Best LED H4 headlight replacement bulbs?

[Lyall]

It must be 2020, since there are now hundreds of brands of LED H4 headlight bulbs available. Every dealer and rider have their favourites (Canadian spelling). However, what bulb has the newest technology and doesn't require a built in fan and can be installed without any additional electronics?

Any suggestions on how to access the bulbs?

 

[drrod]

Within the subforum you posted in, there are several threads that address your questions.
eg.

changing headlight bulbs | Lighting / Visibility

I must be pretty dumb,Iread the threads about how to change a bulb and cant figure it out. where do you squeeze the clips with the wires attached ? dose it pull straight out ? feels like it will break ! can get to it easy from top just dont want to damage it any help would be appreciated

www.st-owners.com

H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6 | Lighting / Visibility

Well I pulled the offender back out this afternoon. I think more of it came apart than was supposed to cause the picture is a little different than Spiderman302's pic. I shot the base with D5 Deoxit and the armature too. Putting back together had me thinking, this aint gonna work. It did go back...

www.st-owners.com

 

[number1barber]

It must be 2020, since there are now hundreds of brands of LED H4 headlight bulbs available. Every dealer and rider have their favourites (Canadian spelling). However, what bulb has the newest technology and doesn't require a built in fan and can be installed without any additional electronics?

Any suggestions on how to access the bulbs?

Why does it matter if they use fans and have the newest tech? due tot heat they nearly all have fans or foils. i had a pair of novsight for a couple of years ththey have fans and the light they put out is amazing and yes they have small balast blocks

 

[ST Gui]

Why does it matter if they use fans and have the newest tech

Maybe the OP is hoping for plug n play installation which most of the LEDs don't seem to be. Unless the bulb and fan can be separated for installation some riders have found they have to cut the rubber dust cover or leave it off. Having the driver unit separate means finding a place to anchor it out of the way.

These aren't insurmountable issues. I and several other members have installed that type of bulb successfully with no drama. But being able to pop in a proper PnP LED bulb (similar to the stocker) is much easier whether the rider be a DIY n00b or combat hardened grizzled veteran who's tired of chasing kids off his lawn.

As far as the latest tech is concerned - new and improved is usually that. With much thanks to spiderman302's hands on research and working with a major manufacturer we've started to see more and more LED bulbs designed for improved retrofit lighting. That wasn't always the case and still isn't 100%.

Pendants from the Capt. Obvious Unit may be quick to point out that the newest tech isn't always an improvement. 'Tis true. But positive advancements have been made and it's still a mind field (very similar to a minefield) of choices for those who don't have the benefit of accurate information about the latest/greatest and what works/doesn't. Progress is good. As in I can't remember the last time I wished I had a kickstarter on my bike.

Here we're lucky. Even though spidey had moved on to projects other than testing LED bulbs (so that we don't have to) he still answers a call from time to time to help out.

 

[Daboo]

I pass on links to this forum and Spiderman302's threads. I did so yesterday, again. I am really grateful for the work he's put into the research and improvements with manufacturers on the bulbs.

New and improved, is just that. It's all in the placement of the LED chips and how thin that mounting area is to more closely duplicate where a halogen bulb filament is.

Chris

 

[wingdoc5]

advmonster.com.......I have used the led headlight bulbs and led fog lights....never any issues

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have the G2s(?) prior generation of LEDs in all 4 of my ST1100s with no issues. Just takes a little fussing to install them but they were a 'plug and play' with a little mod to the 'keeper' wire that holds the stocker bulbs in place.

 

[kiltman]

I installed the F2’s over the winter. Last Saturday I noticed one of the low beams isn’t working. Have about 30 hours on them, not pleased.

 

[SMSW]

Its not only the LED chips on the lamp but the cut off shield that really makes these perform well. Read the links @drrod posted above and listen to Spiderman. Cindy at Evitek is among the cheapest sources but buying from China might take a few days or a week or two longer to get. Amazon has some similar lamps for slightly more money as well as fleabay. Every one I've bought has been plug and play (3 different models for different cars and bikes) though you might have to use a zip tie to hold the excess wire up.

