Are these forks serviceable?

[Obo]

I replaced the fork springs and rear shock on my 1300 last year. I ordered springs from Traxxion Dynamics and picked up new bushings and seals and oil from the dealer. It was perfect timing to adjust the oil weight as well. The process was pretty simple as well.

Looks like you have it all under control. As someone mentioned about the Seal Buddy. You should make yourself one. It's easy. I've used mine a few times because I find myself on gravel roads. Any debris really is a problem. Wondering if your proximity to the ocean has anything to do with the corrosion?

My two cents.
Dave

Already have the DIY seal mates from the other bike. They did nothing for STella, plus she needed a lot of fluid replaced.

All the parts are OEM except for the upgraded springs I ordered.

Got a set of Racetech 1.0kg ones from Fortnine.

Working on installing them tonight but adding in the spacers for the preload is proving a challenge by myself.

I've got 2 spacers in but need at least 2-3 more. Using the 12mm wrench as a pry is proving to be a challenge with the preload washers. I need to come up with a way to hold the OEM spacer snugly and apply a downward force so I can put more preload washers in and then get the cap back on.

The Racetechs call for 25mm of preload but I'm only getting about 20 currently.

 

[dduelin]

Already have the DIY seal mates from the other bike. They did nothing for STella, plus she needed a lot of fluid replaced.

All the parts are OEM except for the upgraded springs I ordered.

Got a set of Racetech 1.0kg ones from Fortnine.

Working on installing them tonight but adding in the spacers for the preload is proving a challenge by myself.

I've got 2 spacers in but need at least 2-3 more. Using the 12mm wrench as a pry is proving to be a challenge with the preload washers. I need to come up with a way to hold the OEM spacer snugly and apply a downward force so I can put more preload washers in and then get the cap back on.

The Racetechs call for 25mm of preload but I'm only getting about 20 currently.

My situation was different in that I used the stock springs and a single longer than stock spacer but it was a task getting the spring stack compressed and the fork cap threaded on. What worked for me was to press straight down on the rachet handle with the 17mm hex in the fork cap with the palm of one hand and turn the fork tube with the other hand. Rather than trying to press the cap down and turn it press the cap down and screw the tube onto it.

 

[Obo]

My situation was different in that I used the stock springs and a single longer than stock spacer but it was a task getting the spring stack compressed and the fork cap threaded on. What worked for me was to press straight down on the rachet handle with the 17mm hex in the fork cap with the palm of one hand and turn the fork tube with the other hand. Rather than trying to press the cap down and turn it press the cap down and screw the tube onto it.

I'm not having issues getting the cap to thread into the fork tube (well yet anyways....)

I'm still trying to get the 25mm of preload between the cap and the OEM spacer. The OEM spacer is what I'm having issue with getting it pushed down to put in the spacers and apply the cap.

I may try to make something like this to clamp on the OEM spacer.

 

[dwalby]

1100 owner, so no experience with the 1300 forks, but if they're like the cartridge side on the 1100 why not just make a new spacer out of 1" PVC pipe and forget about putting in the individual spacers on top of the OEM?

 

[Obo]

Well the first blown fork is done and back in temporarily. (until the 2nd is done so I can align them)

Ended up needing 4 of the Racetech washer shims to get the required preload. 5 might have been better but 4 was still a PITA. Had to make a tool as the 12mm & 14mm wrench method kept getting caught in the washer stack and bending them so that they were unusable. Also needed more hands so Mrs. Obo to the rescue. Using two hands I used the tool to compress the stack down, with the theaded end of the rebound rod sticking up thru the gap in the tool. Mrs. Obo then threaded the nut on to the rod. That allowed me to then put the cap on and torque it, then as I pulled the spacer downward Mrs. Obo removed the tool and we realigned the washer stack.



Like Dave suggested, when I was putting the cap back into the fork I pushed down with the 17mm hex and spun the fork tube to get it to start.



Second fork removed and disassembled with some challenges. Cap was stuck on HARD, as were the 2 lower pinch bolts. Needed an impact gun to break the cap free. (Yes, the top pinch bolt was loose and the bottom two were still tight.) Lower bolt for the preload rod was seized. Even tried an impact gun to loosen it. Ended up using a 2' -3' long adjustable wrench on the allen key for brute leverage. Looked like epoxy glue was used in the bolt hole (along with Loctite) and the copper washer was seized in said glue and had to be pried out. I then had to use mineral spirits and a torch to loosen the "glue" and scrape it out with a long screwdriver. <shrug>

Internally it too will need some R&R as it was actually in worse shape than the first one. It had multiple rust spots and a buildup on the top of the piston rod and the fork cap that looked like blackstrap molasses mixed with tree sap. I'm about 99% certain the rust is coming from the backup ring, even though they should have oil around some of them. The seal was shot too with lots of crud in it.

The R&R for the second should be relatively easier now that I know what to do, and how to do it.

Here's some photos of the 2nd.

 

[catcher]

Wow, not for the faint of heart! Your tenacity is impressive!

 

[ST1100Y]

Second fork removed and disassembled with some challenges. Cap was stuck on HARD, as were the 2 lower pinch bolts. Needed an impact gun to break the cap free. (Yes, the top pinch bolt was loose and the bottom two were still tight.) Lower bolt for the preload rod was seized. Even tried an impact gun to loosen it. Ended up using a 2' -3' long adjustable wrench on the allen key for brute leverage. Looked like epoxy glue was used in the bolt hole (along with Loctite) and the copper washer was seized in said glue and had to be pried out. I then had to use mineral spirits and a torch to loosen the "glue" and scrape it out with a long screwdriver. <shrug>

Internally it too will need some R&R as it was actually in worse shape than the first one. It had multiple rust spots and a buildup on the top of the piston rod and the fork cap that looked like blackstrap molasses mixed with tree sap. I'm about 99% certain the rust is coming from the backup ring, even though they should have oil around some of them. The seal was shot too with lots of crud in it.
Here's some photos of the 2nd.

