Broken valve cover bolts

YR

Joined
Feb 18, 2006
Messages
47
Location
Wexford, PA
Bike
ST1300A
I know that I am not the first one to break one of the valve cover bolts (back one on the right side), and not the first one to dig it out. Just wanted to share the picture.

Drilled with a 3 mm drill bit and pulled with easyout #1. Actually, in the way that the bolt is designed, once broken, it doesn?t press against the bottom of the threaded hole. So, gentle drilling and careful easyout handling will take it out with no problem. Just don?t break the easyout bit. I also covered everything around with a towel and used a magnet very frequently to collect the metal chips.

By the way, I tightened the bolt to specs with a torque wrench when it broke. It happened on the third time that I closed the valve cover (third service). I took the opportunity and replaced all the bolts to new ones.

Pic08.JPG
 
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I need to check the valves on my bike.

Your post is not inspiring.

PS Good job getting it out without bungling the threads.
 
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Great job getting it out. I have a set of left handed drill bits that I use for broken bolts. Sometimes you get lucky and it will spin out the bolt with out a easyout.
 
I need to check the valves on my bike.

Your post is not inspiring.

Not even to not give up?

By the way, I only heard about a handful of bolt-failure cases like that, but my only source of common knowledge in this regard is this site. But, as they say (with no disrespect whatsoever), if you cannot stand the heat, don’t get into the kitchen.
 
I've never heard of a " bolt failure " like that before but I've heard of a lot of people who don't know how and when to use a torque ranch.
 
He stated that he used a torque Wrench. Never heard of a torque ranch.
And there have been a handful of others that have had bolts fail.

Maybe you should reread his post.

And maybe that handful of others didn't know how to use a torque wrench either.
 
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Mellow time for a SLAP

+1 The Dan. lads don,t get into a slagging match.These things can happen to anyone whether you use a torque wrench or not.The thing is YR did an excellent job in removing the broken bolts,well done.Probably the best thing to do next time would be to replace the bolts with new ones.
 
I've never heard of a " bolt failure " like that before but I've heard of a lot of people who don't know how and when to use a torque ranch.

You may be right, … but you will never know.

BTW, what are the chances that you will not have some appreciation to my torque wrenching skills during your next valve inspection? … and you don’t even know me.

Mellow time for a SLAP

No need for a SLAP on my behalf--it is absolutely fine by me to have doubts. It is a prerequisite in my occupation.

Peace.
 
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Let's dial things back a notch or two. You guys must be watching too many NFL games with the substitute officials.

John
 
"Treat everyone with politeness, even those who are rude to you - not because they are nice, but because you are." - Author Unknown

I appreciate the timely intervention. Your quote is much more appropriate than Einstein's. My apologies to anyone I've offended.
 
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Maybe this thread has run its course already, but I just have to ask, why in the world did Honda choose those weird bolts for the ST valve cover ???

The shoulder design prevents you from using the actual bolt head to apply more torque, it has to transfer it through the stupid rubber grommets. Over time the grommets compress, and you have to spend even more $$ replacing those things to keep the gasket from leaking. What's so hard about using a regular 6mm bolt for something as simple as a valve cover gasket??
 
I can attest Honda Japan doesn't always torque that bolt correctly either. My bike is a 2012, serial number 10, and at around 300 miles- one of those bolts came loose and got slapped around by the cam lobe into the bolt boss (on the head). Honda offered to replace it all, but after I looked around in there, I choose to leave it* and not have them pull the entire freaking motor and open things up. Sure sounded like the motor was coming apart when it went off.

*"it" consisted of cosmetic dents and impact marks on the exterior of the bolt boss
 
Maybe this thread has run its course already, but I just have to ask, why in the world did Honda choose those weird bolts for the ST valve cover ???

The shoulder design prevents you from using the actual bolt head to apply more torque, it has to transfer it through the stupid rubber grommets. Over time the grommets compress, and you have to spend even more $$ replacing those things to keep the gasket from leaking. What's so hard about using a regular 6mm bolt for something as simple as a valve cover gasket??

My guess may be as good as of next guy, but I think that it is related to engineering design, the stiffness of the cover, and the space available all around the cover. It may also be related to appearance.

With the right engineering design, placing a couple of bolts at strategic locations close to the center of an inverted cup-like cover can create a close-to-uniform pressure on the rubber sealing. Placing bolts along the edge of the cover would require many more bolts in short intervals, including the back side, which is less accessible.

If we talk about appearance, it is easier to blend these odd bolts into the signature feature of the ST—extended engine head covers from the sides.

If it would be up to me, and given what I know today, I would place these bolts at the same locations but make these bolts out of two parts: a pole and a short bolt. The pole, with a bigger thread, threaded into the engine head, and the short bolt, with a smaller thread, threaded into the other side of the pole. In this case, the limits of the short bolt would always be reached first, and the bolt thread would break before the pole thread. With that setup, the pole wiould have to be replaced, and no harm done.
 
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Maybe this thread has run its course already, but I just have to ask, why in the world did Honda choose those weird bolts for the ST valve cover ???

The shoulder design prevents you from using the actual bolt head to apply more torque, it has to transfer it through the stupid rubber grommets. Over time the grommets compress, and you have to spend even more $$ replacing those things to keep the gasket from leaking. What's so hard about using a regular 6mm bolt for something as simple as a valve cover gasket??

The same design of bolts are used on Many Honda model's. Wing's, Valkyrie's. I would guess they use that style bolt so the smaller head down by the threads seats on the engine head and can be torqued. The top bolt head snugs the rubber seals on the bolt and valve cover gasket to a lower "torque" as in an exact length causes the rubber to set to the correct tension.

Raymond
 
The same design of bolts are used on Many Honda model's. Wing's, Valkyrie's. ...

Raymond

You are right--the Goldwing 1800 has six similar bolts on each head (not interchangeable with the ST ones). There are quite a few threads on Goldwing owner web sites talking about the same issue of bolt failure.

BTW, my other bike is a 2010 Goldwing.
 
I hate these stupid bolts. Thanks for the reminder, I just ordered new bolts. Just in case.
Via Direct Line Parts:

Description: BOLT, HEAD COVER for 2006 HONDA ST1300
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $8.41
Total Cost: $16.82
Mfg Product Number: 90017-MCS-000
Description: BOLT, HEAD COVER for 2006 HONDA ST1300
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.50
Total Cost: $5.00

steve
 
I hate these stupid bolts. Thanks for the reminder, I just ordered new bolts. Just in case.
Via Direct Line Parts:

Description: BOLT, HEAD COVER for 2006 HONDA ST1300
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $8.41
Total Cost: $16.82
Mfg Product Number: 90017-MCS-000
Description: BOLT, HEAD COVER for 2006 HONDA ST1300
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.50
Total Cost: $5.00

steve

In total you need two 90017-MCS-000 ($2.50) and one 90017-MAL-600 ($8.41) for each side, if you want to replace all. The $8.41 is the one that broke. There must be a reason that it is priced differently.

Prices are based on HDL
 
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