Front tire weaving / fishing

[Highrider]

A quick test you can do to verify contributors of the problem is take off the windshield and/or top box (one at a time) go for a ride to see if the bike stabilizes. The influence of the pressure on the windshield to the front suspension has an impact on the entire bike. This won't solve your problem but could be a good indicator of what you need to address in your suspension and/or steering.
I ride with a stock windshield that has significant modifications. I found those changes made a big difference in the feel of stability at highway speeds and pressure zones in the rider/passenger areas. Also added new stiffer rate springs to the front and a Racetech shock to the back in increments. Every change has added to the 60+ MPH stability of the bike.

 

[Rekoob]

I haven't felt any weaving of fishing of my 04A it feels pretty planted to me at any speed. I do however have the pull to the right and on crowned roads it can be a pretty good pull. If i'm on a "flat" road and go hands off it will pull to the right enough that I would have to put a hand on.
Not that this helps at all but could also be a contributer... maybe

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

If i'm on a "flat" road and go hands off it will pull to the right enough that I would have to put a hand on.

if yr 04 pulls to the right on a FLAT road... this is the way to correct it most of the time.

It was a setup change from Honda re the problem.

(Note: Axle pinch bolts are finger loose at this point)

1. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
Note: Indication of “Left” is if you were sitting on bike
2. Tighten Axle Bolt to 79 N-m (8.1 kgf-m, 58 lbf-ft)
3. Tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
4. Now loosen the left axle pinch bolts
5. Note: During the assembly process, this is where you would be installing the brake calipers.
6. Set the bike down where the bike's weight is on the wheels. Lock the front brake and push the suspension up and down several times.
7. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)

 

[okmurdog]

BTW, one source document for the front wheel install/setup change is the 2008 Dealer Setup Instructions which can be found on here on STWiki. Many folks (including me) have corrected the inherent right pull of the ST by following the front wheel install directions found in the 2008 setup instructions anytime the front wheel is pulled off. The added benefit of the Setup instructions is an electronically portable wiring diagram of the ST (potentially handy while on the road).

 

[Rekoob]

if yr 04 pulls to the right on a FLAT road... this is the way to correct it most of the time.

It was a setup change from Honda re the problem.

(Note: Axle pinch bolts are finger loose at this point)

1. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
Note: Indication of “Left” is if you were sitting on bike
2. Tighten Axle Bolt to 79 N-m (8.1 kgf-m, 58 lbf-ft)
3. Tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
4. Now loosen the left axle pinch bolts
5. Note: During the assembly process, this is where you would be installing the brake calipers.
6. Set the bike down where the bike's weight is on the wheels. Lock the front brake and push the suspension up and down several times.
7. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)

Just had the front tire replaced, I removed and had the shop mount and balance. I would do myself if I had a changer. I remounted the tire per your steps. When I get it back together I will check it out on the test ride.

 

[Rekoob]

BTW, one source document for the front wheel install/setup change is the 2008 Dealer Setup Instructions which can be found on here on STWiki. Many folks (including me) have corrected the inherent right pull of the ST by following the front wheel install directions found in the 2008 setup instructions anytime the front wheel is pulled off. The added benefit of the Setup instructions is an electronically portable wiring diagram of the ST (potentially handy while on the road).

Awesome. Thanks for the link.

 

[TomStickler]

Increasing preload will raise the back of the bike. This does two things: it steepens the rake and reduces the trail; both things will make steering twitchier.

I experienced a bit of this one time when I increased preload for no reason at all. I suspected that someone had turned it down as a joke, so I cranked it up a little. At 70mph on good Interstate pavement, there was a bit of wander at the front wheel. Taking advantage of my McCruise control, I reached back and turned down the preload a little at a time until things settled down. Problem solved.

 

[Igofar]

 

[Igofar]

+1 Its counterintuitive but riding an ST1300 at speed with soft or no preload is not anything I'd want to do or recommend to even a light rider and I am one. Any road irregularly and the rear of the bike starts moving up and down feeding forces into the frame and forks making the instability worse. Riding on sufficient preload minimizes movement and keeps the rear end planted. That's my experience at any rate.

Like SteveST1300 said, I will agree to disagree with you on this one
I've lost count of the folks who have ridden in complaining about "happy feet" and "unsettled" riding, after "trying everything" including "evening after adjusting it like the guy in the gardening shoes on the video"
I've had folks swear up and down that they needed a new race shock or spring, and custom fork springs, because their buddy "the track rat" said so. These are not sport bikes, designed for the track, and IMHO anyone foolish enough to take one on a track at track day speaks volumes...
I do find it rather funny, that every single person that's had their preload adjuster serviced and their damping screw adjusted softer, has always come back raving about how much better the bike handled for them on both the mountain roads, and the interstate at high speeds, despite how much the rider weighed.
Maybe the roads on the left coast are just easier to ride on.
YMMV.

