.

My fuse boxes do not have letters on them designating what the fuses are for, and instead, they state what they are for ie, "ABS main, ABS ft, Headlights, Battery, etc

I found the link below on how to get the codes from the ABS light to determine what "may" be wrong, however, there are no lettered fuses on my bike, so the procedure does not help me, and the test procedure appears to be incorrect in the "FAULT CODE CLEAR" or "REASSEMBLY" section, because it states to reinstall fuse "M" in both sections which can not be done in the "REASSEMBLY" section because it was already reinstalled in the "FAULT CODE CLEAR" section. It also does not state to reinstall fuse "H" before reassembly.

ABSQuickGuide < ST13 < STWiki

stwiki.notonthe.net stwiki.notonthe.net


Fault Code Clear

Begin the Fault Code Check procedure above.

While the ABS indicator is blinking out the fault code, reinstall the M fuse.

Verify that the ABS indicator remains on after the fault codes are indicated.

Continue the procedure.

Reassembly

Install the M fuse.

Install the left side cover.

Install the front and rear seats.


Thanks in advance for any help.
 
One thing nobody has spoke of yet, most PD motors, whether they were sold at auction, or trade in at dealerships, had almost ALL of the lights/horns/sirens/flashers/and other wires simply cut off and pushed into holes etc. Are there a lot of wires that appear cut off? If so, could something be shorting out against the frame or other part?
 
Igofar said:
One thing nobody has spoke of yet, most PD motors, whether they were sold at auction, or trade in at dealerships, had almost ALL of the lights/horns/sirens/flashers/and other wires simply cut off and pushed into holes etc. Are there a lot of wires that appear cut off? If so, could something be shorting out against the frame or other part?
Click to expand...
I have had around 20 of these bikes and they cut the wires for the police lights but have never had a problem with any of the standard non police functions like lights and abs etc.
 
jfheath said:
Not an expert on the ST1300 ABS.

But - if the bike doesn't recognise that the wheels are turning at the same speed when it first starts rolling, it will not arm the ABS system, and throw the fault.
This could be due to damaged sensors, incorrect air gap between the sensor and the pulsar ring, faulty wiring / connectors to the sensors, faulty ABS pumps, wiring or connectors.

It could also be to do with the fuses. There are two of them one for the front ABS pump (modulator), one for the rear - plus another for the ABS system as a whole.



The table below - pinched from a wiring schematic posted on this site shows which fuse is which letter. A-G are in one fuse box, H to M are in the other.

I know that on the 1100, if the reservoir was over full - as it can be if the fluid has been topped up half way through the life of the brake pads. When the pads are replaced, there will be more fluid in the system than when it was filled when the pads were new. So there is no room in the system to allow the modulators to cycle and release pressure. Motors cannot turn, so the fuses blow.

But it sounds as though it is a fault with the system getting information from the sensors, otherwise the fault would pop up before you started riding.

Are you setting off on a bumpy road or dropping of a kerb perhaps ? That would cause a fault.

Check the sensors for strands of wire (say from a wire brush). The face of the sensor is magnetic and will attract such foreign objects.

The air gap might be at fault (for example) if the front wheel has not been installed correctly - as it changes the relationship between the wheel with the pulsar ring and the fork leg with the sensor attached.

Hopefully someone can come along and fill in the gaps.

Please let us know what you find

Note - I think that the ABS system has to be armed and the fault arise when the bike is running for it to display a fault code. I have a trick for testing the sensors for the 1100, involving putting the ECM into fault recovery mode and then spinning the wheels. I haven't a clue whether a similar trick can be used with the 1300. Fortunately, my sensors have been quite reliable so far.

But brakes still work perfectly well for riding, but you need to be carful braking hard, as there is no ABS to kick in if the wheel locks. But it is unusual for it to kick in anyway.

View attachment 249864


Link to schematic

Article [13] - ST1300 - Wiring Schematics for 03-07 Standard | ST1300 Articles

My previous bike's manual had a color coded wiring schematics and it was very easy for follow the wires. After becoming cross eyed looking at the B/W ST1300 schematics, I'd decided to create a colored version. I might have missed a line or a description here or there, so if you happen to see a...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

Post #3 has the one you need.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all of that.

I am riding and perfectly smooth streets. No frayed wires from what i can tell and everything basically looks showroom new, and since it only has 16k miles, nothing other than the brake pads could have worn out in that time.

I will try the code test again today and post my results or my failure, lol.
.
 
barnett468 said:
Thanks for all of that.

I am riding and perfectly smooth streets. No frayed wires from what i can tell and everything basically looks showroom new, and since it only has 16k miles, nothing other than the brake pads could have worn out in that time.

I have herd about the air gap but since there was no problem when the bike was new, nothing has occured to change the air gap, plus from what i can see, it is not adjustable anyway.
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I will try the code test again today and post my results or my failure, lol.
.
Click to expand...
 
I don't know about the Honda ABS system but I have a BMW r1100rt that will give me an ABS fault when ever my battery needs to be replaced. The bike starts just fine but fails the ABS test until I ride it for a few miles, or replace the battery.
 
jfheath said:
Ah - I have mis-interpreted this. If it is not blinking then going to step 4 continues with the fault diagnosis - ie there is a fault. If it is blinking, then that is as it should be and it is suggesting possible reasons for the fault code being thrown.
Click to expand...

Phew! I am not crazy.
I am glad to read this correction John. Since your original post #8 I have been wondering to myself what is he on about? I wasn't drawing the same conclusion from the diagnostic tree as you were. Since you are always very thorough with your research and posts I have been thinking to myself that I must not be seeing something that he is and was wondering what is wrong with me?
 
Did the code readout test and it is code 5, so unfortunately, I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.
 
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