Dunlop 220's

[Doobage]

Yesterday I finally saw some metal showing through on my rear tire, so I decided it was time to get new ones. I stopped at a tire shop and he had Metzler Z6's, Dunlops and the Avalon's. He didn't recommend the Avalons for the ST, and then did a comparison between the Z6's (which he was suggesting initially). He place the front tires of the Dunlop and the Z6 side by side and pressed down on them (this is a "test" he learned from the tire manufactures, apparently called a bead test). This is to determine how much pressure and deformation will occur during a rapid deflation (flat).

The Z6 unfortunately compressed very easily, suggesting that it would have greater instability during a flat. The Dunlop took considerable more weight.

Whether or not this is a valid test for "anything", and considering both tires were the same cost, I went with the Dunlops. Which was what was on my bike before. I'm mildly concerned about the longevity, but we'll see how it goes.

One thing I can say is that having new tires on your bike sure makes it handle differently. I guess I had some mild angles (not necessarily cupping) in my tires, such that making turns required a slight amount of force to push it into it. The new tires turn TOO easily. I barely hint in the direction of the turn and they smoothly and quickly follow the turn.

The tire guy warned me to let them get a little scuffed before cutting in too quickly. My bike is at 9500 miles, so I'll let you all know how they wear. I'd say I'm a "normal" rider in that I don't push my bike too hard, but I don't putt around either. (I rarely go over 6000 rpm). And usually ride between 3 and 4 RPM. Road surfaces around me very greatly between gravel, cobblestone, asphalt and concrete.

 

[dond]

Modified poST..

I hope you got EOM spec 220's otherwise you will be poSTing about getting new tires again very soon
Added to poST........
My apologies, I am slightly dyslexic and sometimes...
I did mean OEM and if you go here you can see the different model numbers etc.

http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/

(You will see a recommened and an OE tire catagory.)

I've had 2 220's on the rear. An OEM laSTed about 9K miles. A non OEM laSTed about 4K.

 

[Doobage]

Oh crap. I don't even know what that means (EOM). How can I tell?

 

[nurseBob]

Oh crap. I don't even know what that means (EOM). How can I tell?

I suspect that was meant to be OEM. Of course, in the IT world EOM means End Of Message...

Bob (the Nurse who was a software engineer for the previous 15 years)

 

[nurseBob]

Yesterday I finally saw some metal showing through on my rear tire, so I decided it was time to get new ones. I stopped at a tire shop and he had Metzler Z6's, Dunlops and the Avalon's. He didn't recommend the Avalons for the ST, and then did a comparison between the Z6's (which he was suggesting initially). He place the front tires of the Dunlop and the Z6 side by side and pressed down on them (this is a "test" he learned from the tire manufactures, apparently called a bead test). This is to determine how much pressure and deformation will occur during a rapid deflation (flat).

The Z6 unfortunately compressed very easily, suggesting that it would have greater instability during a flat. The Dunlop took considerable more weight.

Whether or not this is a valid test for "anything", and considering both tires were the same cost, I went with the Dunlops. Which was what was on my bike before. I'm mildly concerned about the longevity, but we'll see how it goes.

One thing I can say is that having new tires on your bike sure makes it handle differently. I guess I had some mild angles (not necessarily cupping) in my tires, such that making turns required a slight amount of force to push it into it. The new tires turn TOO easily. I barely hint in the direction of the turn and they smoothly and quickly follow the turn.

The tire guy warned me to let them get a little scuffed before cutting in too quickly. My bike is at 9500 miles, so I'll let you all know how they wear. I'd say I'm a "normal" rider in that I don't push my bike too hard, but I don't putt around either. (I rarely go over 6000 rpm). And usually ride between 3 and 4 RPM. Road surfaces around me very greatly between gravel, cobblestone, asphalt and concrete.

Doobage,

Just curious, how many miles did you get out of that first set? I think (well, know) I'm due for a change. I've got 14,000 now and the tread on the front (left side of the tire) is getting to the point of fading from sight. I've also been thinking about the Metzler's. My one experience with the Dunlop's that I've seen other comments on is the cupping (and resulting head shake) on the front. No problems with the rear. I think the tires have been sufficiently sticky for my driving, but I find that as I get more comfortable with the bike I am getting more aggressive in the corners...

BTW read your post in ride reports - what an ordeal. Glad you're back; I hope things are on their way to returning to normal.

Bob

 

[Doobage]

ah, thanks for clearing that up Nurse/geek Bob. I too am a geek, but couldn't see the typo. I'm still tired from a long week.

So what is the difference between the OEM Dunlop tires and how can one tell if they have them? I would think Dunlop would distribute the same tire (size and brand) to both Honda and the tire store. Otherwise there should be some form of indication on the tire itself that distinguishes it (so that Dunlop knows what ships to which location).

Which tire is recommended as the "longevity" tire, and is there handling issues as a consequence?

 

[nurseBob]

ah, thanks for clearing that up Nurse/geek Bob. I too am a geek, but couldn't see the typo. I'm still tired from a long week.

So what is the difference between the OEM Dunlop tires and how can one tell if they have them? I would think Dunlop would distribute the same tire (size and brand) to both Honda and the tire store. Otherwise there should be some form of indication on the tire itself that distinguishes it (so that Dunlop knows what ships to which location).

Which tire is recommended as the "longevity" tire, and is there handling issues as a consequence?

Ok, first disclaimer - I know next to nothing about tires (even though as a Dunlop myself I am distantly related to the company - distantly enough to have the opportunity to pay full price, or more...)

