Back for More (or less)

Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
199
Location
Lafayette, LA
Bike
2014 Yamaha FJR
Back for more (or less)

March 2024



My winter motorcycle tour this year was eventful, as all of them usually are. My good friend John trailered down from South Dakota, and we were joined by my good friend Mike, who lives 5 miles from me. The 3 of us had a nice time wandering to Crystal River, Florida to attend the 5th Florida Winter Gathering FJR event, hosted by my good friend Dan. The irrefutable pattern here is that I have a LOT of good friends, but I’ll get to that later.



Our plan was to continue south past Dan’s to Key West Florida, and then return up the Atlantic seashore to Daytona and other points of interest. As you will see, things changed. General Eisenhower was quite astute: Indeed, plans are useless, but planning is indispensable.



The winters in the deep south are wonderful. Really in some context, it’s the best weather we have because it is fairly predictable. A cold front will pass through the region quickly. We will get 3-12 hours of nasty winds and potentially rain. Then the skies will clear and we will have 2-6 days of wonderful temperatures. It’s a nice time for northerners to get away from their winter. John has done this here before and this year, he came back for more. I hope you enjoy the pics.



Day 1: Lafayette, LA to Roxie, Mississippi. Approximately 350 miles.



John arrived yesterday evening and Mike came over to enjoy a nice Cajun meal (Crawfish Etoufee)



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We discussed ideas about the trip over after dinner sippies and I finished packing my horse for the road.



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On Wednesday morning, after breakfast and coffee, we endured a few miles of the interstate to get out of town. After that, we started enjoying the back country.



This is a fine example of an Acadian style house, the most common architectural style used by the Cajun people before “modern life” took over. Based on the materials used, I estimate this house to be 125 years old. It has features on it that make it more adaptable to our climate here. Things like a high-pitched roof (heat rises and escapes), deep and wide front porch (added shade), and a raised foundation on piers of non-rotting material (to withstand flash flooding).



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We ran around False River Lake, crossed the big muddy River, and turned north into the State of Mississippi.



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I’ve always been fascinated with the State borders. Even though some of them are not well defined, if you look close, you can see the changes in topography, geology, and other natural features. Here, the soil gets much more sandy.



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We wiggled through the pine forest and ended up in Natchez, MS for lunch.



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This area of town is called “Under the Hill”. It was originally a river trading post with a bunch of buildings built in the middle of a large bluff. Today, there are bars and restaurants and other interest for tourist.



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Mike and I have eaten lunch at The Camp many times before. The food and service is quite good.



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After lunch, we hopped onto the Natchez Trace Parkway for a few miles. The ride on this road is unique. Immediately, you are transformed and taken away from the hustle and bustle of the real world. Traffic is virtually nonexistent and the set back on each side of the parkway makes it quite easy to see everything. The speed limit is only 50 mph and the curves are slow to bend, but it is quite relaxing, to say the least.



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I led us to a sight that I thought John might be interested in.



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Emerald Mound is an enormous ceremonial structure constructed by indigenous people of the Mississippian Period.



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Archeologists have studied this area extensively, but are quick to admit that there is still much that they do not know. The insatiable man of science, Mike is doing some studying of his own.



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The Natchez trace is a nice place to poke around. There are numerous stops like this that tell the history of this land and the people that inhabited it.



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Hang with us, John. We got some more stuff to show ya!



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We hopped off the trace and ran a short distance up the river to our next stop, the Windsor Ruins.



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This is what’s left of a Civil War era cotton plantation that was destroyed by fire. The Corinthian style columns are magnificent.



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In Port Gibson, we turned east on Hwy 462, a ribbon of freshly paved, silky smooth pavement with a nice mixture of sweepers. I downshifted a gear and put the heat to the ole girl. Not much to worry about in these sticks on a Wednesday afternoon.



I stopped at this old store looking for ice cream. Unfortunately, no ice cream in stock, so we bought a soda pop and sat on the porch to chew the fat a while.



