Brakes don't release

Joined
May 18, 2025
Messages
2
Age
73
Location
Johnstown, Ontario
Bike
Honda ST-1300A
My name is Richard Frenette and I live in Johnstown Ontario.

I need help with my 2003 Honda St1300A. The rear brake is now releasing when I apply it. I’ve bled the whole system.

Can somebody help me understand why it does this, please.
(richtagman@gmail.com)
 
To expand on dduelin's post, the ST1300's braking system is more complex than most. You may know that the front and rear braking system are linked, and an important part of this system is the Secondary Master Cylinder (SMC). Unfortuantely, the SMC is a known failure point on the bike's braking system and if it fails it causes the rear caliper to stick.

If the rear brake is now releasing (did you meant to type "not releasing?") then I would just keep a close eye on all three calipers. Perhaps bleeding the bad fluid was enough to restore the caliper to normal function. I found that when I bled the system following the shop manual's instructions there was some truly black fluid in the line from the proportioning valve to the rear cliper. This suggests that the previous owner didn't follow the procedure and it must be followed exactly. I'm not saying you didn't do the bleed correctly but keep in mind that the process isn't intuitive if you've only worked on non-linked brakes. If you skip a step it can cause expensive consequences.

If you browse through the brake subforum you will find many stories similar to yours as well as trouble shooting guides and repair instuctions, so even if you don't have a service manual you should be able to at least diagnose the problem.
 
To enhance your riding season and give you a piece of mind, I would replace the "SMC" Secondary Master Cylinder sooner rather than later.
Sounds like you have a good handle on bleeding these ST brake lines.
I noticed my rear brake disc heating up more than normal a few years ago, ( yes you need to know how hot it gets on say a regular trip to work on monitor it regularly on these bikes), problem went away after replacing the SMC.
Head over to the blue bar at the top and under articles, choose ST1300Articles, then type in brake under the Quick search box.
You will see 13 great articles that will bring you up to speed on these wonderful brakes that stop you so quick and know the jargon we use on this forum.
 
I will second Art's suggesting of replacing the smc. They are not too expensive and you don't have to hassle with the rebuilding process if you don't have the tools or know how.
 
there's a whole lot going on with the linked braking system and various causes as to why your rear brake might not be working correctly. There's well written articles and posts written by experienced and knowledgeable well-intentioned guys on this site that provide good information to help you get the bike sorted out.
Meanwhile it's late May and Ontario has a window of time to ride, I might back burner it and get one of those Yamaha Tenures or something... hmm... :unsure:
 
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SMC failures inevitably point back to poor routine maintenance. A prescription for failure of that unit would be to postpone brake fluid changes for oh, 5,6,7 years or longer.

Since brake fluid costs from 3 to $10 to do this, and SMC's have cost over $200, do the math. It is not saving money.
 
The secondary master cylinder (SMC) that is being referenced is attached to the left front caliper assembly on the left fork leg. It is operated by being forced to rotate upward and forward on its lower pivot point by being dragged by the rotational force of the left front brake disc when the brakes are applied. This causes it to apply hydraulic pressure to the rear caliper to apply the rear brakes. If this SMC does not fully release the rear brake pressure is not fully released and the rear brakes do not fully release. This is a common failure with ST1300's brakes that have been poorly maintained.

There are two quick simple tests that you can do to help diagnose it.

First test- With the motorcycle on the centre-stand the rear wheel should rotate freely.
- Manually push the SMC upwards and forward towards the fork leg rotating it on its lower pivot point. It does not move very much at all- only a few millimetres so don't expect a lot of movement. This actions applies the rear brake and prevents the rear wheel from rotating. You can have someone help you or you can lie down along the left-hand side of the motorcycle and try to rotate the rear wheel with your foot while roatating the SMC. Be mindful not to push the motorcycle forward off of the centre-stand while applying force to the SMC. Chocking the front wheel is not a bad idea. However you accomplish this the point is that rotating the SMC forward should apply hydraulic pressure to the rear brake and lock the rear wheel preventing it from rotating.
- Release the SMC and the rear wheel should immediately be free to rotate again. If it isn't the SMC is most likely seizing up and not releasing the hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel.

Second test- Again, with the motorcycle on the centre-stand.
Without applying any force to the SMC the rear wheel should rotate freely. If it doesn't open the rear caliper bleeder nipples one at a time to release the hydraulic pressure taking note of which bleeder allowed the rear wheel to rotate when it was opened. Whichever bleeder nipple it was that allowed movement will determine which caliper pistons are sticking and will further help determine whether the problem is a seizing SMC, hydraulic caused by some other problem maintaing pressure, or mechanical due to one or more of the pistons sticking or some other mechanical default.

If opening the bleeder screws at the rear caliper does not allow the rear wheel to rotate freely than the problem is most likely not hydraulic but mechanical. The above tests are intended to be an indicator of where to focus further inspection. They are not definitive as the entire brake system operates as one system and all parts of it need to function properly and as such the entire brake system needs to be inspected and serviced.

The below is an excellent article that will show you what to look for and how to inspect it.

ST1300 - Brake Maintenance - Avoiding the Pitfalls

 
My name is Richard Frenette and I live in Johnstown Ontario.

I need help with my 2003 Honda St1300A. The rear brake is now releasing when I apply it. I’ve bled the whole system.

Can somebody help me understand why it does this, please.
(richtagman@gmail.com)
Hi Rich,

A fellow owner is having a similar problem on this thread: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/dragging-back-brake.189346/ As noted above, the linked braking system on the ST13 has unique design. This system does not tolerate neglect well, and the entire system has to be flushed in a particular sequence.

As you'll see from the linked thread, my secondary master cylinder (SMC) failed after an attempt to rebuild it. Before I replaced it, I replaced all the caliper pistons and seals on all three calipers. By far, the caliper with the most gunk in it was the rear. It is difficult to bleed all the crud out of that caliper for some reason.

Additionally, the rear caliper mounting bracket is prone to wear and cause your caliper to not function properly. The link to the thread above contains a link to an article I wrote about my experience with both issues. I hope this helps.

Chris
 
My name is Richard Frenette and I live in Johnstown Ontario.

I need help with my 2003 Honda St1300A. The rear brake is not releasing when I apply it. I’ve bled the whole system.

Can somebody help me understand why it does this, please.
(richtagman@gmail.com)
Hi everyone! I’m happy to report that, after my request (above), I received extensive instructions from my new good friend, Al GULLY from Vancouver BC, I successfully installed a very good, lightly used SMC, supplied by Al. I finished bleeding my system yesterday. It works fine but I didn’t take it on the road yet. I’m not sure the lever and pedal feel 100% firm but I’ll assess that when I road test it…..probably today. I will bleed the system again in a few days, just to make sure that tiny air bubbles didn’t stay stuck in corners or recesses.

The rear wheel is FREE! Rear caliper works fine and firm, every time after I apply the rear brakes!

Thanks again Al any others who cared to chip in with their own experiences. Now, I am more in love with my Good Ol’ Esty!
 
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