Helibars riser mods?

Obo

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I have a Helibars tour performance riser on my ST1300, model hc0303: 1" taller & 2" back (not sure if this is a Gen 1 or 2)

The design prevents you from loosening the fork caps when you have to remove a fork as there's just a bit of the mount that covers the 17mm hex on the fork.

You need to remove the bars AND the Helibar riser to access it.

I'm thinking about trimming it back so I only need to remove the bars from the riser, and not the riser too, in the future.

Anyone see any issues with why I shouldn't?

The bars do cover the area of riser that I'm thinking to remove material from, but I don't think it's really taking any pressure from the bar. What I'm unsure of is will it weaken the area around the bolt hole for the bars.

1690977978816.jpeg

Basically remove the red circled area cut around the green line. I won't be removing any of the raised shoulder where the bolt goes though, just some of the lower lip area (to the right of the green line.)

IMG_4687-2.jpg
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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What I'm unsure of is will it weaken the area around the bolt hole for the bars.
It's easy to say one way or the other about removing material and affecting the strength of the riser. Without some testing (likely destructive) who can say with any actual knowledge and authority. That seldom stops a plethora of opinion so I'll offer mine.

I don't think removing that bit will significantly weaken that area if at all. That area you want to remove is probably then not for significant support of the handlebar but for aesthetics. It could be said that bit's presence offers support but to what degree is still an unknown. I think that support how ever slight (IMNSHO) would be effective (?) only for very significant downward pressure on the bars.

There are the schools of thought:

If Honda did it then it's necessary.
What are those guy smoking'? I know better than Honda engineers.

Pick your poison.

So will the bars themselves (presumably not similarly modified) prevent the caps'removal or will the modded riser allow for some wiggle room? Not looking at my bike (I've seen how the Heli blocks the caps) I guess you can get a tool or tools on the cap to get in off and back on?
 
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You should be fine. The boss around the threaded hole gives you all the strength you need. If you don't have a machine shop, and are planning to hacksaw the tab off, I'd pretty it up on a belt sander or w/ a file by hand.
 
OP
OP
Obo

Obo

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The bars and the Heli riser cover most of the hex head on the fork caps. There's just enough room to pop the rubber vanity covers that go in the fork cap heads.

Even if the riser is modded, the bars will have to come off. That's not really a big deal. Taking off the riser is more of a PITA, which is the step I'd rather not do.

The newest model of Heli bars puts the bars back enough that it's no longer an issue.

I've read two other options to fix this:

1. Do as you said and use an air tool etc to crack and remove the fork cap once it's out.
2. loosen the top clamp and the 2 bottom clamps. Slide the fork down to get the hex on. Re-tighten the bottom clamps and break it loose. Then remove the fork as normal.

For now I've already got it fully apart, so that's what I'm doing. LOL
 
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Obo

Obo

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Speaking of caps, what's the capacitor for? Just curious.
Submersible well pump. Always had a jet pump before so when we lost water pressure one morning I was trying to figure out what was going on. Eventually traced it to the "box" on the wall that went between the pressure switch, the submersible pump and the 240v AC supply. Opened it and the "vent plug" was popped, as was the entire cover of the capacitor. Couldn't get the proper capacitor anywhere local, and since we needed water I had to buy a whole assembly just to change out the cap. The old one is on the bench to remind me to buy a spare.... that was a couple of years ago lol.
 
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