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We are now in the thick of the famous Mississippi Blues Trail. To anyone born after WWII, this is where our music comes from.



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It’s a fine day for a ride.



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When one rides with Pants, one has to be ready to accept the fact that I lose track of time. This is how I roll. I don’t get to caught up in the time when I’m on a motorcycle tour. A big part of this for me is to let go of the “real world”. Here, wherever that is, the world is mine and I can do what I want, when I want.



That usually means that time gets away from me. Today was no exception. Indeed, time flies when you are having fun, and we were having a blast. None the less, the sun is falling fast and we are quite a way from our destination for the evening. In that light, I changed to a more direct route and in an hour or so, we arrived at Clear Springs Campground near Roxie, MS.



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Kind of warm this evening, so no campfire and thusly, no gathering of fire wood. Therefore, we will cook otherwise. Mike handled the beans.



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John took care of the veggies.



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And I cooked the pig.



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Bon Appetite!



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A fine start to a fine trip.



Day 2: Roxie, MS to Perdido Key, FL. Approx 300 miles



I stayed on top of the sleeping bag last night as the temperature was a bit warm. After coffee and breakfast, we packed up the horses and pointed them southeast.



The riding in Mississippi is pretty good. There are HUGE chunks of the State with very few people and for the most part, the roads are in decent shape. I’m leading us generally toward the Gulf Coast. Using the paper map on my tank bag, as well as my GPS, I’m basically routing us on the fly about 50 miles at a time. I’m just picking whatever roads look the curviest and within some State or National Forest and are going generally in the direction I want to go.



Again, this is what touring with Pants looks like. I don’t care to have a daily route pre-loaded into the GPS, and then I just follow the electronic breadcrumbs. I want the option at a crossroads to go either way. I want to be surprised with that “thing” that just can’t be passed up. I’m ok with a general direction and even a planned stopping point for the evening. But between now and then, there is much adventure to be found, and I hope to find as much of it as I can.



About 11:00 am, quite literally in the middle of absolutely nowhere, we flew by this place.



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It’s a bit early, but I saw quite a few pickup trucks parked there, so I turned around and declared “lunch”. In general, on the motorcycle, if I get a choice, I’m going to pick lunch early for two reasons. First, after noon, it usually gets busy and you end up spending a lot more time than you need to. And second, when I’m “freestyling it” through the back country, sometimes restaurants are hard to come by. When you see something that looks decent, you take it.



The food and service were good. Bellies full, we re-mounted the horses and I pointed us south. As we crossed the Interstate, we stopped for gas and, well….. if you know, you know.



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Now in southern Alabama, we turn further south toward the coast. The water in Mobile Bay is still quite cool and instantly we could feel a significant and welcome temperature drop.



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I can see John back there.



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We crossed onto Dauphin Island at the coast.



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And then we stopped at this place.



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The others didn’t want to pay the admission price, and I’ve already seen the fort from the inside. Still, it’s a pretty cool place just to wander around.



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From here, the easiest way to get across Mobile Bay is to take the ferry.



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Light winds and calm waves made for a pleasant ride.



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A retired Naval Commander, John is understandably unimpressed.



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Peace be with you, my friend.



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Good to know the Coast Guard is on watch.



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We get off the ferry and the coastal highway is quite fine.



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Welcome to Florida, gents!



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We are cruising the coast.



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John has a friend he served in the Navy with that lives in Perido Key, Florida. He made arrangements for us to stay with them tonight. Even though John’s friend was stuck out of State, he and his wife insisted that we come anyway.



This place is amazing. No sooner had we removed our riding gear when Ms. Sandy offered us a cold beer and a view!



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We went out to eat and the shrimp salad was delicious.



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After dinner, Ms. Sandy asked us if we like Tequila. Man, this just keeps getting better and better!



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Another good day.



Day 3: Perido Key, FL to Crystal River, FL. Approximately 400 miles.