Out of interest: this is your '03 ST and when was the last overhaul done?

 

[Obo]

Out of interest: this is your '03 ST and when was the last overhaul done?

I've owned it just under 4 years so no idea about the history. It's safe to assume there was oil and filter done in the last 20 years but that's about it.

So far I've done rear diff fluid, antifreeze, clutch flush, oil & filter, air filter and some farkle upgrades like LED's, driving lights, horn, trailer hitch etc. Replacing brake fluid was planned for when I was doing all the work this Spring but didn't get done. A bit of avoidance and a bit of worry what I will find when I get into it has me in hover mode on it. It's definitely been over the 2 year mark for me, and like I said it may never have been done..... I'm aware hovering won't make it go away nor make it any better, rather it can only make it worse. If I had a crystal ball I might as well buy an SMC now just because of the failure rate I've seen here. I have the OEM pads already (and my Motion Pro bleeder) for when do I tackle it.

The bike's lived all of it's life by the ocean so I'd say she's done well for 20 years in the salty environment.

 

[Obo]

Second fork done and installed.

It didn't want to take the top bush and required more time and force than it should have to get it in and seated. The other fork was so easy it pushed in by hand with the tool.

I did forget to measure the preload sapcers on it, but the fluid was the same as was the number of Racetech spacers I added. I remembered AFTER I had it all back together that I'd forgotten when I went to put the caliper away....

Riser, handlebars, brake calipers and fender reinstalled. Just need to install the front wheel tomorrow night and then test it out!

Assuming that's all OK, it'll need to get some trial usage Tuesday & Wednesday before I hit the road Thursday after work for WoodSToc....

I'm soooo hoping it's OK and that it feels better with the changes in springs & fluid weight.

 

[nt650hawk]

https://www.amazon.com/cotton-Treated-Yellow-Buffing-Polishing/dp/B07QJ4BW5N

I use this in a drill press and polish my fork tubes and caliper pistons and pins to remove any and all dirt and grime. You won't believe what comes off!!!!!!

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

I'm soooo hoping it's OK and that it feels better with the changes in springs & fluid weight.

How does it feel?

 

[nt650hawk]

I'm not having issues getting the cap to thread into the fork tube (well yet anyways....)

I'm still trying to get the 25mm of preload between the cap and the OEM spacer. The OEM spacer is what I'm having issue with getting it pushed down to put in the spacers and apply the cap.

I may try to make something like this to clamp on the OEM spacer.

i used a 2x4 piece of oak from a pallet. Used a hole saw to create a hole larger that the fork, drilled and tapped 2 holes for a threaded rod to screw into the preload spacer holes. For the catch, I used a 4x4 electrical cover and slotted it wide enough to slide past the rod.

 

[Obo]

How does it feel?

As discussed in person at WoodSToc with you it's planted well but doesn't take the patched pavement very well. That may also be a function of highlighting the tiredness of the rear shock.

Still to early do decided. Only have ridden 1329kms on it in the last 5 days.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Did you make any changes since this? How does the bike ride now?

 

[Obo]

As the forks have had time to settle in, the whole setup still feels awful overall compared to what I remember before having to do the work, but I've not made any other changes except added some preload to the rear for 2 up riding. I've also got some tire scalloping on the front and rear and rear squaring that liekly are not helping things.

I should reset the rear suspension preload and rebound and redo it to see if that helps. New tires are in the approaching future to help, likely with the rear getting darksided.

However the front end isn't diving like pre-upgrade, so that's a plus

I've just been riding it like I stole it and coming to accept it as is for now.

My wife suggested perhaps I'm just tired of working on it and need a new bike.

 

[Sunday Rider]

As long as it doesn't bottom out and you don't pogo stick over pot holes you should be good. Do you feel well planted when you take a corner fast?
New bike, different things to consider I guess.

 

[Sadlsor]

I should reset the rear suspension preload and rebound and redo it to see if that helps. New tires are in the approaching future to help, likely with the rear getting darksided.

Is there any oil left in the hydraulic preload adjuster?
I may have missed it if you've already checked... this is something I know I need to do on my '08. Lots of clicks there, and ain't nothin' happenin'.
But just putting that CT out back has improved the ride measurably. Guess I should have said, "noticeably", because we all know I don't have a calibrated seat-of-the-pants... we've covered that previously.

 

[Obo]

Is there any oil left in the hydraulic preload adjuster?
I may have missed it if you've already checked... this is something I know I need to do on my '08. Lots of clicks there, and ain't nothin' happenin'.
But just putting that CT out back has improved the ride measurably. Guess I should have said, "noticeably", because we all know I don't have a calibrated seat-of-the-pants... we've covered that previously.

I did the full service (drain, flush, oil replace, replace lost detent ball bearing...) on the preload adjuster on it May 17th so it should be good.

I'm guessing the new springs have done a couple of things. 1. raised the front end higher 2. changed the geometry of the bike when loaded 3. showed the tiredness of the rear spring.

All the extra stuff wearing (tires etc) just adds to the overall combination of things feeling off.