After hashing through the 1300 vs 1100 battery I would give this recommendation. If you pick up a YUSA battery for the 1300 at a good price as mentioned in the link above this will give you a very good battery (much better than generics out there at the same price). You should look at making a shim of some sort (small board under the battery to ensure that it is secure in the bike. It will give a bit of weight savings as well. This all sounds good but there is a bit of a trade off. You have an older 1100 as I do and most likely have the same 28 amp alternator that I have. The only real issue that I can see is that the 1300 battery is going to have a lower capacity so should your charging system give out on you, the bike would not last as long as it would with the proper battery. How much difference is hard to say. If you haven't added a means to monitor the charging system on the bike, this really doesn't matter all that much as you won't have much of a warning until the bike dies. If dark out you might notice the lights dimming a bit but by then you are on your last leg anyhow.
So if paying full price a YUSA I would go for the proper 1100 battery. I am running a generic one in my 1100 now and it has been fine for the last 5 years. However if the 1300 YUSA battery can be had for $65 shipped, that is a really good deal and I would take that over the generic one for the 1100. I wouldn't pay $200+ for one because the YUSA 1100 spec battery normally runs about $110. If the 1300 battery cannot be bought cheap, then it is a personal decision on if you want a generic one for $60-70 or $110 for a YUSA. As long as the generic one can put out around 200 CCA it doesn't matter much. I am going with the 1300 battery in my 1100. Mainly because I have one that is almost new sitting on my workbench. While the battery in my 1100 still works, it is getting old and it would be better to keep the one from the 1300 in use at this point. If I didn't have it I would keep running the old one until it started showing signs of age.
Keep in mind that CCA really doesn't tell you capacity. CCA tells you what the peak Amp output is of the battery when cold. Typically this is a rating at 0F. Since you are from a northern state you know how it is harder for a battery to start an engine the colder it is. Partly because it is harder to turn over the engine with thicker oil and such but also because the battery is outputting less amps. Since your additional accessories are not on while cranking, CCA don't mean as much. It is more of a measurement for starting requirements as that is the only time you put a big load on a battery. There is a capacity measure many times found on batteries. This will tell you how much power they can provide. How long they can continue to provide 12V out with a given load. This is what will come into play should your charging system give out. This is probably the most important thing to consider. That and add a voltmeter or some other charging system monitor (there are a few options out there) which is a good idea no matter what you have if you are running a 28 amp alternator.