I slept like a baby on a firm mattress, and after coffee and breakfast, we loaded up and headed East. Last night, I spread out the map and determined that we are a good 400 miles from our destination. So today, we will keep detours to a minimum and take our stints in larger chunks.



We stopped somewhere for lunch (not overly impressive, as I recall), and in the afternoon, we ran through some prescribed burns in the Apalachicola National Forest.



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The smoke wasn’t too thick, but I was glad to get through it and move on.



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As you can see, the roads here are board straight and very flat, but I was content to just sit there and twist that. Sometimes I like a ride like that, where you can zone into your music and just sit there and enjoy the solitude and the pleasant hum of the engine.



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Looking forward to my afternoon treat didn’t hurt much either.



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In Perry, FL, we turned south toward what the locals call The Nature Coast. This is my favorite part of Florida as it is generally less inhabited and more natural. Late in the afternoon, we arrived safe in Crystal River. Our friends Dan and Tina are hosting their 5th annual Florida Winter Gathering (FWG) event for us and others like us. We set up our tents on the spacious property, went out to eat dinner at a nearby bar/grill, and then enjoyed a campfire into the evening.



I’m having a good time.
 
Day 4: Sightseeing at Crystal River, Florida.



After about 6 ounces of shampoo last night, I slept like a rock. Dan’s coffee is good and the cooler morning breeze was welcome. We were thinking about going kayaking today, but the weather was kind of iffy and a stuff wind in the forecast gave us cause for pause.



Instead, we decided to go Manatee watching. It’s a quick jaunt to the river.



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Good morning to you, Bob! Looking quite well.



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Our first stop was at a city park. It’s a nice place to gather.



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The birds are enjoying their winter home.



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From there, we moved on to another spring nearby.



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Seemed like it only took 10 minutes to get there.



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There is an admission charge, but this place is very well done.



The water is beautiful and approximately 70 degrees year-round.



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The Manatees sure do like it.



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It is fully ADA accessible here. I seem to be zoning into that, as I have a 1st Cousin who recently became disabled and enjoys the outdoors when he can get to it. So when I find a place like this that I think he can enjoy, I text him about it.



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It’s kind of hard to see, but there is whole herd of Manatees right near the shore. We had a great time watching them.



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Quite a motley crew, don’t ya think?



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Dan loaned me a pair of binoculars and I saw a few birds. It was a nice walk.



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From the Spring, it was just a 10-minute ride to lunch.



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Nice view here. Good eats too!



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After lunch, we took a short ride. In the entire area, there is one (1) road that has some curves on it, so we might as well ride it. It goes to the Gulf coast and the views are quite nice.



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We are living large, my friends.



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After lunch, Mike and I felt like taking a walk, so we looked for a birding trail nearby that I remember from the last time I was here. We parked and tried this trail, but it didn’t feel familiar and the rocks were hard to navigate.



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After that, Mike went back to Dan’s place, but I felt like wandering. I rode a bit south and saw something on the map the looked interesting.



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It’s an old sugar mill site.



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We grow and process sugar where I live, but it’s done a bit differently now.



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I wandered a bit more and eventually wound up back at Dan’s for the evening festivities.



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Then Bob and I started hitting the shampoo pretty good and things got “interesting”.



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That was the last picture I took that evening, and that’s probably a good thing.



Day 5: More exploring the Florida Nature Coast.



I woke up kind of dry and a bit hung over. Mike, Bob, and I thought that today would be a nice day to take a walk on one of the Florida Birding Trails. There is one only about 20 minutes from Dan’s camp, so after breakfast, we took off.



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This is a nice place.



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The cloud cover is helping us spot the birds. We saw several species, including a pair of Whooping Cranes, a first for me.



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Then we rode back to Crystal River for lunch.



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After lunch, I called Dan to see what’s up. After some discussion, the four of us went to the Rainbow River.



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It’s a cool place to take a swim. Underground springs keep the water at about 70 degrees year-round.



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Great timing, Dan!



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The water was crystal clear!



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Quite refreshing.