The headlight lamps are accessed either from below with the bike fully assembled or more easily with the fairing off. If you know how the bail unhooks from the headlight shell, then the former will work for you. Some guys have bragged they can get a bulb out in 30 seconds. On the other hand, if you DON'T know how the bail unhooks, it can take you up to 20 minutes with the fairing off. I happen to be in the latter group, though after one change, it became so easy that I might try it from below next time. The good thing about LED's is they have a very long life. I might never have to change mine again. As with all things lamp wise and electronic, there is no guarantee for life. The advertised life is an average of a large number of lamps.

 

[spiderman302]

low beams isn’t working. Have about 30 hours on them

is it out completely or is it dim?
If out completely, then check the electrical connections, especially the connector between the led and the power regulator. the retaining ring might not have been tightened properly.

The F2 is still the design reference from which you need to compare anything else that is new. It has the correct focus, correct led shape, and a shield that has the least glare.
There are a couple of newer leds and they are claimed to be 40 watts. They have not hit our shores yet (I think - i have not looked everywhere....) one is the NB35 by Evitek and the other is called the F3 made by someone else.... I have not tested these. You can find them on alibaba but no telling how long it will take to get them.....

All h4 led bulbs still have a small design flaw which I had pointed out back in post 309. you can fix it by putting a piece of 18 gage bare wire across the bottom two slots on the H4 head light before you insert the mounting plate. This will cause the bulb to have a slight down tilt. The H4 halogen filaments are NOT on the center line. You will notice a small improvement in the beam pattern..... there maybe an explanation in my thread referenced above...... This only applies the the H4 version of the bulb!!!

The only other improvement will be when they produce a 4000 kelvin white color temperature bulb. The lower temp has less blue that will scatter in the fog.......
make sure that you critically adjust the cutoff line to the horizon. I see a lot of bikes/cars where the beam is too low creating a bright glare spot half way down the road.
The thin wide beam needs to be set just below the virtual horizon.

The super nice thing is that on the ST1300 there is a knob on the dash so that you can fine tune it on the fly! It is second best,.. to the electric windshield.........

 

[kiltman]

is it out completely or is it dim?
If out completely, then check the electrical connections, especially the connector between the led and the power regulator. the retaining ring might not have been tightened properly.

The low beam is completely out. I have made sure the connector ring is fully fastened, I have voltage output from the power regulator.
Edit: I just took the bulb out in the photo attached you can see the burn't LED on both sides.

 

[spiderman302]

Ouch! That is a manufacturing defect. Looks like no solder paste or no reflow. The fact that the ends are burned is a big clue.
The ends were not properly soldered. Kind of like burnt relay contacts. Takes a lot of current to make those things glow so bright.
Normal long term failure from over heat will cause the yellow phosphor to turn brown.
Send them that picture and ask for a replacement.......

 

[kiltman]

Ouch! That is a manufacturing defect. Looks like no solder paste or no reflow. The fact that the ends are burned is a big clue.
The ends were not properly soldered. Kind of like burnt relay contacts. Takes a lot of current to make those things glow so bright.
Normal long term failure from over heat will cause the yellow phosphor to turn brown.
Send them that picture and ask for a replacement.......

I'm working on it. I have actually ordered another set, which won't get to me till July or the end of August. Took me an hour this morning to change that one from LED to a Halogen, The ABS computers hamper access....

 

[paulcb]

I'm working on it. I have actually ordered another set, which won't get to me till July or the end of August. Took me an hour this morning to change that one from LED to a Halogen, The ABS computers hamper access....

I unbolt the ABS computer and move it out of the way when changing my bulbs. It's still a pain, but gives me a little more room.

 

[kiltman]

I unbolt the ABS computer and move it out of the way when changing my bulbs. It's still a pain, but gives me a little more room.

Good to know, I removed the windshield, Garnish, the black triangle, and the dash cover. mostly to deal with the fan of the LED, I think I can do it without removing any of those if I were to just change a regular bulb.
Thanks for the tip

 

[number1barber]

Maybe the OP is hoping for plug n play installation which most of the LEDs don't seem to be. Unless the bulb and fan can be separated for installation some riders have found they have to cut the rubber dust cover or leave it off. Having the driver unit separate means finding a place to anchor it out of the way.

These aren't insurmountable issues. I and several other members have installed that type of bulb successfully with no drama. But being able to pop in a proper PnP LED bulb (similar to the stocker) is much easier whether the rider be a DIY n00b or combat hardened grizzled veteran who's tired of chasing kids off his lawn.

