Antigravity jump start harness

drtyrrel

drtyrrel

Joined
Feb 3, 2017
Messages
776
Location
Schroon Lake, NY
Bike
2010 ST-1300
antigravitybatteries.com

16″ Clampless Starting Harness

16-inch Harness (MSA-10TP) to easily jump-start your vehicle using XP-1 (Gen 1) or XP-3 Micro-Start, without jumper clamps or removing motorcycle seat.
antigravitybatteries.com antigravitybatteries.com

I'm thinking about adding one of these to my bike. I was wondering if anybody makes an adapter for the end so it will go to an SAE plug for a regular battery tender. I would also like to be able to use it for my air pump and possibly heated jacket liner. I saw one on an older Fortnine video on 10 minute winterizing your bike (2017). I cant find anything on the antigravity website though.
 
My only concerns would be if the wire gauge and fuse would be also safe to use with the other devices (tender should be ok but heated liner and especially air pump would draw a lot of current.)

I also raised my eyebrows at the online safety note:
"Never leave the Micro-Start connected to your vehicle’s battery for longer than 30 seconds, or use in place of your regular battery in your vehicle."
 
If that’s a diode in the red wire, to prevent wrong polarity connection, it would only allow current into the battery, but not out.

I’ve been meaning to add one of those cables to each of my bikes, since my Antigravity XP-10 battery is in my tool bag that goes with me, whatever I ride. The battery clamps that came with the jump battery are almost impossible to use on a bike.

I run my heated gear off a SAE battery tender pigtail, but run my Antigravity air pump from the jump battery. The AG pump came with a short cord that plugs into a separate 12V outlet on the battery.

John
 
Nashcat said:
If that’s a diode in the red wire, to prevent wrong polarity connection, it would only allow current into the battery, but not out.

I’ve been meaning to add one of those cables to each of my bikes, since my Antigravity XP-10 battery is in my tool bag that goes with me, whatever I ride. The battery clamps that came with the jump battery are almost impossible to use on a bike.

I run my heated gear off a SAE battery tender pigtail, but run my Antigravity air pump from the jump battery. The AG pump came with a short cord that plugs into a separate 12V outlet on the battery.

John
Click to expand...
That is a diode. I guess it wouldn't work to power anything. Thanks
 
I just made a tender SAE connection out of 10ga wire. I have converted my AG end to SAE. That way I can power things off the bike battery if needed and also jump start if needed. I also put an SAE end on the AG clamps so it can be used to jump cars if needed. You can buy 10ga SAE connectors at most RV parts places or even Harbor Freight or Amazon. All you have to remember is to ensure that the polarity is right.
 
Sorry I can't help much, but this does remind me that I need to add an SAE jumper connection while I'm adding electrics for heated jacket & USB this week.
 
Oldbikefixr said:
Someone did that, thus the caution.
Click to expand...
And that's pretty typical of most jump starters. The 30s limit is probably somewhat arbitrary. It might actually be a full minute or two. The idea is to connect the unit to the battery/start the bike/disconnect the jump starter. Done. It doesn't have the capacity to fully charge a battery just give it a nudge.

We don't know that hickey in the POS cable it is at this point. A-G isn't very forthcoming. The connector end is polarized and the cables are color coded so it's hard (yeah it's possible) to screw that up. That alone should be reverse polarity protection but who knows.

SAE connectors max out at ~15A so they're the limit regardless of what cable is connected to them – they can no doubt handle more for short periods FWIW.

They're pretty proud of their kit. Small HiPO jump starters (maybe not as small) can be much cheaper but it's a nice touch to build in relatively seamless connectivity. DIY costs some labor equity but can be done cheaper.
 
I have a female flush-mount SAE connector installed on the side of my ST 1300, very close to where the battery is. I plug my battery tender into it - I was not comfortable with the loose battery tender pigtail (the usual connection method) floating around under the seat, and it was a PITA to get at it because I have a Corbin smuggler installed.

I suppose that I could plug some small accessory (phone charger, USB converter, etc.) into it and draw power out, but I have not tried doing that.

I would be very apprehensive about trying to jump-start the bike through a SAE connector. The inrush current needed for starting is very high - just look at the thickness of the cables that connect the battery to the starter relay. Besides, a SAE connector hooked up to the battery should be fused for safety, and it would take one heck of a big fuse to enable starting current to be passed through it.

Michael

Flush-Mount SAE Connector (for Trickle Charger hookup)
Charging Connector.jpg
 
Unless using heavier-gauge jumper cables, if I had only an SAE connection, I would connect the bike's cable to the power source, and let the dead battery charge for a while, and not attempt to start it right away.
 
I have the SAE connector from my battery outside of my seat just under the passenger grab rail. I converted my Halo Bolt jumper cables (spare set) to SAE so I can plug it in to jump start the bike. Figured this out long ago when I had to remove the seat, side cover, jump start the bike, then couldn't put the seat back on because the key was in the ignition and I needed to take it out to close the seat latch. LOL
 
1100 different from a 1300 maybe? The seat might latch fine but you need the key to lock the cover down on the grab handle.
 