 

[Al Gully]

Al Gully, I want to know more about your uni-go experience. I want (I think) a small trailer for camping gear with two-up. Physics of single wheel sound great if you can get a mount on the rear axle instead of frame mount. Is axle mount possible on our ST1300A?

Here is the web site.
http://www.uni-go.com/
No need to change the hitch setup. I just completed a one week trip and covered 6,000 Km's. Works out to be about 3700 miles.
Best part of the trip was 80 MPH on I-15 from the northern part of Montanta all the way into Vegas. Trailer and hitch performed like a breeze. Also, everywhere you stop, you get people talking to you and giving you compliments on the trailer. So factor that into your schedule.


Also easy to wash. See pic below.

 

[Igofar]

Beautiful set up!

 

[GreenDagger]

Over the years it's seemed to settle out - rarely has the effect, (unless really am in a lane with badly tire-grooved "ruts", but even then sensation is more clearly related to road feedback rather than "floating - wandering").
Maybe finally hit right balance of top case v. saddlebag weight (usually some "standard" consistent load in bags w/ top case loaded lighter and "laster") // tire pressure (aim 42, sometimes let slip to 40) // windshield in lower of 2 mounts and tend not to run all the way up (just keep blast out of my open face helmet) // seat height setting is in lowest position (don't recall if I did that while still experiencing the "drift" - try that if you're having same sensation) // previous owner installed both Helli bar risers and brackets that lowered the foot pegs about an inch (which makes lower seat easier on knees). No clear culprit. Thanks to all in retrospect - and for reality check from caldercay.

 

[Bmacleod]

Over the years it's seemed to settle out - rarely has the effect, (unless really am in a lane with badly tire-grooved "ruts", but even then sensation is more clearly related to road feedback rather than "floating - wandering").
Maybe finally hit right balance of top case v. saddlebag weight (usually some "standard" consistent load in bags w/ top case loaded lighter and "laster") // tire pressure (aim 42, sometimes let slip to 40) // windshield in lower of 2 mounts and tend not to run all the way up (just keep blast out of my open face helmet) // seat height setting is in lowest position (don't recall if I did that while still experiencing the "drift" - try that if you're having same sensation) // previous owner installed both Helli bar risers and brackets that lowered the foot pegs about an inch (which makes lower seat easier on knees). No clear culprit. Thanks to all in retrospect - and for reality check from caldercay.

As I was reading through this old thread, I tended to agree with Highrider in post #21 that I would look into aero effects of the screen along with the top box to rule it out and low and behold the OP revived the thread with some findings. Thanks for getting back to us, but I cant help but wonder if you are just trying to get your post count up... . j/k
Have fun and enjoy your ride

 

[caldercay]

Thanks to all in retrospect - and for reality check from caldercay.

Bumping my post count up (@Bmacleod)

So the "reality check" ref was my post #20 (this linky) in this thread, where I confirm this odd "weaving / fishing" (not the Pan-weave) feeling.

For those who have never experienced it - have you ridden across a bridge that has grooves in it ... or a road that has been "stripped" (and that will soon be repaved) and has irregular grooves and where your bike slightly "dances" a bit side-to-side. Or maybe you've ridden in sand or gravel for a distance? That's the sensation when riding on standard concrete or asphalt.

My original post was related to my 2003. I've since added a 2008 to the stables (and a 2007 Gold Wing).

Guess what? I don't "feel" it anymore.
Maybe it was a combination of different tires, suspension differences / changes, bearing differences.
Or maybe my brain has compensated for it automagically. (<== I kinda think it's this)

I do remember one thing - someone on here (this thread or another related one) replied with (and I am paraphrasing here):
"get over it or sell it and get another bike" ... So I got over it

 

[PhotoDoctor]

Perhaps there is another ST1300 member near you who could take your bike for a ride then give you some feedback.

Good luck - I like both the ST1100 and the ST1300 but prefer the ST1100 at triple digit speeds.

 

[Upt' North]

Perhaps there is another ST1300 member near you who could take your bike for a ride then give you some feedback.

Good luck - I like both the ST1100 and the ST1300 but prefer the ST1100 at triple digit speeds.

Of course you prefer the 11 . Why wouldn't ya .
Upt'North.

 

[OkieRider]

The sense of ambiguity and wandering in the front appears to be mostly a matter of rider posture and suspension.

The bike wants you to be slightly leaned forward. If you normally don't, try it before entering a turn and see how your experience changes. If you use risers, they amplify the need for more weight forward.

Rehab your preload adjuster if you haven't in awhile and crank it up a bit. That will give you more forward weight bias. If the preload is right and you don't want to crank it up any more, drop the triple clamps. That's a common adjustment on other machines. It's something I am (slowly) looking into.

 

[Larry Fine]

Putting extra weight on the footpegs helps cornering, too.