As far as the latest tech is concerned - new and improved is usually that. With much thanks to spiderman302's hands on research and working with a major manufacturer we've started to see more and more LED bulbs designed for improved retrofit lighting. That wasn't always the case and still isn't 100%.

Pendants from the Capt. Obvious Unit may be quick to point out that the newest tech isn't always an improvement. 'Tis true. But positive advancements have been made and it's still a mind field (very similar to a minefield) of choices for those who don't have the benefit of accurate information about the latest/greatest and what works/doesn't. Progress is good. As in I can't remember the last time I wished I had a kickstarter on my bike.

Here we're lucky. Even though spidey had moved on to projects other than testing LED bulbs (so that we don't have to) he still answers a call from time to time to help out.

Fair enough. The ones i have split so you mount the bulb the the cover then clip the fan it. you do have to push a bit but this could be fixed by trimming a sliver of the rubber. i suppose the only issue being hiding the small blocks. in regards to newer mine have razor sharp cutoffs and the range is insane add that to the output and you can land planes. next to expensive cars with stock led lights its hard to see much difference. I can really see how the can be improved i mean you really really wouldnt want brighter or rainy days could kill alot of people from you reflections

 

[kiltman]

The replacement LED’s arrived today. My other one burnt out this morning, so the timing was good. The replacements are slightly different, the power supply has 5 pins and there’s a bigger O ring on the housing.
Paul I took your advice and removed the computer, access was much better. Thanks.
I had spare rubber boots so I cut out part of the boot so the fan had more room, hopefully they will last longer.

 

[GoodGuywitha9mm]

Its not only the LED chips on the lamp but the cut off shield that really makes these perform well. Read the links @drrod posted above and listen to Spiderman. Cindy at Evitek is among the cheapest sources but buying from China might take a few days or a week or two longer to get. Amazon has some similar lamps for slightly more money as well as fleabay. Every one I've bought has been plug and play (3 different models for different cars and bikes) though you might have to use a zip tie to hold the excess wire up.

The headlight lamps are accessed either from below with the bike fully assembled or more easily with the fairing off. If you know how the bail unhooks from the headlight shell, then the former will work for you. Some guys have bragged they can get a bulb out in 30 seconds. On the other hand, if you DON'T know how the bail unhooks, it can take you up to 20 minutes with the fairing off. I happen to be in the latter group, though after one change, it became so easy that I might try it from below next time. The good thing about LED's is they have a very long life. I might never have to change mine again. As with all things lamp wise and electronic, there is no guarantee for life. The advertised life is an average of a large number of lamps.

I am a big fan of LED's, but also wish to see a better pattern or the ability to match the distance of a halogen with the LED brightness. I do not agree with the "very long life" of LED's in this type of use, as I have replaced many in cars LONG before their time, probably due to the bumping, jarring, fan failures, and ??? I would imagine it may last longer in a ST Bike than a car, but can still not match the bulbs in the Garage that will light up my estate sale!

 

[SMSW]

I am a big fan of LED's, but also wish to see a better pattern or the ability to match the distance of a halogen with the LED brightness. I do not agree with the "very long life" of LED's in this type of use, as I have replaced many in cars LONG before their time, probably due to the bumping, jarring, fan failures, and ??? I would imagine it may last longer in a ST Bike than a car, but can still not match the bulbs in the Garage that will light up my estate sale!

I'm a retired electrician, and like many of us, watched the LED lamps roll out with extraordinary claims for life - 10k hours, later as high as 50k hours. With the higher claimed lives, early on, came a warranty of 2 years. A rep told me that the power supplies available had not caught up to the LED in reliability. Soon that changed. Yes, some guys here have reported a 6 month or one year life, but that will change. As these mfrs up the lumens, cooling the chip becomes vitally important. Can we really expect a mechanical fan to last 50k hours? Well, high end bathroom exhaust fans are rated at 20k hours, but they are using larger bearings and often do not see the heat a mc could. They should easily match and outlive an incandescent halogen's life.

I'm very happy with my LED lamps in my bike - as I said Evitek. They are way better than the aftermarket halogens I had installed.

 

[GoodGuywitha9mm]

I'll concur with that analysis... staying away from the Chinese knockoffs will improve your luck with them as well! I'll take a look at Evitek - Had not heard of them until today. Thanks!