Whooshka said:
1100 different from a 1300 maybe? The seat might latch fine but you need the key to lock the cover down on the grab handle.
Click to expand...
Yes, very different. On the ST11, turning of the key just retracts a spring loaded latch to remove the seat. To install, just snap the seat in, no key needed.
 
Larry Fine said:
I would connect the bike's cable to the power source, and let the dead battery charge for a while, and not attempt to start it right away.
Click to expand...
This is what I thought I'd do with mine but the instructions state not to do that. I'm not sure what kind of magic smoke is inside the box. In one discection there were layers of Li cells of some formulation. Some claim it's a giant capacitor. Maybe in some devices its both. No idea. Until I know otherwise I'll keep close to the instructions — maybe allowing a minute to "wake up" the battery is sufficient especially in cases where bump starting would work if you were of a mind to bump start.

paulcb said:
Yes, very different. On the ST11, turning of the key just retracts a spring loaded latch to remove the seat. To install, just snap the seat in, no key needed.
Click to expand...
I've removed and installed the seat on my 1300 enough that I don't pay attention to doing it. The key is needed to remove — it opens a cover which a) allows the panniers to be lifted off or installed and b) allows access to the lever that releases the seat.

But IIRC (and there's no guarantee that I do) the cover can be closes and the key removed and then still install the seat. No key needed. That's not how I usually do it though.

Can the key be removed from the 1100's panniers without locking them? Not possible in the civilian 1300 but I think it's possible in the STPA.
 
ST Gui said:
Can the key be removed from the 1100's panniers without locking them? Not possible in the civilian 1300 but I think it's possible in the STPA.
Click to expand...
Yes. I routinely leave mine unlocked. Usually, the only time I lock them is when I'm parked overnight at a hotel. After spending several weeks and several thousand miles on an ST13, I realize how much I like the way the ST11 seat and pannier locks work... I hate the fiddle factor on the ST13.
 
drtyrrel said:
antigravitybatteries.com

16″ Clampless Starting Harness

16-inch Harness (MSA-10TP) to easily jump-start your vehicle using XP-1 (Gen 1) or XP-3 Micro-Start, without jumper clamps or removing motorcycle seat.
antigravitybatteries.com antigravitybatteries.com

I'm thinking about adding one of these to my bike. I was wondering if anybody makes an adapter for the end so it will go to an SAE plug for a regular battery tender. I would also like to be able to use it for my air pump and possibly heated jacket liner. I saw one on an older Fortnine video on 10 minute winterizing your bike (2017). I cant find anything on the antigravity website though.
Click to expand...

Thought this EC5 to SAE cable might work:

Amazon.com: EC5 to SAE Cable,EC5 F/M Plug to SAE Connector Power Automotive Cable Wire 10AWG for Car Motor Solar Panel Batteries (EC5 Female+EC5 Male): Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: EC5 to SAE Cable,EC5 F/M Plug to SAE Connector Power Automotive Cable Wire 10AWG for Car Motor Solar Panel Batteries (EC5 Female+EC5 Male): Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com

...but it looks like yr harness is for a "Newer" XP1....which has a non-standard EC5 it seems! Glad you posted as I hadn't noticed. It means that only a Newer XP1/3 will fit the harness, but none of the other packs that you or your friends might have, that have the standard EC5....unless this New AG modified EC5 connector becomes the standard!
 
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After my battery died and I borrowed one of the jump starting Lithium packs for a weekend. I became an expert at removing and replacing the side panel. When I got home, I bought a 3' piece of #6 awg welding cable and cut it in half. I crimped an eye on the end of each piece and a barrel lug on the other end. One was painted red, and when I found the paint remained sticky for a week, I covered the 18" length with red electrician's tape. These 'pigtails' were attached to the battery and led to the pocket under the seat. I had slipped a piece of vinyl tubing over the positive (red) lead's end, and taped it to be sure the insulating tubing did not slip off. These are my jumper cables, readily accessible by lifting the seat. They are not as convenient as a connector for other accessories or regular charging (I used an Accumate adapter pigtail and later, a Shorai charger pigtail) but perfect for the occasional jump. I'd never trust a #10 or #12 awg wire to carry starting current for jumping. Sooner or later, extended use of the starter (if the bike does not fire up) will melt the insulation. Then, should it short out, will present a demonstration of the energy stored in a bike's battery.
 
SMSW said:
One was painted red, and when I found the paint remained sticky for a week, I covered the 18" length with red electrician's tape.

I had slipped a piece of vinyl tubing over the positive (red) lead's end, and taped it to be sure the insulating tubing did not slip off.
Click to expand...
Red heat-shrink tubing. ;)
 
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