First Long Trip

Joined
Jun 8, 2023
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68
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58
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Savannah, GA
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2006 ST1300ABS
I made my first long trip (long for me at least).

It was about 350 miles from GA to NC and then a few day trips in the 150 mile range. Two things that made my life a bit better on the long trips: a sheepskin pad on the seat and a "wrist saver" on the throttle. Overall I did great. 350 miles in one day is my new record. I think I could do more if I wasn't traveling in a larger group. I also got to experience riding in the rain, mountain driving, and starting and stopping on hills.

It was a good experience and the bike was a dream to ride. I really think I need something better for seating. The stock seat pushes me forward too much and my tender butt goes numb quickly. I know folks have their preferences for aftermarket seats, but is modifying the factory seat worthwhile?
 

Kevcules

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Modifying the seat is certainly an option. You can experiment with sitting more level and try using a different foam. Seems the more firm, the better.
I have mine apart right now trying different things because I have sciatic nerve pain and it bothers me a lot when trying to ride. What I've learned so far is that you can remove the existing seat foam, shave down the underside and try different shaping with different foam and not alter the smooth top layer, so when you staple the seat cover back on, it doesn't show any lines.
Aftermarket seats are expensive and hit or miss.
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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With the few dozen thousand miles I've put on these bikes, your best bet will be to get an RDL (Russell Day Long).

For WeSTOC this year, I did over 500 miles in one day. It still requires you to stop once and awhile for a short break, but even after being in the saddle for extended times, You just can't beat them.

The last one (set - front and back)

20230303_RDLs2.jpg

I picked up off ebay, was for less than $200. Once in awhile, you can get lucky! ;)
 

STRider

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50
Where in the available adjustment range do you have your seat positioned? low-mid-high?

I've found that I can mix the position of the front and rear engagement points of the rider's section to change the seat angle.

If you place the seat height adjuster in the HIGH position and the rear in the LOW position the seat angle will be less inclined to cause you to slide forward. (see what I did there? :) )

This won't help if the numbness in your tender butt is caused by the shape and firmness of the seat, but it's something you can try until you modify or replace it.

I have several seats and for me I rate them as follows:
  1. Sargent (has matching pillion which my wife dislikes)
  2. Russell Day Long (rider only and yet to be tested on a long trip)
  3. Stock (has matching pillion, the one preferred by my wife)
  4. Corbin (rider only)
I love my Corbin Dual Canyon Sport seat on my ST1100 and was frankly surprised and disappointed how much I disliked the Corbin for the 1300.


1695258489877.png
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
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Just adjusting the seat to flatten the seating area is a good first step. You might have to use a bit of force to get the front/rear adjustment where you want it but the plastic seat pan will bend to fit. I eventually went to Sargent seat at 10,000 miles.
 

STimpa

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6950
After 95k miles I finally got a RDL. It's so much more comfortable. I had a Corbin Dual Cyn for the 1st 95k, and was also disappointed, as the Corbin I had on my Nighthawk was unbelievably comfortable. The Corbin for the ST was nothing like it.
 

Willsmotorcycle

Ride more...
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I'm essentially repeating the wise riders above. I have been known to do multiple 600mi plus back to back. I used a Sargent with an Airhawk for a long time, modified my stock, Corbin solo is nice for short days local (and looks the best). After all those testing miles and mods the RDL is hands down the best for me. What I spent finding that out was more than a new two piece RDL. Go new (vs used) and it will be the best money you spent after buying the bike.
 
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Understand that simply buying any Corbin, RDL, etc., seat doesn't always make it the best seat for you.

Most after-market seats are custom-made to suit the original buyer, with either longer or shorter legs.

Trying before buying is best if possible. Next best is to compare yourself to the seller, leg-length-wise.

Also, a taller seat often triggers, or increases the need to raise the handlebars to reduce forward lean.

You first need to position your butt to suit your legs, then position your hands to suit your shoulders.
 
Joined
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To illustrate, I'm 6'3" and long-limbed, and have had both hips replaced, and my knees are well on the way to needing it. On longer rides, I could barely last an hour without stopping, and it got worse.