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I took a shower back at Dan’s Camp and had a beer (or 3 as I recall).



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Day 6: Crystal River, FL to Sanibel Island, FL



With rain in the forecast, Mike and John moved their tents under Dan’s Pole Barn yesterday evening. Since there was room in Dan’s air-conditioned trailer, I chose to pack my tent and sleep indoors. Bad decision. The cot was uncomfortable for me and I tossed all night.



In the morning, I woke up with a stiff back. I took some Advil, we bid farewell to Dan, and headed south toward our next destination. Before the trip, John made arrangements with a friend of his to stop over at Sanibel Island, FL. With some help from Dan, I picked a simple route to get there, running through hundreds of orange groves. My back continued to bother me all day on the motorcycle, and in the afternoon, it got worse.



We arrived at Claudia and Sig‘s house late in the afternoon. It was only about 300 miles, but I was in bad shape. After introductions and pleasantries at their carport, I stooped down to pick something up and felt a sharp “pop” in my back. I went down to my knees and for a minute, I could not rise. I was helped inside the house, where I took a shower on my knees, and then went straight to bed to lie down.



An hour later, John and Mike came to ask about my situation, which was not any better. They strongly suggested I go to the emergency room to get checked out, to which I agreed. Sig drove us to the Fort Myers hospital, and I was treated relatively promptly. An X-ray and CT scan was taken, and the diagnosis was strained muscles. I was given 2 injections for pain and swelling and sent off with several prescriptions. Upon return to the home of our hosts, I went to bed immediately.



Day 7 and 8: Sanibel Island, then home, via friendly skies.



The next morning, I woke up to some relief, but still in significant discomfort. After breakfast, John, Mike, and Sig asked about my intentions. Clearly not able to ride, I was fearful of the possibilities. Sig then graciously offered that if I wanted to fly home and recover, I could leave my motorcycle and gear at his house. That made the decision easy for me. I booked a 1-way plane ticket home for the next day.



This also allowed Mike and John to continue with the adventure, going south to Key West. I was relieved that at least my misfortune didn’t cause them too much inconvenience. To be clear, they were willing to do whatever I needed, not surprisingly. The big surprise came from Claudia and Sig. I just met these people yesterday and they were going above and beyond to help someone they didn’t even know.



That evening, we went out to eat on the beach. The food was good, but I’m afraid I wasn’t very good company. When you are hurting, you just wanna go home.



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The next morning, Mike and John geared up and shoved off for points south. Sig brought me to the airport. My flight was eventless and relatively comfortable.



To be continued…..
 
Day 9 (10 days later), Sanibel Island, FL to Lakeland, FL.



After getting home, I recovered from my back injury fairly quick. Mike and John got to Key West, but really didn’t enjoy the heat or the traffic there. They made it back to Lafayette, LA, John spent a night at my house, and then loaded his bike on the trailer and headed west for more adventure in Hill Country, Texas.



I booked return flight to Fort Myers and the only luggage I brought was the liner from one of my saddle bags with some fresh clothes. After all, everything else was left in Florida. Claudia and Sig were otherwise engaged, so I grabbed an Uber to their house, arriving early afternoon. I packed my motorcycle, geared up, and started my journey home.



It's warm but dry going back to the mainland.



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This osprey wasn’t worried about vehicles. Too busy looking for lunch!



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While I was home, I reached out to motorcycle buddies Marie and Rob, who live in Lakeland, FL They agreed to host me tonight. This was strategically convenient, as I only have to ride about 150 miles. This solved 2 concerns. First, I didn’t want to have to push it into the night if my flight was late (it wasn’t’) and second, I didn’t know for sure how my back was going to make it. A short easy ride was a good way to test it.



So far, so good!



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I’m cruising along on the route Rob gave me to his house when I see a motorcycle parked on the side of the road. As I get closer, I see that it’s an FJR1300, the same model I’m riding. I waive to the rider and continue on, quite oblivious to what just happened.