As to the difference between OEM and general distribution, I don't directly know, but I've heard this before in relation to car tires too. The OEM version shipped to the manufacturer may not be the same as the same model for the public.

On the trade-off between longevity and handling - again out of my field, but what I understand is that the higher milage tires have harder compounds, thus less "sticky" when cornering, and perhaps in the rain. There are others on this forum far more knowledgable, and with direct experince than I in that realm. I think a search on the various tire reviews might be worth the time - and since this forum doesn't really engage in flaming for posting yet again a FAQ, you just might try that too!

 

[Doobage]

Thanks Bob,
I read some of the reviews, but they all seem subjective. Meaning, one will report a positive and another a negative for the same tire. I haven't seen enough posts to derive a meaningful direction on a specific tire.

As far as mileage...I bought the bike with 6600 miles on it. I have put 3,000 miles on it. When I got the bike the tires seemed somewhat thin to begin with. So it seemed like probably a 10,000 mile run for both the front and back.

My front tire had the same wear as yours. My turns have become increasingly more confident (especially to the left) when had worn it down flat. The previous owner seemed to be a less aggressive driver in the turns as the wear pattern was mostly centered. So I tried to make sure I wore down the sides some.

The tire guy expected I'd probably get 10-12 thousand miles on the rear and maybe 16-18 on the front. He seemed to know a fair amount about the ST 1100, and knew at least a little about the 13 to know where the weight distribution resides.

So I hope he's right.

Seeing as we have lots of rain in Houston, and various road surfaces, I want to make sure I don't go too hard with the tires, but at the same time, I don't want to be changing them every 3,000 miles either (which I'd find hard to believe since I just rode 3,000 miles on the Dunlops that had 6,600 miles on them already (ergo 10,000 miles).

On my car, I had Michellin Sport tires. I liked them a lot. But at $300 per tire, I simply didn't feel they were needed. So I went to a cheap brand (Kumho) at $100 a tire. They roll. Not nearly as tight as the Michellin...but they roll nevertheless.

On a bike, I'm willing to pay for the right tire because I believe it makes all the difference, but I also don't need racer style sticky either. I'm not that crazy of a rider as my other posts might suggest.

 

[nurseBob]

My front tire had the same wear as yours. My turns have become increasingly more confident (especially to the left) when had worn it down flat. The previous owner seemed to be a less aggressive driver in the turns as the wear pattern was mostly centered. So I tried to make sure I wore down the sides some.

I've decided I need to work on evening out the tire wear by gaining confidence in the right-hand turns. After our little sojourn to Yosemite last weekend, it's clear to me that I need to spend more time following STPilot and HRCRob...

I'm not that crazy of a rider as my other posts might suggest.
[/QOUTE]
Never got that impression!

 

[Doobage]

Yeah, I need to hook up with you guys sometime. STPilot sounds like a hoot to ride with, not to mention his music gear (bass guitar, et al) that needs my attention.

 

[Motorace]

He place the front tires of the Dunlop and the Z6 side by side and pressed down on them (this is a "test" he learned from the tire manufactures, apparently called a bead test). This is to determine how much pressure and deformation will occur during a rapid deflation (flat).

I sell both street and race tires for a living and have NEVER heard of this test. All this tells you is how the carcass is contructed (steel or kevlar f.e), it gives no idication of how the air chamber will react under deflation.

The concern should not be the casing, but how the BEAD of the tire reacts under this situation. You want to the bead to stay seated no matter what, so as to avoid rolling off the rim at speed. You would be surprised at how much abuse a casing can take, even after deflation.

 

[STPilot]

Yeah, I need to hook up with you guys sometime. STPilot sounds like a hoot to ride with, not to mention his music gear (bass guitar, et al) that needs my attention.

Hey, I thought I heard my name over here somewhere??? Doob, if you can come out to Califunky, we'd have a blast. Bikes, Guitars, Beer and a heavy dose of RUSH. Also, I'm gonna be in Austin for a week at the end of this month, I don't know how close that is to you, but if you were able to come by I'd definetely buy you a beer or two. It sounds like RC may swing by too.

So as not to totally hijack this thread, I just recently switched from OEM tires to the Z6's and I love 'em. I can definitely feel the difference in the corners. I had the Bridgestones and only got about 8500 miles and they were SHOT. Bob says it has something to do with the way I ride. My goal is to wear the sides out before the middle.

 

[nurseBob]

Bob says it has something to do with the way I ride. My goal is to wear the sides out before the middle.

I just think it's interesting to watch you practicing a high-speek slalom on the road. No criticism intended.

 

[STPilot]

I just think it's interesting to watch you practicing a high-speek slalom on the road. No criticism intended.

Oh, I know. Just ribbin ya. The bike is more fun when it's leaning..

I do the same thing when I fly, my nurses don't seem to appreciate it though..

 

[WeeSTer]

Metzlers are the best for handling and our cooler temperatures but have an abreviated life, not to mention that my dealer doesn't have a fit for ST's with ABS.

Love the Metz Z6 front 880 rear combo...great handling with great wear.
They are available in Canada at various M/C parts suppliers.

Chris

 

[STeve1300]

I was happy with Dunlop until I ended up with the non-OEM one.
PS Rick Nixon, did you know you were named after a famous person? :

 

[naturally wired]

the metz and the dunlops were pretty good on my 82 turbo and my vt500ft but I went with the pilots on this bike, I even bought an extra front because there hard to get... unless something new comes down the road thats better and safer then the pilot roads Im done, great grip and ride in any weather.....whats on some of the most expensive sport touring bikes in the world?