My '01 came with Helibars already installed, but set as low as they could be to suit the previous owner. I raised them to the highest position, which was a great improvement, but my legs still burned.

After a couple of tries, I found a Russell Daylong seat for sale locally, so I took it for a test ride and brought it home. It moved me far up and back enough that my knees actually didn't contact the fairing.

Of course, that improvement rendered the handlebar no longer high enough, so I replaced the stock bar clamps with 3" risers, which once again allow me to sit upright and comfortable for an hour or more.

Note in the first pic how thick the seat is, as well as how wide, flat, and not tilted forward it is. Also note how high the grips are compared to the shape of the fairing. My legs have no complaints now.

In my opinion, another long-ride must is a set of highway pegs, which allow a different part of your butt and thighs to bear your weight and allow the blood to circulate better, minimizing numbness.

1672471484234.png


1672471503217.png
 
OP
OP
oilspot
Joined
Jun 8, 2023
Messages
68
Age
58
Location
Savannah, GA
Bike
2006 ST1300ABS
Where in the available adjustment range do you have your seat positioned? low-mid-high?

I've found that I can mix the position of the front and rear engagement points of the rider's section to change the seat angle.

If you place the seat height adjuster in the HIGH position and the rear in the LOW position the seat angle will be less inclined to cause you to slide forward. (see what I did there? :) )

This won't help if the numbness in your tender butt is caused by the shape and firmness of the seat, but it's something you can try until you modify or replace it.

I have several seats and for me I rate them as follows:
  1. Sargent (has matching pillion which my wife dislikes)
  2. Russell Day Long (rider only and yet to be tested on a long trip)
  3. Stock (has matching pillion, the one preferred by my wife)
  4. Corbin (rider only)
I love my Corbin Dual Canyon Sport seat on my ST1100 and was frankly surprised and disappointed how much I disliked the Corbin for the 1300.


1695258489877.png
I currently have my seat in the lowest setting, and can almost stand flat footed at a stop light. The seat tilts forward, so I'm up against the tank at stop lights. On the road, I try to sit back away from the tank, but eventually slide forward unless I have my feet on the highway pegs and push back with my legs. I'll study maybe midlevel in front and low setting on back and see if I can still handle the bike at stops. I'm a new rider (less than a year) and have had my ST since June... I'm about 5'9" tall with an inseam in the 32-inch range.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Jacksonville
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GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
010688
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6651
I currently have my seat in the lowest setting, and can almost stand flat footed at a stop light. The seat tilts forward, so I'm up against the tank at stop lights. On the road, I try to sit back away from the tank, but eventually slide forward unless I have my feet on the highway pegs and push back with my legs. I'll study maybe midlevel in front and low setting on back and see if I can still handle the bike at stops. I'm a new rider (less than a year) and have had my ST since June... I'm about 5'9" tall with an inseam in the 32-inch range.
Try the middle or high position in the front and the low position in the rear. You will have to force the rear into the low slots by bending the seat sort of upward. That pretty much will cure the forward sliding in the seat. The rear tabs on the frame can also be bent a slight amount so they fit the low slot easier.

My free advice is not to get too comfortable with a need to flat foot or almost flat foot both feet at stops. It will limit the types of bikes you might want to ride in the future and it's a big world full of bikes that are taller than the ST1300. All you need with any bike is a solid tripod of two wheels and your left foot. Brake the last few feet to a stop with the right foot on the brake, no front brake, and concentrate with keeping the bars squared up straight ahead. Work on that left foot stop A LOT before beginning to use the front brake to the full stop in certain situations that call for it. (sloping ground to the right or poor footing on the left for example) I'm about 4" shorter than you with a 28" inseam. I have bikes 2 or 3" taller in seat height than yours and can only tippee toe both feet so just one foot flat allows good stability and allows pushing the bike around when parking. Aftermarket seats could raise the seat height or increase leg reach to the ground and scooping out a seat to lower it is at cross purposes to long distance comfort. Good job on the first trip!
 
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