Clutch Mod

Smudgemo

Intermodal Man of Mystery
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May 17, 2019
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Berkeley, CA
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Feel free to tell me I'm going to die having done this, but I hate the clutch action on my '96 1100 and wanted to do something about it. Heating and bending the lever as I'd seen suggested somewhere seemed a bit extreme and kinda dangerous, and I wasn't interested in figuring out which adustable VFR lever would fit my bike. However, I came across this how-to in another forum (http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=3518.0) and the price was right, so I decided to give it a shot. My analysis was seat of the pants and the trimming was less extreme, but I figured I could easily do some more later, and if things got out of hand (pun intended) I could just buy a new push rod for not much money.

So first thing was to remove the pivot bolt and the lever. I noticed the boot is cracked and torn, so I'll need to go back in and replace that. Then I chucked up the rod and trimmed the correct end about 5mm or so.


Then I drilled a 1/8" hole for a 4mm tap (figured it was close enough as I didn't have the proper drill size) and ran a tap into it. Centered and 3.5mm from the end:


Cut the screw head off, slotted with a hacksaw and cleaned up in the lathe:


Lever ready to reinstall:


Now it feels better and closely matches the distance from the grips that the brake lever has. I don't have small hands, so I really don't know how anyone that does can like the stock setup, but to each his own. Since the clutch engages so late in the throw, I probably have room for more trimming, although then the micro-switch might be impacted in some manner I don't want to deal with. I also intend to replace this screw with one made of brass at some point since I assume this one will corrode, and I want a softer metal acting as a stop. I'll loctite it with blue at that time.

That's it - simple mod that took me an hour. You could use any similar size screw although fine thread is probably better, and you'll need the proper size drill and tap. If anyone really does want to give this a go, I can pull it apart and measure what I ended up with for a push rod length as I didn't track it.

I took it out and rode for an hour or so on a mix of highway, county roads and twisty backroads, and it's early, but (to me) it's a huge improvement. I prefer two fingers which is now way more viable, and it feels like what I expect. I couldn't detect any slipping under hard acceleration or engine-braking down steep inclines. I'll probably reduce the stop height half a turn or so to see what I get before any loctite, but I could easily live with it as is.
 
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Smudgemo

Smudgemo

Intermodal Man of Mystery
Joined
May 17, 2019
Messages
558
Location
Berkeley, CA
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'08 GS / '78 CB550
It allows the lever to rest closer to the bars without affecting the clutch. Instead of the bike moving once the lever gets back all the way out, it starts moving at about half-way out which is a lot more like my other bikes. The explanation in the linked article explains it more thoroughly.
 

CYYJ

Michael
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Hi Ryan:

Fascinating idea, and a very clever strategy on your part. Do come back and let us know what you long-term impressions are after you have had a chance to ride with it for a while.

Michael
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Nicely done. I'm not a fan of the factory configuration and have used different and adjustable levers to get the friction/engagement point to a more traditional location. This has annoyed me with every Honda I've owned since the V65S.
 
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Interesting work Ryan, you're obviously a genius.
And may I welcome you as a fully adopted Englishman :ukflag1:, such a combination of the imperial and metric measurement system is truly commendable. I would liken it to ordering 10 metres of half inch rope.
Now if only you could learn BSP and Whitworth.
Upt'North.
 
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Smudgemo

Smudgemo

Intermodal Man of Mystery
Joined
May 17, 2019
Messages
558
Location
Berkeley, CA
Bike
'08 GS / '78 CB550
I appreciate the kind words and the help I've gotten here so far, and the help I'm going to no doubt be asking for this winter when I break this bike down.

So my dad grew up on a dairy farm in Wisconsin, and when I was a kid back there, we always had 3-4 coffee cans worth of nuts/bolts/washers/etc on the shelf. He said you never throw this stuff away because it will come in handy one day. So as you can imagine, I have all sorts of stuff sitting around that would normally get tossed. And again, it came in handy. I have these 5.5mm aluminum rod cut-offs from I can't remember what, and hey, those would make for a crackin' M4 screw with very little waste.

So, measurements go like this: 5.5 - 3.7 (existing screw) = 1.8 / 25.4 = .071 which means .035" on a radius lathe.


And because it's aluminum and I really don't want to bring out the change gear to cut metric, let alone cut threads this small, I just ran a die over it.


To give more surface, I left the original diameter and filed two flats to put a wrench on.


Finished stopper.


And finally, since it was apart I took a measurement of the rod's new length, and it's .583" or 15.81mm using the depth gauge, not as shown. I seriously doubt you need to be this precise, but there it is.


Having only basic tools, you could carefully shorten the rod with a hacksaw and smooth the radius at the end with sand paper with the rod chucked up in a hand drill or drill press. Drilling for the stop would be better in a drill press, but if a guy was careful, a hand drill will work. Brass screws from your local hardware store are probably fine. You don't need this sort of equipment.

I was hoping to get out for a ride in Marin with my daughter, but I think all I'm going to get is some errands today. I'll be sure to update this thread at some point in the future with my impressions, but in reality, it's a pretty inexpensive thing to reverse if you don't like it or if your work goes bad.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Messages
19
Location
florida
Feel free to tell me I'm going to die having done this, but I hate the clutch action on my '96 1100 and wanted to do something about it. Heating and bending the lever as I'd seen suggested somewhere seemed a bit extreme and kinda dangerous, and I wasn't interested in figuring out which adustable VFR lever would fit my bike. However, I came across this how-to in another forum (http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=3518.0) and the price was right, so I decided to give it a shot. My analysis was seat of the pants and the trimming was less extreme, but I figured I could easily do some more later, and if things got out of hand (pun intended) I could just buy a new push rod for not much money.

So first thing was to remove the pivot bolt and the lever. I noticed the boot is cracked and torn, so I'll need to go back in and replace that. Then I chucked up the rod and trimmed the correct end about 5mm or so.


Then I drilled a 1/8" hole for a 4mm tap (figured it was close enough as I didn't have the proper drill size) and ran a tap into it. Centered and 3.5mm from the end:


Cut the screw head off, slotted with a hacksaw and cleaned up in the lathe:


Lever ready to reinstall:


Now it feels better and closely matches the distance from the grips that the brake lever has. I don't have small hands, so I really don't know how anyone that does can like the stock setup, but to each his own. Since the clutch engages so late in the throw, I probably have room for more trimming, although then the micro-switch might be impacted in some manner I don't want to deal with. I also intend to replace this screw with one made of brass at some point since I assume this one will corrode, and I want a softer metal acting as a stop. I'll loctite it with blue at that time.

That's it - simple mod that took me an hour. You could use any similar size screw although fine thread is probably better, and you'll need the proper size drill and tap. If anyone really does want to give this a go, I can pull it apart and measure what I ended up with for a push rod length as I didn't track it.

I took it out and rode for an hour or so on a mix of highway, county roads and twisty backroads, and it's early, but (to me) it's a huge improvement. I prefer two fingers which is now way more viable, and it feels like what I expect. I couldn't detect any slipping under hard acceleration or engine-braking down steep inclines. I'll probably reduce the stop height half a turn or so to see what I get before any loctite, but I could easily live with it as is.
Yeah that could help. Thanks for the tip!
 
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