If not now, then..... when?

Joined
Apr 9, 2012
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Location
Lafayette, LA
Bike
2014 Yamaha FJR
If not now, then ….. when?

European Alpine Moto Tour, June 2026

I must admit that before the movie, I never had a “Bucket List”, but that was a pivotal time in my life. I was about 45 years old, and searching for something. I didn’t know it at the time, but a series of timely decisions and experiences led me to understand that what I was looking for was adventure. And I found it by re-connecting with motorcycles. I gravitated to motorcycle touring like a drug addict. The more I did it, the more I wanted to do it, and each time, the lure of adventure on the open road got stronger.

So I formulated my own motorcycle touring Bucket List, but with a twist. My list is not on paper. It’s in my mind. And my list is never complete. It only includes 3 or 4 trips at a time. I do it this way intentionally. I want to be able to focus intently on ONLY the next few trips. The others will eventually find their way to the list. Or they won’t – this exercise is about more than travel. I’m trying to force myself to live in the NOW. Don’t get caught up in a future that no one knows much about. And don’t dwell too much on the past, which cannot be changed no matter what. Focus intently on the present – with some excitement about the more immediate future. Admittedly, it’s a work in progress.

I’ve been to Europe a few times and each of those vacations was wonderful. Those trips focused on the popular large cities like Paris, Barcelona, Rome, Amsterdam, etc. My wife enjoys culture. She craves learning about the history, language, the people, etc. I like those things too, but when I travel, what I really want to see is the land. I want to see the back roads and what the farmers grow. I want to follow the watershed and observe the predominant forests and rocks. I want to study the rural part of Europe.

In that light, one the items that has remained high on my mental Bucket List is a tour of the Alpine Mountains of Europe. Arranging the logistics of that has always been a challenge. I’ve known that my wife would likely not enjoy this type of trip – too much running around for her. So I knew that I’d likely take this trip without her. At one point some time ago, I polled my close local motorcycle riding friends to gage interest, with no success. I get it – they have their own Bucket List and time/money is precious.

With moto touring, there are other considerations. I’m experienced enough to know that I want to know who I’m riding with. I’m not interested in riding with people I don’t trust. Within any vacation, there are always lots of choices, and it helps if you are with people who have similar interests, riding expectations, etc. Lots of things to consider.

For years, I’ve followed my friend Greg (Scooter), and his moto travels. Greg has been moto touring Europe for years, and seemingly, every year, his travels get more and more exciting to me. He shares fantastic and wonderful pictures of his trips, and I salivate as I read about those epic adventures. Admittedly, I’ve known Greg for a long time, but we haven’t had much chance to ride together, let alone tour together. I contemplated a thought: if Greg was planning a 2026 Europe trip, would he consider letting me tag along? Well, until you actually ask, the answer is always going to be “no”. So I took a deep breath and sent a text. Almost immediately, the reply was very encouraging. We spent 30 minutes on the phone and Greg shared with me that indeed, he was returning to the Alps this year, and that 3 other people were on board to join him. First, Greg’s longtime friend Gary (Mudslide Mudder) was coming along for his 3rd trip to the Alps. And also, Bryan (Auburn) and his wife Marissa were committed to the trip as well. These two are legendary long-distance riders, including their strong finishing of the 2025 Iron Butt Rally.

I remember my fingers tingling with excitement and nervousness as Greg and I talked. I must admit that at times, even though I was hearing him, I wasn’t really listening. In my mind, the wheels were spinning. I was thinking about adventure – riding Europe and putting a big “X” on that important Bucket List item.

True to his kind and inclusive nature, Greg essentially invited me to go on that first phone call. It took everything in my will not to say “yes”. Three things were holding me back. First, I needed to formulate a simple budget for the trip, just to make sure I wasn’t putting us into any kind of bind. Second, I needed to discuss this with my wife. Greg was planning a month-long excursion. In almost 40 years of marriage, this would be the longest we are apart.

