Hoping for a little insight while I look at things. Just installed a McCruise so that's potentially where some of this originated; however, I have ridden the bike since then without issue. The clutch switch has always been a firm pull back to the grip to activate (possibly due to grip heaters, or so I've heard), giving me difficulty with being able to start in gear which has necessitated being in neutral most of the time to start because the switch wouldn't 'clear' the bike to start in gear. Hence the question in another thread whether there was any adjustment in the switch position to let the clutch lever activate it more positively. I found out no, the answer is either replace the lever due to bearing wear or add something to the clutch lever flat area that meets the switch plunger that will depress the switch earlier in the lever travel, which I have done with a few pieces of packing tape.
While verifying the McCruise cancellation using the switch in setup mode, determined the switch was bad and replaced it to get that part of the cancellation to work. So everything was operational as intended. I've also had instances of the bike shutting off shifting into gear after mistakenly backing out of the garage with the side stand down, and that worked as advertised as well.
Curious how the two stopped working at the same time and what, if any, common element they might have to be the cause of the problem.
Measurements taken at the clutch switch (no connections) reveal open/OL with the lever extended and .3 ohm with it pulled in, as well as audible clicks on both close/open actions with appropriate lever movement. Per my 2003-2005 SM page 22-27, there should be continuity with the clutch lever applied, so that checks. Interestingly enough, with the connections made (cruise and the normal two bike connections) lever extended is 70.6 ohm and 0.2 ohm with it pulled in. I believe it was higher prior to connecting the cruise control, somewhere around 1k ohm and will check the book for that. The McCruise has instructions on that I'll need to confirm.
Gear continuity (green connector under left side panel) reveals open/OL with the gear lever down and 0.2 ohm with it up. Per my SM page 22-28, and correction, continuity should exist with the side stand raised so that also checks.
The McCruise functionality was correct during diagnostic/setup mode for RPM increases, release with brakes, etc and was functioning until last week. During last week's ride, I attempted to reengage a cancelled setting and something went wrong; the cruise would not reengage and then both of these issues appeared. The first I noticed was that the bike started in gear on the center stand, then for grins when going out to troubleshoot this morning, I had it running on the center stand in first gear and lowered the side stand to see if it would do its job, and everything stayed running.
Any pointers on where to look as I troubleshoot the rest of today into tomorrow would be greatly appreciated by those who understand the intricacies of the electrical system a little better than I! I'm headed to Suches GA Wed morning and was hoping to use the cruise control during that ride. Thanks!
While verifying the McCruise cancellation using the switch in setup mode, determined the switch was bad and replaced it to get that part of the cancellation to work. So everything was operational as intended. I've also had instances of the bike shutting off shifting into gear after mistakenly backing out of the garage with the side stand down, and that worked as advertised as well.
Curious how the two stopped working at the same time and what, if any, common element they might have to be the cause of the problem.
Measurements taken at the clutch switch (no connections) reveal open/OL with the lever extended and .3 ohm with it pulled in, as well as audible clicks on both close/open actions with appropriate lever movement. Per my 2003-2005 SM page 22-27, there should be continuity with the clutch lever applied, so that checks. Interestingly enough, with the connections made (cruise and the normal two bike connections) lever extended is 70.6 ohm and 0.2 ohm with it pulled in. I believe it was higher prior to connecting the cruise control, somewhere around 1k ohm and will check the book for that. The McCruise has instructions on that I'll need to confirm.
Gear continuity (green connector under left side panel) reveals open/OL with the gear lever down and 0.2 ohm with it up. Per my SM page 22-28, and correction, continuity should exist with the side stand raised so that also checks.
The McCruise functionality was correct during diagnostic/setup mode for RPM increases, release with brakes, etc and was functioning until last week. During last week's ride, I attempted to reengage a cancelled setting and something went wrong; the cruise would not reengage and then both of these issues appeared. The first I noticed was that the bike started in gear on the center stand, then for grins when going out to troubleshoot this morning, I had it running on the center stand in first gear and lowered the side stand to see if it would do its job, and everything stayed running.
Any pointers on where to look as I troubleshoot the rest of today into tomorrow would be greatly appreciated by those who understand the intricacies of the electrical system a little better than I! I'm headed to Suches GA Wed morning and was hoping to use the cruise control during that ride. Thanks!
