That is the stock Police riser setup.
Left handlebar control adjustment
- Thread starter alanm123
- Start date
OP
OP
MANY THANKS!
No winch is needed - just a1500 lb Gorilla, but most of those are employed in Hollywood and making enough money that wrenching is not appealing to them.
I would not clamp brake lines. The warnings not to hang calipers from and bend the hoses at sharp angles are strident enough to tell me that while they are not fragile, you don't want to weaken a life safety part. Your linked video makes no sense. If he is pumping fluid out of the reservoir, the bleed nipple has to be open, so why not do it the usual way? I've never had problems bleeding brakes, though getting all the bubbles out of newly replaced brake lines has been frustrating (until I started using the vacuum setup).
The oft suggested tool is a Motion-pro bleeder - a one way valve that goes on the bleed nipple. Its cheap and easy to use. I use a vaccum system and just suck new fluid through - at least 3 full reservoirs through each caliper/nipple. Some guys here do it every year and have bragged they had no brake problems ever (other than wear).
The real problem with not bleeding brake/clutch fluid is the gunk that builds up in the system. Read the 1100 Articles on clutch slave cyl replacement and look at the pictures. The SMC is very sensitive to deteriorated brake fluid; tiny passages get clogged and the fix is a new SMC. Yes, a few guys have tried to rebuild an SMC, most fail.
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- Oct 26, 2020
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- 2016 ST1300P
- 2024 Miles
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One way bleeder. Photo for illustration purposes only.
That guy is a complete idiot for clamping ANY brake line. He obviously does not care about hurting a customers brake line!@SMSW:
Agreed. It's not the lighting -- the fluid is definitely discolored. I've been going over the document you mention and several others, including a few detailed explanations by jfheath, who has done quite a bit to determine the best approach to bleeding brakes/clutch.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-maintenance-getting-all-the-air-out-of-the-brake-system.156754/
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-maintenance-brakes-avoiding-the-pitfalls.135125/
But the main thing is to just do it.
I was planning to submerge the entire bike in a vat of dot4 with all the bleed valves open and just swish it around a bit, but the required winch system turned out to be too complicated. So I think I'm going with the above recommendations instead.
By the way, one brake-bleed tip I saw recently was to gently clamp the brake line just below the reservoir(s) creating a one-way valve. Then you can squeeze and release the brake lever many times in succession without dealing with the bleed valve until it's time to refill the reservoir. Looked like it would make it easier to get a good quick flow of fluid for dislodging bubbles. I don't know about the rest of the video, but that one idea seemed useful -- although I would have put more protection around the pliers jaws, myself.
He is sure not doing his shop a favor by making a YouTube video in his uniform.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I second that, he doesn't know what he is talking about.
Whenever fluid escapes from the pressure side of the brake system, which it does when the bleed valve is open, the vast majority of that fluid is replaced by the fluid that flows around the collapsed seal on the master cylinder piston as the piston retracts. The piston seal is designed to do this to allow brake fluid to flow around it to make sure that the pressure side of the system always remains full of brake fluid. Such an inconsequential amount of fluid is retracted in the line when the handle is released it is probably immeasurable.
I have a question,
The part number of the PA clutch master cylinder sub assy is 22890-MCS-A3
The part number for the civillian bike is 22890-MCS-305
The part numbers contained inside box number 6 in this diagram are the same for PA and civillian models. So what's the difference besides $12.78 in price?
The part number of the PA clutch master cylinder sub assy is 22890-MCS-A3
The part number for the civillian bike is 22890-MCS-305
The part numbers contained inside box number 6 in this diagram are the same for PA and civillian models. So what's the difference besides $12.78 in price?
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OP
OP
2017 ST1300PA clutch master cylinder page
2012 ST1300A clutch master cylinder page
I've been switching back and forth and eventually noticed that the police bike includes item 4 (bush) within the item 6 collection, while the 2012 civilian bike has it separate.
Item 4 price:$12.44 $9.23.
Aside from that, the only difference seems to be that the civilian version includes a plastic zip tie (item 29).
2012 ST1300A clutch master cylinder page
I've been switching back and forth and eventually noticed that the police bike includes item 4 (bush) within the item 6 collection, while the 2012 civilian bike has it separate.
Item 4 price:
Aside from that, the only difference seems to be that the civilian version includes a plastic zip tie (item 29).
You get a gold star for that. I missed it.
OP
OP
The consensus appears to be to use a one-way bleed valve. (Not to be found at a Harbor Freight or Home Depot near me.)
Funny how this thread morphed from handlebar switch placement into a clutch-bleed discussion.
Funny how this thread morphed from handlebar switch placement into a clutch-bleed discussion.
You posted a picture of your dirty clutch fluid, so you're fair game. I got my Motion Pro bleeder from ebay. Motion Pro Hydraulic Brake Bleeder Tool NEW 08-0143 | eBay
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OP
OP
OP
OP
The fluid was pretty dark. Darker than the viewport suggested. And this was after mixing with quite a bit of clean stuff:
Much beddah:
Thanks, all, for pointing that out. By the way, I couldn’t wait for the one-way valve so I made one from forceps (clamped loosely—one click) squeezing the bleeder tube. This REQUIRES a tiny hose clamp holding the tube to the bleed valve. Fluid passed the forceps easily with no backflow.
Much beddah:
Thanks, all, for pointing that out. By the way, I couldn’t wait for the one-way valve so I made one from forceps (clamped loosely—one click) squeezing the bleeder tube. This REQUIRES a tiny hose clamp holding the tube to the bleed valve. Fluid passed the forceps easily with no backflow.
Kevcules
Site Supporter
The one way valve is nice, but not necessary as you have learned. You could also just route the tubing vertically with no clamping intervention and as long as it stays full of fluid and vertical, no air will enter. Close the bleeder screw, empty the line, then fill it up again. 
OP
OP
Yes, it occurred to me that the clamp wasn't really needed at all, given the loop. I still needed the tiny hose clamp on the bleed valve though. My 1/4" hose was stiff and extra curly from the packaging so it tended to pull itself off. A little spring clip would have been easier to use than the hose clamp, but it would need to be a strong spring.
Revzilla has the police switch for $130-ish, but sportscitycyclery.com in Greatfalls, Montana has a website that shows parts diagrams and can order parts off that website, too. I had a ‘77 Honda CB750 super sport at the time I lived in Greatfalls and I was able to use their website for parts searching. I want one. Thanks for the help. 0.875 inches on the handlebar diameter. I am planning on getting Oxford heated grips for my ‘07 ST (non-abs) and wanted to make sure they are, in fact, 0.875”. I am not near my bike and won’t be for 4 months, but wanted to purchase the Oxford grips before I got back to my bike.
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AKA 22mm.