Indicator Question...very vexing!!!

Erdoc48

Erdoc48

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Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
1,410
Age
60
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC/ Sometimes Colorado
Bike
94/00/04 STs, FSC600
Hi Everyone,
Looking for some insight on an ongoing issue with the indicators on my 2000. In the past 2 years or so, when the indicators are activated, one of 2 things occur (and it’s on both sides):
-I have to hold the switch in position to keep the indicator light on until a few uses of the switch, then it works as normal
-I activate it, no light, but I hear the relay click rapidly and a few seconds later the indicators blink in normal fashion

So, the switch seems to work to send signal to the relay which clicks rapidly, then eventually the lights work. This is not that common in the warmer weather, usually when it’s colder out as it is now.

I warmed the switch with a hair dryer to see if it was a problem with contact at the switch but that didn‘t help.

What I’ve done so far:
-replaced relay (the one from Partzilla, so OEM equivalent)- seemed to help briefly but then issue returned
-opened up the indicator switch, cleaned out all of the old grease, cleaned the copper contacts with CRC QD contact cleaner spray reassembled with apparent brief improvement then the issue comes back
-opened up the bike (false tank and air cleaner to get to the 4 multi pin plugs) and opened them all, cleaning them with the QD spray- still happens.
-took all the bulbs out and sprayed the bulb housing (electrical contacts)- still happens

That is the whole circuit I would imagine, no? It seems like there’s oxidation somewhere in the circuit when warm, the electrical bridge is OK, but when cool, no connection until ’pre-activate‘ the indicators in the garage, then on the ride all is well (so once warm or the electrical signal is good, it continues to work normally)- never had this issue on the 94.

So what am I missing? Oxidation/resistance at the fuse (haven’t tried that one yet)?

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
I’m with Phil. I’ve had a few of these and others in and taking them apart to repair them was the only solution.
 
We now have 5 votes for the switch. Get a plastic safe electrical contact cleaner and spray it in the switch. I've never had the problem, but other guys here have said you can spray it inside without taking the whole switch apart (I'd guess by cracking the clamshell and opening it up a hair. As a retired electrician, I do not like adding grease (lubricant of any sort) to the contacts. If you do that and its an insulator (dielectric grease) you are depending on the mechanical action to wipe the contacts clean to pass electricity. I've never seen grease on the contacts of small switches (big knife switches, yes, but there is high pressure there to do that wiping I mentioned). Lubing motion/pivot points is another matter. Some folks have suggested spraying various lubes into the switch after cleaning, but I do not think this is a good idea. If someone has done that successfully, by all means ask what lube they used and try it. I cannot argue with success and I am still learning.
 
How are the running lights/dashboard lights/headlights/brake lights/horn, while you have the problem? Anything else failing?
 
This is exactly what the blackbird that I got was doing.
The advice above is correct and more thorough, however.
Spray plenty WD40 in at the toggle slot so to foams up everything and work the switch. I’ve never had a problem with this method.
Maybe do this now and ride, you could take it apart later at your convenience to do a thorough cleaning.
 
Mine does the same if she's been sitting for a while (over a month). Left turn always works, but right turn would not come on. Had to hold on right side for around 3 seconds before indicators worked. After the first "jiggle around" both sides worked without issue. stripped switch, cleaned everything, re-assembled and everything worked as it should.
Left her sitting again for around a month, and the same. Now I just squirt some WD40 into each side of the slide, and both sides work.
I'll get round to changing the switch someday ... ...
If squirting in WD, hold a cloth under the switch or you get a really nice shiny patch on the grey fairing panel.
 
SMSW said:
...Get a plastic safe electrical contact cleaner and spray it in the switch...
Click to expand...
Good suggestion, I agree with it, but fully protect everything underneath and behind the switch with an old towel or similar before you do this. Some electrical contact cleaners can damage the finish on plastic or painted parts.

You might also want to take the switch assembly apart once again and check to see if there is any evidence of excessive wear or breakage within the assembly. It sounds to me like the root cause of the problem is that the switch is not making solid, effective contact. You've already cleaned it once - so next time you get inside it to look at it, see if you can find any mechanical reason (breakage, excessive wear, debris) that is causing the poor or intermittent connection.

Michael
 
Mines does the same thing only on the right side and only when it is cold. Someone suggest maybe the bulb has a intermittent short in the filiment. And when its cold the filiment contracts and no contact. When warm or hot outside the filiment wire expands and more contact means a surer connection? This spring I'm going to replace my right side bulb since it is still an original 20 year bulb with a new one and see if it fixes this.
 
I went ahead and ordered the switch from Partzilla ($124 with shipping and tax)- parts are getting less available with time, so the original plan was to remove it, send to my brother in Colorado (he’s an electrical/ electronics genius) have him re-solder the connections in case of a bad solder joint and send it back to me- the downside of this is the bike is in pieces in the garage for a longer time. I’ll still send it to him and if he can repair it, keep it as a spare in case it ever fails on the 94.

I tried it again this AM...same issue as it was cold in the garage this morning- once that electrical bridge is made, then it works again- I suspect this will get worse to the point it can’t bridge the current and then won’t function at all.
 
This will help keep it straight! I give anything that gets a bit sticky with it - it sticks no more :)
It also doesn't tend to get sticky after time like many others may!
CRC Lube

And if you ever need a GREAT electrical cleaner
CRC Electrical cleaner

The lube is the best lube I've used for near everything. My daughter wondered what happened to our squeaky door - hasn't squeaked in years now with one use!
 
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