Then it hit me: Wait, doesn’t Rob ride a blue FJR? Glad you could join me, my friend.



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I had a great evening. Marie cooked Chicken and Dumplings, a dish I never tried before. It was delicious, and Rob’s beer is good and cold. My back feels just fine. This is going well.



Day 11: Lakeland, FL to SopChoppy, FL, approx. 325 miles.



I slept like a baby. Today, I’ll head north up the Florida peninsula toward the gulf coast. Marie has other plans, but Rob is going to ride with me this morning, and turn around after lunch.



Again, warm but dry.



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We ended up back at Crystal River just in time for a nice lunch.



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I thanked Rob again for the hospitality and continued north, at times making short order of it!



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I detoured slightly at the top of the peninsula to explore the coast near Big Bend WMA.



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I took a short walk on the public beach. The gulf water was still quite cold, and it had a cooling effect on the surrounding area which was quite confortable.



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Then in Perry, FL, I turned west bound and down.



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For a few days now, I’ve been communicating with another friend. Steve is a Canadian that is taking a break from his winter to enjoy better weather in Florida. He converted an old ambulance into a very nice RV. Steve is camping at Sopchoppy and that is perfect for me to stop for the evening.



This one is brewed in New Orleans. I’ve had it before and it sure hits the spot after a warm day riding.



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This is actually a city campground and it is quite nice.



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Plenty of room at the site, no charge for Pants.



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But wait, there’s more!



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I’d say I’m living pretty good. And now for the piece de resistance!



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We sat under the stars with full bellies and discussed the meaning of life like the Kings we were. I remember feeling so thankful that my back was feeling good. Since I recovered so quickly, obviously my injury was minor. I was lucky.



Day 12: SopChoppy, FL to Daphne, AL. Approx. 325 miles.



It cooled off to the lower 60s overnight, and I was quite comfortable. The campground here is awesome. Squeaky clean hot showers and very quiet. I enjoyed my stay.



I couldn’t eat my entire steak last night, so I saved the rest for a delicious breakfast.



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About 9 am, camp gear packed, having thanked Steve for the fine company, food, and everything, else, I ran to the coast.



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This is a wonderful part of Florida (between the peninsula and Panama City). The pace is slow and the traffic is light. There are no high rise condos or groomed beaches here. I like it.



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I stopped at this small museum (can’t remember the name) for a restroom brake and to poke around.



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It’s a nice day and a bit more comfortable under the clouds.



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Crossing Apalachicola Bay, the water looked pretty calm.



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Then I turned north toward the Interstate to make some miles as it was getting a little late in the day.



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Now heading due west on the slab at 10, err…. 20-ish over, the GPS is telling me that a major traffic delay is up ahead in Mobile Bay. This happens often around the tunnel, and when it does, the traffic jam can be horrendous. I re-directed myself to try and ride around it, to no avail. Before long, I was slowed to a crawl, where I crawled for almost 2 hours.



To further the issue, the radar is showing a HUGE orange and red blob of rain coming my way over Mobile Bay. Then a severe thunderstorm warning was issued and I made the call to quit and got a clean room in Daphne, Alabama.



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Within minutes of getting settled in the room, the skies unzipped and boy was I glad to be under shelter. A couple of hours later, the rain slacked and I walked next door for some average Mexican food and an even more average margarita, thankful to be safe and dry.



Tomorrow is another day.
 
Day 12: Daphne, AL to Lafayette, LA. Approximately 375 miles.



At one point yesterday evening, I had to call the front desk and ask the staff to quiet down my neighbors. Thankfully, that settled down at a reasonable hour and after that, I slept quite well.



The skies cleared up overnight. The free continental breakfast at the hotel sucked, and so fairly early, I got going to get across Mobile Bay and Mobile, AL before the workday rush crap started. Now west of all that, I exited the interstate and rode southeast toward the coast.



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The Mississippi River delta along southeastern Louisiana is a terrific riding alternative to the dreaded slab.



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That’s New Orleans back there, and I’m about as close as I want to get to it today.



