Changed power to Givi Topbox- LOTS of pics... opinions/thoughts wanted.

Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
52
Location
VA Beach, VA
Bike
2009 Wee Strom
I'll ask for opinions/ideas in the second post I post on this thread....

Alright. So here's the original power layout...
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I didn't like the cord sticking where it was (especially if the wife rode..constantly pushing against the cord). So I removed it, and filled the holes with PC11 epoxy. Then I sanded and spraypainted the epoxy.
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So to route the power, I decided I wanted to use the circular area that Givi put on it's mounts for their "power plug" (I think for their lighting kits). It's not a great fit, so I had to drill it a little wider than the norm, and shim the locking portion of the Givi box with thin lockwashers to fit the plug inbetween the box and givi mount. The topbox is stuck well against the power plug, but I will glue some small rubber washers elsewhere on the mount to take up any other slack, as well as probably get a HAIR thinner lock washers.



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THOUGHTS OPINIONS

1) Are slightly thinner washers and making sure to minimize bouncing by the addition of rubber spacers safe enough?

2) Cord in, or cord out and under? I like the cord out and under, with a rubber plug. Produces a flatter bottom in the case when not in use. I was worried at first about potential leaks in the bag potentially corroding or bridging the SAE connection, but I also figure (A), don't be dumb and leave a liquid that could leak in the topbox, (B) I can always leave it unpowered unless there's a NEED to power something in the box and (C) that's why fuses exist.

3) Right now, it's just sandwiched between the plate and the givi case. I thought about screwing it into the plate, or screwing it into the topbox, and then I said... "Screw it." What's the point? It's not going anywhere. And this way it makes for easy removal or replacement. Additionally, when I ride, I never take the topbox off, merely drop whatever duffel bag I'm using in it.

Thoughts?

Alexi
 

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You can buy either or both parts of the box-to-rack contacts. I know because I just replaced the spring-loaded box half, and now my box lights work as brake lights.

Unless you need more than two conductors, the contacts should work for just about any use, and automatically makes and breaks contact when you install or remove the box.

I also just discovered that my box DOES have a carry handle. It's the same bar you press to open the box. Is there a release, or do you pry it out with a key like I did?
 
You can buy either or both parts of the box-to-rack contacts. I know because I just replaced the spring-loaded box half, and now my box lights work as brake lights.

Unless you need more than two conductors, the contacts should work for just about any use, and automatically makes and breaks contact when you install or remove the box.

I also just discovered that my box DOES have a carry handle. It's the same bar you press to open the box. Is there a release, or do you pry it out with a key like I did?
To release the carry handle, put the key in, turn to the unlock, and then turn the key just a LITTLE past the unlock and it'll pop out the carry handle.

I might look into the contacts in the future, pending what happens with the bike. I guess 12v is 12v, regardless of how it's packaged.

Alexi
 
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