Difficulty bleeding the brakes

suds750

Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
26
Location
London, UK
Bike
2001 ST1100
I'm now about 95% finished on the project 'sidecar removal'. The forks are changed, centre stand on, rear wheel changed, tyres replaced, most of the side car brackets removed. I've got my Tomtom rider on & bike powered and bullet l.e.d's working. I'm still waiting for the front mudguard parts to make their way over from Japan.
All I have to do is to finish bleeding the brakes. And therein lies the problem! I have (with assistance from both my wife and russt1969) tried to get all the air out of the system, following directions from my Haynes manual, but to no avail. The front lever seems to be pretty good now, but the back pedal needs to be 'pumped' to get up to pressure. After a few seconds of not pressing on the pedal, the pressure in the system is lost and I have to pump the system again.
Can anyone impart their wisdom to help a build-weary soul? :bow1:
 
It doesn't really take any "special" tools to bleed the brakes although a MightyVac brake bleeder sure comes in handy.

All you really need is a short section of a clear plastic tube and a container to catch the fluid in. Lets go over the basics

Make sure the reservoir is full - If it goes empty you will get air in the system

Have someone apply the brakes until they feel pressure - and hold it.

The second person slightly unscrews the bleed screw allowing the fluid to run out of the tube into the container. You need to close the screw before the brake pedal reaches the end of it's travel. You want to be "pumping" the fluid out

Repeat until you get a firm pedal - making sure the reservoir does not go empty. You should see some air bubbles coming out in the tube if there is air in you system and it sounds like there is.
 
Highrider said:
What year and model bike, and what brake options?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the glaring omision, its a 2001 ST1100 with ABS/CBS/TCS.

GitSum said:
It doesn't really take any "special" tools to bleed the brakes although a MightyVac brake bleeder sure comes in handy.

All you really need is a short section of a clear plastic tube and a container to catch the fluid in. Lets go over the basics

Make sure the reservoir is full - If it goes empty you will get air in the system

Have someone apply the brakes until they feel pressure - and hold it.

The second person slightly unscrews the bleed screw allowing the fluid to run out of the tube into the container. You need to close the screw before the brake pedal reaches the end of it's travel. You want to be "pumping" the fluid out

Repeat until you get a firm pedal - making sure the reservoir does not go empty. You should see some air bubbles coming out in the tube if there is air in you system and it sounds like there is.
Click to expand...

That's the method I've been using, but no luck so far :(

st1300r said:
Have a look here LINK
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll have a study & see if anything helps. Is the 1300's braking system very different to the 1100's?
 
On the ST1300 at one point in the bleed process you need to take off the left front caliper and hold it at a specific angle. It has to do with the secondary circuits I believe. If it's not held at the right angle air stays trapped in the system.
 
Byron said:
On the ST1300 at one point in the bleed process you need to take off the left front caliper and hold it at a specific angle. It has to do with the secondary circuits I believe. If it's not held at the right angle air stays trapped in the system.
Click to expand...

Does this also apply to the 1100?
 
Timmer said:
When I bled the brakes on my ST1100, I just left the calipers mounted and hooked a Motion Pro brake bleeder to them and squeezed the lever. It worked well.

Tim
Click to expand...

I just googled the motion pro and it looks like a nice bit of kit. However, I'd have real problems getting swmbo to allow me more access to the kids college fund, so I'll have to stay with the traditional method. Maybe if I just try bleeding the whole system through a couple more times, it may do the trick. But please keep the suggestions coming, I still feel I'm missing a trick!
 
GitSum said:
You need to close the screw before the brake pedal reaches the end of it's travel. You want to be "pumping" the fluid out
Click to expand...

:bow1: Thank you for this thought. I was trying to do my 1100 and just couldn't quite get it but this seems logical. I just recently bought my bike and the front brake scared me with it's power in the 100 miles I rode it before tearing it down, and now I have to pump it to feel comfortable with it. Might have to get some help from the wifey to do the left side
 
Something to try. Teflon tape all the bleeders. About the cheapest to help ensure you have a good seal. Then do the cycle again. For more money get speed bleeders.
 
Well folks, it looks like this project is nearly at an end! Tomorrow at 12 noon (UK time) I'm taking the bike to have it's MOT (road-worthiness test) so I'll need as many of you praying to as many gods as possible!!! :bow1:
I was chatting to my mate Russ earlier today and he asked if I had named her yet? A couple of moments thought was all that I needed to come up with 'PANdora', because there were times during the project that I really wished that I hadn't opened that damned box!!! Hopefully I won't be thinking that tomorrow :D
Wish me luck!
 
Luck is not needed because you know whatever needs to be working is because you did the work. :)
 
So, the bike has successfully passed it's MOT! It seems mine and Russ's spannering skills were up to the job, as I didn't even get an advisory!! It does, however, need a new battery as this one only just managed to get me started for the journey home. :(
The next part of the process it to get it regestered in this country and pay the road tax. Then I'll be fully road legal and out playing! :04biker:
 
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