OP
OP
My light bar came with Posi-taps. working well now.
Admore Light Bar installation
- Thread starter docw1
- Start date
ST Gui
240Robert
That's a 3M Scotchlok Tap. They're notorious for going bad as in corroding and/or losing positive connections. Quick and dirty with emphasis on dirty. They have worked well for some people I'm sure. That they're still on the market after decades of bad service bears this out.
You've found out as squeezing the connector affects the operation. The Posi-Tap connectors mentioned are far superior to the Scotchloks. Some here don't like piercing the insulation and prefer making harness or tapping a connector. You've already got a cut in the insulation so a Posi-Tap would work well in that situation.
<shiver> those Scotch-locks are awful...
Inside is a V-shaped blade that cuts through the insulation of the wire it tabs into, supposed of only "touching" the strains inside, whilst cutting over half of them...
Not sealed is this then not only prone to mechanically braking the (expensive) OEM wiring, it also leads to corrosion...
<shiver> those Scotch-locks are awful...
Inside is a V-shaped blade that cuts through the insulation of the wire it tabs into, supposed of only "touching" the strains inside, whilst cutting over half of them...
Not sealed is this then not only prone to mechanically braking the (expensive) OEM wiring, it also leads to corrosion...
Yeah. Had a look at them online. Looks like a mini "guillotine", taking a big bite into the wire.
Makes me wonder now about the best way to remove this ScotchLock tap without further damaging the wire?
And it was also installed right at the back of the brake light housing, not easy to reach and not much wiring length left if a repair is needed.
I ordered the 12-18 AWG Posi Tap. Is it the correct size for this wiring?
Thanks.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
If the OEM wire is damaged to the point that you determine that repairing it is in order you can always use the light bar wire as a repair wire and accomplish a solid connection at the same time time. Remove some of the insulation from the OEM wire and smooth out the strands of it. Then wrap the light bar wire around it to reinforce it and solder the two together. To seal it I would apply liquid electrical tape to the joint and then cover it with a heat shrink. They do sell heat shrink in a tee shape, some even have a glue in them that melts and seals the joint as they are heated.
If there is enough wire to crimp a connector on to it you can get connectors designed to connect three (or multiple) wires together. Cut the OEM wire at the damged point and insert the two ends of it along with the light bar wire in to one of these connectors to accomplish the repair and make the connection at the same time. Generally speaking connectors are a better choice on vehicle wiring than solder joints if they are properly done with quality connectors.
If there is enough wire to crimp a connector on to it you can get connectors designed to connect three (or multiple) wires together. Cut the OEM wire at the damged point and insert the two ends of it along with the light bar wire in to one of these connectors to accomplish the repair and make the connection at the same time. Generally speaking connectors are a better choice on vehicle wiring than solder joints if they are properly done with quality connectors.
Replaced the Scotch-Lock with a Posi-Tap and the bar is turn-blinking again. Thanks!
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No pictures of the result?