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Since I was close, I stopped in Chalmette, LA to visit one of my cousins. I haven’t been there since Hurricane Katrina, and it was nice to ride past some old memories and spend time with family.



I was going to take the ferry across and ride the river road toward home, but when I got to the station, it was closed. With no other choice, I was forced to ride through New Orleans. Since I was in the neighborhood, I went by my old Granny’s house in the 8th ward.



My grandparents built this “shotgun house” before World War II. I have a LOT of wonderful memories from this place. It’s good to see the current owners taking such good care of it.



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I crossed the river in New Orleans and got onto the River Road. Again, it’s a slow pace ride that offers some different views of the deep south.



I still have a thing for bridges. I look at them as a uniter, joining us over here with them over there. This is the I-310 bridge where I stopped for lunch. It is magnificent.



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Somewhere on the River Road, I stopped at this falling apart grocery to pick up a poboy. New Orleans peeps have an accent that is similar to New York City folk. I was born in NOLA, and even though I lost my accent when we moved out of the city, after I speak with these people, it comes back.



(Counter Man) “Where yat, Boss.”



Note: This is an old NOLA tradition – “yat” means “are you” – He’s asking me “Where are you at?” He doesn’t mean that literally – I’m standing right there. It’s the NOLA way of saying “how are you doing?” or “Can I help you?”



(Pants) “Give me a shrimp poboy, dressed”



(Counter Man) “Ya got it, Boss”



A Poboy “Dressed” means Mayo, Lettuce, Tomato, and Pickles. Here, it’s served on a French “baguette style” bread (a bit crunchy). That bread is especially good with Roast Beef Poboys, which include a healthy dose of gravy that gets sopped up in the dryer bread. At home, we would use a softer bread. Both good – just different.



Here is what the Yat made me.



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Of course I could only eat half of it. I gave the other half to a wino dude sitting at the next park bench. He was happy to have the free lunch. Both of us enjoyed watching the ships and barges navigate Ole Man River.



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After lunch, I continued up river.



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It was a nice day for a ride.



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Any day is a good day for ice cream.



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Fittingly, that was the last picture I took, ending the 2-part trip on a terrific note. Shortly thereafter, I turned away from the river, riding familiar roads in the direction of home. I got there safely about 6 pm. In total, over both parts of the trip, it was about 3500 miles. I rode some of it with a some friends, some with other friends, and some alone. This is usually the way it goes for Pants, and I like all of it. There is comfort and enjoyment in riding with friends. But I also greatly enjoy riding by myself and my thoughts, at whatever pace I desire at the time.



I can’t say that I would recommend getting hurt halfway into a cross country trip. But in spite of the discomfort, it was a realistic reminder of two things. First, I am not invincible and no matter how much I desire it, this Party Train ain’t gonna last forever. While my body will still allow it, NOW is the time to adventure. Do it now – do not delay.



The other thing is that people are good and in general, want to help. All this baloney about the world going to crap – I don’t buy much of it. People everywhere are the same. Honestly, I never felt alone and all the inconvenience cost me was a little time and even less money. I’m retired, I can handle that.



Needless to say, I’ll be “back” for more adventure, soon enough.



Stay thirsty, my friends…..
 
I'm glad you posted the ride report. It was good chatting with you yesterday. Thanks for the pics and information. Time will tell which direction I take.
Be safe,
Mike
 
A few observations:
1-you don't always have room for food but always for ice cream
2-you've never had chicken and dumplings!!!!!... whaaaaaaa

and
3 - excellent ride report as usual, glad your back recovered, probably too much hiking (don't ask)

Thanks!
 
Yeah - down here in Cajun land, "dumplings" are not a thing. Starch may be starch, but we prefer rice. It was good, none the less.

Ironically for the most part, i don't eat ice cream at home. There's just something about it on the motorcycle. It's a good mid-afternoon stop with a group too - everyone likes ice cream.

Thank you all for reading my ride report.
 
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