And lastly, I wanted and requested a Zoom call with the others. I wanted to manage and express expectations. I could envision a scenario whereby we get halfway around the world, and we want different things. That would really put a damper on the trip. I was pleased that the others humored me with a call. And it was a great call, indeed. We all have similar expectations with respect to things like daily ride distances, accommodations and food, things we would like to see, etc. I shared that on this trip I hoped to have opportunities to do a little day hiking. See some waterfalls, etc. The others assured me that there would be plenty chances for that.

And then the discussion turned toward planning. Greg made it clear that for the entirety of the month, we were not going to make any reservations for lodging. The priority was to head in a general direction, but not be pressed to be anywhere. Take weather into consideration, and then just ….. go. In the midafternoon every day, we would look at what is available nearby and stay there. Our group would consist of 3 men, and a married couple – a lodging challenge to be sure. But Greg assured us that we were visiting at an off-peak time, and that places would be available.

I remember getting SO excited about the thought of this. What an incredible concept! No plans – just … ride. Don’t worry about anything – focus solely on exactly where you are and what you see right now. And this says nothing about the opportunity. We would be a small group of mature and experienced riders. We would be led by someone with extensive experience of the entire region. I threw together a rudimentary budget. It’s expensive, but I got the money. All the while, my wife is hearing about this, and while she wasn’t thrilled about the idea of being separated for a month, she was encouraging me. She knew I would enjoy this, and the opportunity was incredible.

I hemmed and hawed for a week or so. And then one day, I read about a fellow motorcyclist that died from chronic illness. I knew him fairly well, and he wasn’t much older than I am. On the motorcycle forum, we shared condolences and discussed his life. Of course I was saddened by Mike’s passing, but honestly, more than anything else, I felt a sense of urgency. I sat there blessed in my good health and my good fortune. But I also understood my own mortality and I had no illusions about it. Like all of us, my days are numbered and no one knows how long we have left. My thoughts immediately wandered to my European opportunity, and then it was crystal clear:

If not now, then….when?

I emailed the others with my official “I’m in” decision, and over the next 4-ish months, we all prepared for the trip. Motorcycle rental arrangements, airline tickets, insurances, licenses and paperwork, new motorcycle gear, etc. It all came together piece by piece.

This ride report will be an exercise in futility. I will try to the very best of my ability to describe in words and pictures how the trip went. But I must warn you – I will likely fail you miserably. No camera can capture the depth of field required to picture what I’m about to show you. And I’m quite certain that I don’t have the words to describe the beauty and fun we all had during our ride. But I will try, none the less.

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This report will come 1 or 2 days at a time. There will be some gaps between installments, and I thank you in advance for your patience. I want to write this right, pardon the pun. And any writer will tell you, it comes when it comes.

I hope you enjoy the pictures.
 
Day 1: Lafayette, LA to Heidleberg, Germany



Packing for this trip was different. My large suitcase was for anything to do with the motorcycle, and my smaller carry on bag was for clothing and personal effects.

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I love our little local airport. There are only 5 gates and 3 airlines, but the flight choices are Houston, Dallas, and Atlanta. From there, you can get anywhere in the world. From the moment I walked in the terminal, I was sitting at the gate in 23 minutes. I really like our airport.



The flight to Frankfurt was perfect. I slept a little on the plane, and we arrived on time about 9:00 am. At Greg’s suggestion, we made arrangements with Knopft Tours for our motorcycle rentals. They are a full service and first class organization. I did shop a competitor in Frankfurt for a moto to rent, but they were a full 40 percent more expensive, and offered no additional services that proved to be invaluable. Chris Knopft picked me up at the airport, and the 1-hour shuttle to Heidelberg was very informative. Chris was eager to share some of his business philosophies and nuances of riding in Europe and I was soaking it up with excitement.



We arrived at Knopft Tours Central a little before noon.



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Another perk for Knopft Tours is that they have a hostel within their facility. I arranged for a room for 2 nights before our scheduled departure, and 1 night upon our return. I wanted 2 full days to get over the jet lag, get ready for the ride, and anticipate for any flight delays. I'm retired 4 years now, and this is what retired farts do - they get there early so they don't have to rush. I spend 35 years rushing - this is better. I was the first of our group to arrive, and the vibe immediately was wonderful and relaxed. Knopft thinks of everything, and with 35 years of experience, they understand motorcyclists.



For the rest of the day, I just relaxed and tried to control my excitement, to no avail. Early in the evening, I walked a few blocks to a local café to get a sandwich.



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And then I turned in early for the night.
 
Got to follow this one...
I've been to Europe several times (Army brat, and again when I was in the Navy), but not in this century, and never on a motorbike.
 
I grew up in southern Bavaria as a pre teen and then as teen. Military family station in Germany. Then as a young man in the military my self I had two tours in Germany. First was a four year tour as a single soldier when I met my wife in Salzburg Austria. Second tour was a three year tour with wife and two small children. Needless to say there was no motorcycling in my life at that time. Jumping forward to 1982 I bought my first bike here in Colorado at the age of 32. Did my last military assignment in Hawaii in 1986/88, the military shipped my family and bike over. Riding Hawaii was an interesting dichotomy. (Better left for another day). Retired from the military and returned to the mainland here in Colorado. Trying to learn how to become a civilian. Riding in Colorado is great and I did many long distance trip on my varies motorcycles, but in the back of my mind I yearned to ride the European Alps and ride the many roads that I knew where grew up at, and was station at in Germany. I had traversed these roads many times in four wheels but dreamed of riding them on two wheels. It was not until 2017 that I finally took a Moto tour with a small tour company called Blue Rim Tours. I was already retired retired and had a few extra dollars to spend on this tour. I was in seventh heaven as we pulled out from the BMW dealer in Munich with our rental bikes. Tears came to my eyes as I realized a long time dream. We did five countries over 12 days with 9 riding days and one optional riding day. (everybody rode that day anyway) After that tour I had learned the logistics of getting to, renting a bike, and the riding protocols in Europe. I was hooked, had to get back for another ride, but this time on my own. Yes I know enough of the German language so no problem there. I could not go in year 2018 because we, the family of eight, had book a Danube River cruise and that is where our funds went to. So in 2019 my Solo Euro Moto Trip was on. I had planned to arrive in Frankfurt and spend about 5 days of the three week trip with a rental car and visit the two places I was stationed at in my military days, then drive to Munich, turn in the car and pickup the rental bike and ride the Bavarian and Austrian Alps. Also visit the places I grew up at, and where I met my wife. Every thing was going as planned until about the end of the second week. I came down with a respiratory infection and could not stop coughing my guts out. Canceled the last week, turn the bike in, changed my flight reservations and returned home to Denver. Because of this I planned to return the following year 2020 and finish my routes that I had so carefully planned out. Well we all know what happened in 2020 with the Covid outbreak. Needles to say my return did not happen. OK we will try for 2021. Well life moves in mysterious ways and my wife came down with very rare Neurological terminal disease called PSP. I will spare you all of the details of that, but I am now here fulltime caregiver.

The point and morel of this long winded story is to DO IT NOW. If Not Now then When? One never knows what the future will bring so as we get older it is time to take care of that bucket list. Tell your loved ones you love them and GO RIDE.

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Day 2: Heidelberg, Germany


I slept pretty good in the “KTM Room” – all of the hostel rooms are named and decorated after a motorcycle brand. The north breeze blowing through my open window was comfy. However, the blanket came up just a little short, LOL.

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Breakfast was included in my stay, and I enjoyed sitting on the patio in the cool morning breeze.

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I’m on Europe time now, and I’m ready for the day. I met a couple of the other guests, and it was fun to discuss our experiences and our planned adventures.

Today, my first priority is to get the bike ready for the trip. Knofpt has a full-service bike shop.

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This was a HUGE part in my decision for the rental. Basically, they showed me where the shop was and said “have at it”. I had full use of their tools and equipment to outfit the bike to my specific needs.

The bike I chose to rent was a 2017 Africa Twin, with only about 5,000 miles on it.

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I’ll offer more impressions on this bike later in the report. For now, I’ll justify my selection. I’ve ridden the AT before as one of my closest riding buddies at home has this bike. His is the Adventure version with the 19” front wheel. The bike available for my trip was the “base” model with a 21” wheel. Not ideal, but I figured it would be OK. Also as you can see, this bike has HUGE Givi bags on it and a nice medium sized wind screen. I was looking forward to the longer travel suspension and the neutral riding position for this
30-day adventure. And thus – the Africa Twin came to be.

I brought my Garmin XT GPS and mounting hardware with me. That got installed very easily. I also brought my Warm-n-Safe heated jacket liner, but chose not to install the power pigtail at this time. As it turned out, I never needed the heated gear.

Knopft also offers a TON of “extras” that are hard to believe. Within the shop, there was a table full of nothing but phone mounts, GPS mounts, Ramball accessories, etc. All free for the using as we wanted. Another area of shelves sported some 25 tank bags of various configurations and sizes. Again – just take whatever you want. They really allowed us to customize our rental bike to fit our individual needs. Stefan and Chris know how much of a difference these small changes can make for a rider. That was so neat. I passed on the tank bag, but did setup a phone mount and never used it. I don’t like having my phone mounted on the bike – if I fall, that might take out an important single point of failure. And I’m not crazy about the vibration on the phone, phone camera, etc.

In the afternoon, the others started arriving and it was really fun to meet everyone and get to know them. From the beginning, there was “chemistry” in the camaraderie sense of the term. We’ve all done a lot of moto-touring. We have some inkling of what is fixing to happen. We are getting into “vacation mode”. Like me, Greg has a sarcastic, occasionally self-deprecating sense of humor. Marissa is lovely, engaging, and conversational. Bryan’s dry humor is witty. Gary has this “old fart, get off my lawn” demeaner, and it was a hoot to observe him and Greg bantering at each other. It was a fun and really exciting time.

We all continued to ready the bikes for the trip. I went through the chassis on my bike, making sure all fasteners were tight, fluids full, etc. I had a brand-new front tire, and the rear had well over 75% of tread left. Knopft assured me I’d be fine for the trip, and I was.

After the bike was setup, I turned my attention toward packing for the trip. Aw crap! I cannot believe what I am seeing.

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It takes a special kind of dumbass to pack two RIGHT side boots and ZERO lefts. But that’s what I did. I have 2 pairs of the Alpinestars Gortex riding boots, and somehow, in my complete stupidity, I mixed them up and grabbed 2 rights. ***** – this is going to get interesting. I immediately had visions of $200 Uber rides to and from Frankfurt, and $500.00 in new boots, if I can even find them on such short notice. Oye…..

I walked downstairs to tell Stefan Knopft what happened. He laughed at me and stated that in all his experience, he’s never seen that before. Leave it to Pants. Then he led me into a large room that was FULL of motorcycle gear of all kinds. He explained that this is the gear that others have left behind over the decades. I was free to look around and see what I could find. No charge – just take whatever you want and bring it back when you are done.

How cool is that? It didn’t take long for me to find a perfectly serviceable pair of Forma Gortex riding boots. They are a size 46, just a smidge smaller than my Alpinestars 47. As luck would have it, my right foot is about a ½ size larger than my left. The left Forma boot fit really good. So I decided to go with my own size 47 right boot, and the loaner Forma left boot. It worked beautifully. Crisis averted.

Gary was the last to arrive late afternoon after a flight delay and we all pitched in to get him caught up. Then we walked to an Italian restaurant in the neighborhood for a fine meal.

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The excitement among us was undeniable. Over dinner and on the walk back to Knopft, we could hardly get a word in edgewise. Everyone was talking at the same time about everything and nothing. We were really happy and we knew early on that we were part of something really big.

I hoped for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow is go time.
 
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