Final drive fluid change

[Morrissey]

Hi all. It's time for me to change the oil on my bike. I have found a few very good videos on YouTube for changing the engine oil, but I can't find any videos for how to change the final drive oil. Anyone have one they can share? Also, without opening a can of worms, what type of oil/fluid do I need to purchase for the final drive? (I already have the engine oil and filter and do NOT want to open that can of worms!)

Thanks

 

[Bush]

An upgrade on the oil would be to use a full synthetic hypoid oil in the rear drive. Same for the engine oil too, of course.

 

[Whooshka]

Step #1 Remove the fill plug on side of the final drive gear housing
Step #2 Remove the drain plug on the bottom of the final drive gear housing
Step #3 Let the old fluid drain (I also add some new fluid to help "rinse", it takes so little it's worth it)
Step #4 Install drain plug
Step #5 Add new fluid in fill hole until it comes out
Step #6 Install fill plug

Go ride.

 

[dduelin]

When finishing up and installing the fill plug use very little force to tighten it. The O ring seal is supposed to be replaced each change of 24,000 miles because it deforms over time and when the cap is tightened with an old O ring the cap goes metal to metal instantly and there is little ‘feel' for the correct 9 ft/lbs. People crack these quite often.

 

[MajorTom]

Step #1 Remove the fill plug on side of the final drive gear housing
Step #2 Remove the drain plug on the bottom of the final drive gear housing
Step #3 Let the old fluid drain (I also add some new fluid to help "rinse", it takes so little it's worth it)
Step #4 Install drain plug
Step #5 Add new fluid in fill hole until it comes out
Step #6 Install fill plug

Go ride.

On the centrestand so the bike is level and preferably after a ride so the oil is warm and drains better.

 

[Tdinova]

On the centrestand so the bike is level and preferably after a ride so the oil is warm and drains better.

Ya what they said. I use Honda regular Hypoid Gear Oil 80w90

 

[SMSW]

An upgrade on the oil would be to use a full synthetic hypoid oil in the rear drive. Same for the engine oil too, of course.

Well, not hypoid earl in the crankcase - only final drive.

And Morrissey will have to open that can of worms to get the oil out of the can. No worms in the final drive, though.

 

[Trapperdog]

Well, not hypoid earl in the crankcase - only final drive.

And Morrissey will have to open that can of worms to get the oil out of the can. No worms in the final drive, though.

Never met hypoid earl if you want to go on a far out trip, try LSD oil. Lol

 

[Bush]

Ya what they said. I use Honda regular Hypoid Gear Oil 80w90

Ever thought of trying synthetic in there? You might be surprised by how clean the magnet in the drain bolt stays.

Hypoid gears are sort of like a meat slicing machine, with the edge of one tooth shearing past the face of another, somewhat different from the action in the splines in the final drive.

I noticed a full load of extremely fine metal particles in my '95's magnet decades ago and switched to a synthetic hypoid after three changes and 75,000 km, and still seeing metal residue. Next change I found the magnet virtually as clean as it was after its last cleaning. Convinced me that synthetic hypoid protects better than dino.

FWIW to those that care.

 

[Al st1100]

Ever thought of trying synthetic in there? You might be surprised by how clean the magnet in the drain bolt stays.

Hypoid gears are sort of like a meat slicing machine, with the edge of one tooth shearing past the face of another, somewhat different from the action in the splines in the final drive.

I noticed a full load of extremely fine metal particles in my '95's magnet decades ago and switched to a synthetic hypoid after three changes and 75,000 km, and still seeing metal residue. Next change I found the magnet virtually as clean as it was after its last cleaning. Convinced me that synthetic hypoid protects better than dino.

FWIW to those that care.

synthetic gear oil is better, Dodge Trucks increased their towing capacity just by using synthetic. I have used gl 75/140, a bit overkill, and now use 75/90 synthetic, exceeds gl4, gl5 rating.https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mobil1-synthetic-gear-lubricant-ls-75w-90-1-quart-104361-98w573/7070039-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=7070039-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQjw77TbBRDtARIsAC4l83kVc0gBjD5Bt1F2WeQOcg4nB5Re9EE_vZg0C4VpAoZqEaxx8Q1m0ioaAj9zEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[red one]

My fluid change ritual is similar to the rest of you guys except I use Honda products only. Honda 80W 90 hypoid gear oil. Honda OEM oil filter and GN4 10W 40. Honda brake fluid. Air filter etc. This is just me but so far so good.

 

[etalors]

same here

 

[Igofar]

My fluid change ritual is similar to the rest of you guys except I use Honda products only. Honda 80W 90 hypoid gear oil. Honda OEM oil filter and GN4 10W 40. Honda brake fluid. Air filter etc. This is just me but so far so good.

Nothing wrong with what your doing, and I'm sure the Honda dealerships love you, but you do know that Honda does not make ANY of those products right
They just provide specs, and buy from the lowest bid, which changes all the time.

 

[red one]

Nothing wrong with what your doing, and I'm sure the Honda dealerships love you, but you do know that Honda does not make ANY of those products right
They just provide specs, and buy from the lowest bid, which changes all the time.

Yeah I know. I had the privilege of paying $28.00 recently for a headlight bulb. O.E.M. Honda made in BRAZIL. But I did not mind....one headlight bulb in 18 years yeah i'm fine with it. Also use those Bridgestone G548 and G547 tires getting as much as 18K out of those too. Handling is as sure at the beginning life of the tire to the end. Trust me I don't like paying those prices but i'm one of the ones that when I go cheap it costs me twice as much.

 

[SMSW]

Ever thought of trying synthetic in there? You might be surprised by how clean the magnet in the drain bolt stays.

Hypoid gears are sort of like a meat slicing machine, with the edge of one tooth shearing past the face of another, somewhat different from the action in the splines in the final drive.

I noticed a full load of extremely fine metal particles in my '95's magnet decades ago and switched to a synthetic hypoid after three changes and 75,000 km, and still seeing metal residue. Next change I found the magnet virtually as clean as it was after its last cleaning. Convinced me that synthetic hypoid protects better than dino.

FWIW to those that care.

I would have to guess that the initial load of shavings came from break in and/or sloppy cleaning of new parts. If the gears were eating themselves to the point of dumping steel shavings in the oil for 75K km, I'd think your final drive would not last long. Sure, there is plenty of meat on those gears, but they are not designed to wear down - i.e they are not sacrificial parts. While I don't disagree that synthetic oil lubes better than dino oil (actually I have no factual info one way or the other, just accepting popular 'knowledge') I think changing the oil did not eliminate wear because there was really no shaving producing wear going on for a long time. (My opinion only.)