Honda OEM vs. EBC HH Brake Pads

Joined
May 7, 2021
Messages
49
Age
48
Location
Kings County, CA
Took my 09’ ST1300 in for 24,000 mile service today and had to have the front pads replaced. Dealer couldn’t get OEM pads, but could get EBC HH aftermarket. I have to get the bike done today because I need it for a week long, out of town class starting Sunday. I told them to install the EBC HH’s. Should I expect anything different in regard to performance? TIA
 
I've heard that they're harder and wear brake discs faster, but good breaking-in should minimize that.

Breaking-in means gently wearing down the high spots before they create glazing from overheating.
 
I recall another thread on this very subject. At that time most of the respondents were in favor of OEM pads.

Question. Does your dealer know the proper procedure for bleeding the brakes? We have had so many 'horror' stories about dealers that cynical ole me doubts any of them know anything about the bike. Other than the fact that there are some guys out there who love them.
 
If I was to try to pick up the OEM brake pads locally, I'd have to order them now two months in advance. Small shop? Small inventory? Since I change them myself I've usually gone with the EBC. Pet peeve, the new round of motorcycle mechanics at my Honda dealership have no clues about the STs.
 
Question. Does your dealer know the proper procedure for bleeding the brakes? We have had so many 'horror' stories about dealers that cynical ole me doubts any of them know anything about the bike. Other than the fact that there are some guys out there who love them.

Reference to the 1100.

Do you need to bleed the brakes if you're only changing the pads?

Push the pucks back into the caliper. Install pads. Re-assemble parts and pieces. Pump the master cylinder a few times. Go ride. I use the sight glass for a quick check on the brake pads. As the pads wear, the fluid goes down. The reservoir holds more fluid than the pucks use at full wear of the pads. If you don't open the master cylinder and add fluid during the life of the pads, the master cylinder won't overflow when you push the pucks back into the caliper.

Flushing the system is another ball of wax.
 
Maybe also push pistons out a we bit more; with a spacer in there.Clean them with brake fluid soaked shoe lace.All covered many times here.
 
Do you need to bleed the brakes if you're only changing the pads?
Sorry, I was thinking 1300, but, no you are correct. Strictly speaking, you don't have to bleed/flush the system when you change pads. This assumes that the fluid is fresh and less than two years old. As you described the process - push the pistons in I'd say you either were fast on the typing or one of the folks I describe below. You left out what @Jethro mentioned.

However, since it has been said on this forum that many of us cause our own problems, and I've read so many threads describing brown, thick fluid I think a flush/bleed should be done when the pads are changed. If your mechanic simply pushed the pistons in w/o cleaning them he pushed dirt and abrasive particles into the rubber seals. If the fluid was old, it has absorbed moisture from the air* and can begin to corrode the insides of calipers, steel tubing, and the master cylinder. I've only seen brown brake juice once - on an old Guzzi that I bought. The insides of the calipers were deeply pitted and the pistons were corroded. I threw them away, bought new ones at considerable cost, and became a born again brake bleeder. Since where I live we have a winter break from riding, I service my bike during the cold months. Were I to live in California, I admit it would be harder to take the bike out of service to do routine maintenance.

*Brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the atmosphere, unless of course, you park your bike and ride only in the Sahara or dry areas of the Middle East. In that case, the sand will cause other problems.
 
I've been running EBC pads for years with no adverse affects to the rotors or braking performance. This has been a debated topic for years.
I've heard it both ways and would like your opinion on how kind to rotors the HH's are. One theory is that metal from the pads actually embeds in the rotor and protects it. The other theory is that rotor wear is accelerated. Personally, I've erred on the side of avoiding aggressive pads and go with ceramic if available.
 
What is wrong with OEM??? They are not that expensive, for how often they need replacement.
I am just an OEM kinda guy I guess. I keep all my rigs mostly stock as well.
T
That idea just never came to mind! When I think of OEM it's gaskets and other unique parts. For consumables my mind goes to the aftermarket. Over the winter I used a Gates belt and radiator cap, Stant thermostat, EBay or internet sourced running lights, LED's, blinker relay, taillight modulator, SAE to USB adapter, Fram fuel filter, etc. I did buy Honda OEM gaskets, valve shims and brake caliper pins. You're constantly looking for parts during a refurb and the idea of sourcing OEM can get lost. My pads have plenty left but I was leaning towards an inexpensive ceramic pad set that has proven itself on my SV1000S. You won't read a bad word about ceramic's performance hot or cold or it's rotor wear. Ceramic pads came about in the mid 80's but didn't gain much share until well after my ST was built.

1643994203967.png
 
Does your dealer know the proper procedure for bleeding the brakes?
More on the topic of knowledge, than the specifics of bleeding the brakes I guess...but...

Near me, I have a Honda dealership, and a Triumph dealership. My bike gets all it's work done at the Triumph shop. Main reason: 2 years ago, the most experience Honda mechanic at the Honda dealership left, and went to work at the Triumph dealership. No-one working in the Honda dealership (except the parts guy) even remembers what the 1300 looks like!

Last time I was there, a young lad was a little nervous in telling me that to replace the gear linkage arms, if something breaks, will need the engine pulling out. Well, he was right to be nervous, but my reply was just "Steve's day off is it? Don't be daft..."

So Triumph get the labour costs, and they ask the Honda parts guy to drop off the OEM parts for me. Something about that always makes me chuckle...
 
Maybe a stupid question…I just checked the thickness of my pads overall yesterday on the 2000. I think I have maybe 2 to 2.5 mm of pad left (and I can see the line of the pad divider). Anyone know what the thickness of new pads is? I have the EBC HH pads as well. I’m just trying to estimate when I’ll need to replace them.
 
Maybe a stupid question…I just checked the thickness of my pads overall yesterday on the 2000. I think I have maybe 2 to 2.5 mm of pad left (and I can see the line of the pad divider). Anyone know what the thickness of new pads is? I have the EBC HH pads as well. I’m just trying to estimate when I’ll need to replace them.
It sounds like they're due. Without taking them out you can't be sure they're wearing evenly and could be close to metal on metal out of sight somewhere. Even though I've been wrenching a long time I just picked up a new trick. Always remove the pins the pads slide on, thoroughly clean and lube them with high temp brake grease (because it won't melt). That will insure the pads slide evenly as the pistons activate, wear evenly and reduces rotor wear and noise as well. As an example, I just replaced front brake pads on my wife's Civic. One of the 4 front pads had worn to metal on metal. The 3 remaining pads had roughly 75% of their material left. One of the rubber covers over a caliper pin had failed allowing grit to prevent normal movement of that pad.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom