I will add detail in the coming days with hose length and fitting orientation. I'll be editing it for organization and readability. Also, there are some pictures that will help.
I removed the linked aspect of my braking system. The legal and safety risks for which you accept if you choose to do it to your own machine. I'm very happy with the end result, YMMV. The end result is all 6 front caliper pistons are controlled solely by the front brake lever, and the rear 3 caliper pistons are controlled solely by the rear brake pedal. READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.
To do it right, you must replace the front master cylinder. If you don't, the lever will travel too far back. I bought a 5/8" Nissin master cylinder new for around $150. It works great. With the 5/8" master cylinder, front brake bite, progression, and feedback are excellent. The lever does not travel too far back and the brakes are not grabby. You will also need to purchase 3x double banjo bolts of you use the same method I did. There are alternatives, two of which I describe. You will also need 2 or 3 caps for SMC fittings.
Preparation
All the hardware and hydraulics connecting front to back is removed, with three exceptions. First, the SMC is locked up with JB weld and retained. Second, there's some hard plumbing on the right side that was a pain to get at. I cut those lines as far back as made sense and left the rest attached. The hard lines on the swingarm were retained as a scaffold to which the new rear brake lines were zip tied. However, the link-related hydraulic valves are gone as are all the hardware and hoses related to the linked system.
To remove the old stuff, I had the plastic removed. At a minimum, you have to remove the front plastic and the right side.
With the plastic off, loosen the front and rear reservoir caps so the brake fluid will drain freely when we start snipping things.
Front plumbing removal
From there, I literally took a pair of long handled diagonal cutters and started cutting hoses and letting everything drain into pans and bottles. You'll remove the crossover metal lines on the front fender and all the hoses and metal lines traversing the head tube. The diagonal cutters also make short work of the hard plumbing. Leave enough hard plumbing on the right side so that it can be affixed to something. It's time consuming and not worth it to remove the hard plumbing aft of the right coil.
Rear plumbing removal
Cut the two rubber lines toward the front, right side of the swingarm. Catch brake fluid with wads of paper towels.
Calipers
Clean and inspect. It's a great time to rebuild them. Remove the fittings from the calipers. Clean everything and reinstall the brake bleeders with sealant made for that purpose.
SMC
Remove the caliper from the SMC and remove the SMC from the left fork leg. Disassemble the SMC and remove all fittings from it. Clean it thoroughly. I mixed JB weld directly in the SMC. Then, i pushed the spring and stopper back in and reinstalled the cap with the circlip. JB Weld will have leaked out. Wipe down the SMC and cap all the orifices.
New hoses
I measured new hose length and fitting angle using lengths of 10 gauge building wire. It holds its shape and orientation, so you can get length and angle of the fittings. I wrote the details on the lengths of wire.
I took the wires to a hydraulic shop and had the lines made right there while I waited. It was a little under $200.
Installation
For the rear, you already have a double banjo bolt. Run one line to each hydraulic input on the rear cylinder. The rear master cylinder then controls all 3 rear cylinders.
The front is a little more complicated because it depends on how you want to put the inner and outer caliper chambers onto the same hydraulic circuit.
There are 3 ways I had considered communicating the chambers on the front calipers. One way is to use a small rotary tool or a drill to perforate the center chamber.
Another way is to run 2 lines to each front caliper as was done in the rear.
Another way is to use a double banjo bolt at the caliper and run a jumper line to the other hydraulic input. That's what I did. So, there is a double banjo bolt in the master cylinder, and two lines head down from there to each front caliper. At each front caliper, there is a double banjo bolt and a jumper to hydraulically communicate the two chambers. See picture. I will later measure and create more compact hard jumper lines or I will run a splitter on each line up by the headlights and then run two lines to each caliper. I think it would be cleaner looking, but the jumpers work fine.
The brakes function properly like traditional, un-linked brakes. The front master cylinder operates all 6 front pistons and have no affect on the rear caliper. The rear MC operates all three rear pistons and has no impact on either front caliper.
The brake lines on my bike are both routed to the left side of the head tube. I attached an air hose retaining bracket toward the right side in space newly opened by removing the linking plumbing. I cannot emphasize enough that if you choose to do this, you really want to spend time to make sure your brake line routing will not snag anything or get pulled tight. Whatever wiring mods or farkle stuff you might have parked behind the headlights could be a problem. Move your handlebars left and right all the way to lock.
Bleeding
The first bleed of the front brakes takes some patience. It's easiest with the calipers off so you can make sure the bleeding nipples are the highest points. The rear is easy. Subsequent bleeds on the front are also easy.
I removed the linked aspect of my braking system. The legal and safety risks for which you accept if you choose to do it to your own machine. I'm very happy with the end result, YMMV. The end result is all 6 front caliper pistons are controlled solely by the front brake lever, and the rear 3 caliper pistons are controlled solely by the rear brake pedal. READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.
To do it right, you must replace the front master cylinder. If you don't, the lever will travel too far back. I bought a 5/8" Nissin master cylinder new for around $150. It works great. With the 5/8" master cylinder, front brake bite, progression, and feedback are excellent. The lever does not travel too far back and the brakes are not grabby. You will also need to purchase 3x double banjo bolts of you use the same method I did. There are alternatives, two of which I describe. You will also need 2 or 3 caps for SMC fittings.
Preparation
All the hardware and hydraulics connecting front to back is removed, with three exceptions. First, the SMC is locked up with JB weld and retained. Second, there's some hard plumbing on the right side that was a pain to get at. I cut those lines as far back as made sense and left the rest attached. The hard lines on the swingarm were retained as a scaffold to which the new rear brake lines were zip tied. However, the link-related hydraulic valves are gone as are all the hardware and hoses related to the linked system.
To remove the old stuff, I had the plastic removed. At a minimum, you have to remove the front plastic and the right side.
With the plastic off, loosen the front and rear reservoir caps so the brake fluid will drain freely when we start snipping things.
Front plumbing removal
From there, I literally took a pair of long handled diagonal cutters and started cutting hoses and letting everything drain into pans and bottles. You'll remove the crossover metal lines on the front fender and all the hoses and metal lines traversing the head tube. The diagonal cutters also make short work of the hard plumbing. Leave enough hard plumbing on the right side so that it can be affixed to something. It's time consuming and not worth it to remove the hard plumbing aft of the right coil.
Rear plumbing removal
Cut the two rubber lines toward the front, right side of the swingarm. Catch brake fluid with wads of paper towels.
Calipers
Clean and inspect. It's a great time to rebuild them. Remove the fittings from the calipers. Clean everything and reinstall the brake bleeders with sealant made for that purpose.
SMC
Remove the caliper from the SMC and remove the SMC from the left fork leg. Disassemble the SMC and remove all fittings from it. Clean it thoroughly. I mixed JB weld directly in the SMC. Then, i pushed the spring and stopper back in and reinstalled the cap with the circlip. JB Weld will have leaked out. Wipe down the SMC and cap all the orifices.
New hoses
I measured new hose length and fitting angle using lengths of 10 gauge building wire. It holds its shape and orientation, so you can get length and angle of the fittings. I wrote the details on the lengths of wire.
I took the wires to a hydraulic shop and had the lines made right there while I waited. It was a little under $200.
Installation
For the rear, you already have a double banjo bolt. Run one line to each hydraulic input on the rear cylinder. The rear master cylinder then controls all 3 rear cylinders.
The front is a little more complicated because it depends on how you want to put the inner and outer caliper chambers onto the same hydraulic circuit.
There are 3 ways I had considered communicating the chambers on the front calipers. One way is to use a small rotary tool or a drill to perforate the center chamber.
Another way is to run 2 lines to each front caliper as was done in the rear.
Another way is to use a double banjo bolt at the caliper and run a jumper line to the other hydraulic input. That's what I did. So, there is a double banjo bolt in the master cylinder, and two lines head down from there to each front caliper. At each front caliper, there is a double banjo bolt and a jumper to hydraulically communicate the two chambers. See picture. I will later measure and create more compact hard jumper lines or I will run a splitter on each line up by the headlights and then run two lines to each caliper. I think it would be cleaner looking, but the jumpers work fine.
The brakes function properly like traditional, un-linked brakes. The front master cylinder operates all 6 front pistons and have no affect on the rear caliper. The rear MC operates all three rear pistons and has no impact on either front caliper.
The brake lines on my bike are both routed to the left side of the head tube. I attached an air hose retaining bracket toward the right side in space newly opened by removing the linking plumbing. I cannot emphasize enough that if you choose to do this, you really want to spend time to make sure your brake line routing will not snag anything or get pulled tight. Whatever wiring mods or farkle stuff you might have parked behind the headlights could be a problem. Move your handlebars left and right all the way to lock.
Bleeding
The first bleed of the front brakes takes some patience. It's easiest with the calipers off so you can make sure the bleeding nipples are the highest points. The rear is easy. Subsequent bleeds on the front are also easy.
What ever happened to that Kat who was repowering the ST with electric? Same pioneering spirit.! 
