Cold start hard start issue solved!

mikeinvaf16

mikeinvaf16

Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
23
Location
Richmond Virginia Area
Bike
05 ST1300
Since the weather has turned colder here i have been having cold start issues - no start - poor engine idle - several times had the engine die while stopped. The problem would go away and not happen for several days. I never had an FI code in the ECM and never had a flashing FI light. I changed the spark plugs, took the air cleaner assy off and tightened up the throttle body rubber boots (what a PIA that was!!!) - while in there i synced up the cold start valves - i checked the 5 way connector and hoses - they were clean inside with no evidence of gunk - seemed to be ok for many days and then the problem would be back. I searched the forums here and came upon the MAP sensor issue a few others were having. A few did have the 2 blink FI indicating the MAP sensor and some had no error code. The MAP sensor is over 100.00 so i got one from ebay from a low mileage honda (the map sensor is on about all fuel injected hondas) for about 25.00. I replaced it and i have a new running motorcycle now! The cold starts have been perfect - no more low idle problems - no more issues what so ever - so if you have been having problems like mine and have no ECM codes the MAP sensor just might be your issue as well.
Mike
 
Very glad to hear you got it sorted, and thanks for the heads-up.

Knowledge is never wasted.
 
mikeinvaf16 said:
... tightened up the throttle body rubber boots (what a PIA that was!!!) ...
Click to expand...

The trick to doing that is a 12" screwdriver. If the clamps are placed correctly, you can slip it in from the corners of the cylinder heads and getting to them is a snap. Also, be aware that the clamps on the boots aren't supposed to be tight since the lip on the throttle body throat is what seals it up. There's a spec in the manual for how far apart the ends of the bands are supposed to be (7 or 8 mm, I think). An open-end wrench works well as a gauge for that.

Glad you got the MAP sensor straightened out. I suspect that some of them get far enough out of whack that the fueling becomes less than ideal but not so far that the computer sees it as an obvious malfunction.

One other thing to look at is the linkages for the idle valves on the throttle body. I had a couple of days' worth of problems like the one you describe many years ago that cleared up after I gave mine a good cleaning up and hasn't been back since. (I clean them any time I pull the air box now.) Could be a coincidence, but it's easy maintenance.

--Mark
 
Hey Mark,
I knew about the specs for the throttle body boots - i just snugged up the clamps - they were about 4 turns loose on each clamp! I also cleaned and dry lubed all the linkages on the throttle body with dupont teflon multi use spray - it does not attract grit like wd-40 or other wet lubes do - got it at lowes and it works well as a dry lube.
Mike
 
Great to know this. At first read, I thought the problem may have been an issue with the SE Thermal Valve, but I think any failures that occur with it involve a fast idle that won't drop back to normal as the cold engine begins to warm up, pretty much the opposite of what you experienced.
 
I'm experiencing the same issue. Some days she fired right up and idols normally, some days she starts and idols low and has shut off on me once. I wasn't to ask you, did you experience a lack of get up and go? I just did a 5 day ride and only on one morning she idled low, but I think it lacked a bit of power when I turned the wrist, seemed to take a sec or two for the power to kick in.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 
mikeinvaf16 said:
STrangr,
The bike did lack power when the map sensor acted up but only below around 2500 rpm - above that i had no power issues.
Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike,
That sounds like my issue, I guess I need to start checking my map sensor. I did not expect issues at only 17,000 miles.
Thanks for your input.
Glad you got yours sorted out.

Mike
 
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