Life expectancy of ST1100 water pump

D_W_L

aka, DL-ST95
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Victoria, BC
Bike
ST1100
There has been strong recommendations from many to include replacing the water pump as part of the timing belt replacement process. My question to those who did not replace the water pump, how far where they able to ride before the water pump did in fact start to act up. Thanks.

Dave
 
I've struggled with this question. Those pulleys aren't cheap.
My '99 is due for a timing belt, which I've had on the shelf at the ready for a number of years.
Not sure what I'll be doing.

I did do the timing belt only (carefully, with all the help here) on my '91. The original water pump started spitting out the green stuff very shortly thereafter. The pulleys had felt fine.
With it being a '91, it's problematic as the water pump is unavailable.
 
My old 1990 still has its original water pump at over 200k kms. I changed my water pump on a 97 with 80k miles and the old one was as good as new.
I believe the pump is no longer available, though it can be rebuilt, you will need to source the bearing. At one time a kit was available from “happybikes” out of Britain
 
I'm probably going to buy a kit and stash it.


 
Various experiences from me -

1 ST1100 - 180,000+ miles with original water pump
1 ST1100 - 130,000+ miles the water pump cratered and took engine with it
1 ST1100 - 140,000+ miles with original water pump
1 ST1100 - 70,000+ miles with original water pump

There is a gentleman that does rebuild ST1100 water pumps and warrants them.
You can still get the pulley set new from Honda but you cannot get the water pump.
It's sort of a crapshoot - check for looseness/water stains on the pump and play in the pulleys when you get in there and then make your decision.
FWIW, the one ST1100 that cratered was supposedly checked by a reputable Honda shop at 100,000 miles when they changed the belt and did other service.
Given the results I encountered, I highly doubt that they did. ;)
 
Look at the condition of the fins on the water pump. If the fins have been eaten up or pitted, you will more than likely have issues with not only the pump but the idler bearings too.
IMO if you don’t make it a practice to flush your cooling system on a regular basis, or you use bargain coolant, you will also have issues down the line.
 
Look at the condition of the fins on the water pump. If the fins have been eaten up or pitted, you will more than likely have issues with not only the pump but the idler bearings too.
IMO if you don’t make it a practice to flush your cooling system on a regular basis, or you use bargain coolant, you will also have issues down the line.
what's wrong with bargain coolant and give the names of brands you consider bargain coolant.
 
Look at the condition of the fins on the water pump. If the fins have been eaten up or pitted, you will more than likely have issues with not only the pump but the idler bearings too.
IMO if you don’t make it a practice to flush your cooling system on a regular basis, or you use bargain coolant, you will also have issues down the line.
Adding tap water or use of coolant containing silicates is plain abuse and will soon raise havoc on various levels...
whilst keeping the system clean, sterile, pressurized (leak free) and replacing the coolant every two years will extend the lifetime massively... (see also brake/clutch/ABS hydraulics...)
As with all machinery: look after them, treat them well, acknowledge what's written in the w/shop manuals and they serve you flawless for a long time...
 
Just wondering.....the later model water pump assembly is different, the water cooler at the base of the oil filter is gone and the water hoses are not needed. Has anyone actually installed one on the older ST?
 
Just wondering.....the later model water pump assembly is different, the water cooler at the base of the oil filter is gone and the water hoses are not needed. Has anyone actually installed one on the older ST?
Seems like somebody did and added a needed pipe nipple IIRC.
 
Seems like somebody did and added a needed pipe nipple IIRC.
Indeed he did:

 
Unfortunately, any part can become faulty over time and bearings can fail (and parts tolerances can vary even if they’re expected to be the same at the factory), but on the 1100, I don’t suspect it’s a high incidence event. For Dave, how many miles on your ST? I changed my timing belts way early based on time only (33 and 35K miles when I did them on the 2000 and 94 respectively in late 2017). The pulleys were fine. As it’s less likely I would encounter an issue in my riding lifetime, I honestly don’t worry about it at all (meaning I doubt I’ll see > 100K miles per bike in my lifetime assuming I’m riding another 20 years or so).

Many may disagree, but I’m not sure I would start invading my existing water pump trying to fit a new bearing if the existing one seems intact/ no leaking at the pump. Sometimes that creates problems in an attempt to prevent one.
 
89 K on mine and I have no plans to fix what ain't broken. Imho japanese parts are often superior to there American and European counterparts. I still have many many oem parts on my old Toyota car. Things like Thermostats, altenators, water pumps hoses, seals etc. Yep 258K miles and 19 years all these components just soldier on:)
 
Coolant, like oil, has an additive package that is designed to prevent corrosion inside the engine. After time and use, these anti corrosion chemicals are exhausted. If you neglect to change the fluid according to Honda's recommendations, you can expect damage.

I am ashamed to admit that I let the coolant in my 89 Honda Accord remain unchanged for some years. Yes, years, and I don't remember how many. When I finally took the car in to my trusted mechanic (now my friend) for a coolant change and flush, he gave me a tongue lashing - I should have known better. He described quite graphically what the stuff smelled like and what he saw. He thoroughly flushed the engine and changed the a freeze annually for 3 years. I cannot say that this 'healed' anything, but after the second change, he pronounced the coolant coming out of the engine as looking like the new stuff going in. There was no engine damage, but had I let it go longer.... who knows.
 
Thank you all for your comments. Being that it doesn't sound that failed pumps are common and being also that I have been flushing my coolant regularly, I think I will skip that piece of work and just change the timing belt. (And by the way Erdoc48, I have 132K km. (80K miles) on the clock.)

Dave
 
There has been strong recommendations from many to include replacing the water pump as part of the timing belt replacement process. My question to those who did not replace the water pump, how far where they able to ride before the water pump did in fact start to act up. Thanks.

Dave
I replaced all the pulleys as well as the timing belt at 46,000. The water had no play on the shaft, spun freely and no evidence of coolant stain. I do though recommend to replace your coolant at recommended intervals. Coolant is one of the most ignored fluids and doing this can definitely extend the life of a water pump because of the lubricants that in with coolant.
 
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