Lube Those Throttle Cables!

Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
628
Age
60
Location
Halifax, PA
Bike
2006 ST1300
It's a slow process as your throttle gets worse and worse. You don't notice it. Mine was at the point that it literally took a second to close from full throttle.

Now granted I had to remove the airbox etc. and remove the cables from the pulley but it was worth it.

I used a pressure luber with the original -70 spray that came with it 30 yrs ago.

Now the throttle snaps closed again like it should.

Still have the brake/clutch fluid, and coolant change to do then put her back together.
 
Two schools of thought on lubing those cables. Do it, and continue to do it forever, or, never do it and then lube won't be in there to attract the dirt that binds up the cable. I choose the second method and for 20 years my '95 ST never had a cable bind. They don't come with lube from the factory . . .
 
Pete,
Thanks for the reminder, my buddy's 2006 ST has 150,000 miles on it. His is really bad to the point that he doesn't want to ride it. Told him to bring it over to the sick bay and we will correct.:)
 
Two schools of thought on lubing those cables. Do it, and continue to do it forever, or, never do it and then lube won't be in there to attract the dirt that binds up the cable. I choose the second method and for 20 years my '95 ST never had a cable bind. They don't come with lube from the factory . . .

Well.....I never lubed mine (2006) and they got progressively worse. Now lubed they're great.
 
Sometimes the factory doesn't know best. Mine are getting stiff. Thanks for the idea.

TC

Actually it does. It's right in the HSM. page 3-6 under throttle operation. "Lubricate the throttle cables if throttle operation is not smooth."
 
So, here's a question for everyone that has lubed the cables. What lubricant are you using. I was thinking of something with graphite in it. So once the wet lubricant is gone, the dry graphite is still there.
 
I never lube the cables.. Never had a problem. The throttle is a push pull, 2 cables. Granted when lubed they are probably enhanced to be smother.
One thing I have found is if you don't allow some play between the cables when adjusting them they will bind, simulating a cable problem.
The return spring on the throttle shaft is plenty strong to move those cables, however if both push and pull cable are adjusted to tight, they will cancel the spring pull.
The cable liners are teflon inside of the steel flex conduit. I have never seen a groove warn in them. they pretty much wear uniformly creating more clearance for the cable.
Besides,, I have to do enough maintenance on this bike besides remove those cables,, what a PIA that would be. LOL
 
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So, here's a question for everyone that has lubed the cables. What lubricant are you using. I was thinking of something with graphite in it. So once the wet lubricant is gone, the dry graphite is still there.

You can buy graphite that does not have any carrier at all in it, such as that used to lube door locks. If using anything at all, that would probably be the best bet.

That also serves to show that oily lubes are NOT recommended in places where dirt will be attracted. You would never use oil in a door lock.
 
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You can buy graphite that does not have any carrier at all in it, such as that used to lube door locks. If using anything at all, that would probably be the best bet.

That also serves to show that oily lubes are NOT recommended in places where dirt will be attracted. You would never use oil in a door lock.

I agree with the no oil in locks, but I question how you would get graphite into the cable. Absent some tight fitting clamp and a way to blow an air/graphite mix through the cable this would be difficult. And if it leaked at this clamping point while you were blowing the powdered graphite into the cable - watch out! What a mess.

Reminds me of the time I decided to service my own small fire extinguisher. My wife had just finished cleaning the house, I was sitting at the foot of the stairs in the dining room, and I picked up the extinguisher. The pro's take these things, inspect them (visually) and upend them to loosen the dry chemical once a year. Then they replace the tag and charge you for the service (this is between recharges). "I can do that," I said. When I did, the pin fell out (a small plastic tab on the end had broken off and I did not notice this) and as the cylinder went upside down, its weight rested on the top handle in my hand. Of course the extinguisher discharged as it was supposed to. That powder is so fine it will float in the air. We found dry chemical upstairs in every room in the house. The dining room was a mess. I do not recommend this procedure unless you want a divorce....
 
I agree with the no oil in locks, but I question how you would get graphite into the cable. Absent some tight fitting clamp and a way to blow an air/graphite mix through the cable this would be difficult. And if it leaked at this clamping point while you were blowing the powdered graphite into the cable - watch out! What a mess.

Reminds me of the time I decided to service my own small fire extinguisher. My wife had just finished cleaning the house, I was sitting at the foot of the stairs in the dining room, and I picked up the extinguisher. The pro's take these things, inspect them (visually) and upend them to loosen the dry chemical once a year. Then they replace the tag and charge you for the service (this is between recharges). "I can do that," I said. When I did, the pin fell out (a small plastic tab on the end had broken off and I did not notice this) and as the cylinder went upside down, its weight rested on the top handle in my hand. Of course the extinguisher discharged as it was supposed to. That powder is so fine it will float in the air. We found dry chemical upstairs in every room in the house. The dining room was a mess. I do not recommend this procedure unless you want a divorce....

:doh1::crackup

Yes, blowing the graphite in could be difficult and probably best achieved by having the cable right off the bike, but who wants to go to that hassle? Best option is never put anything in there and, unless you ride on dusty gravel roads a lot, you may never need to.
 
Looks like I'm on a 5 year schedule lubing the throttle cables. Over this winter I noticed the pull getting REALLY sluggish. Now back to crisp opening action with snapping closed.
While the airbox was off I installed 1/4 in. mesh at the front of the air intake. Mice got in the air filter AGAIN. Another $20 air filter chewed on. :mad:

On a side note removing the seats works to keep the mice out of the tail section so the PCM wires don't get chewed up.
 
I'm not going to weigh in on either side of the "lubricate the throttle cables" debate, but I have found that leaving sufficient backlash (slop) in the throttle cable assembly is critical for smooth, rapid throttle action. I leave between 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch of backlash (measured at the inboard, flared end of the rubber handgrip) in the throttle cable system of both my bikes.

Michael
 
Looks like I'm on a 5 year schedule lubing the throttle cables.
This is interesting topic. I purchased my ST 1300 new in 2008. I have never lubed the cables and never needed to. They move freely and have no problem. So in 12 years time I have never lubed the cables and they work fine. ( I think I have been lucky)
You may have an underlying problem. The service manual states to turn handle bars to full lock and the throttle should snap close with no drag noticed.
You may have binding somewhere that is not easily visible.
:bigpop:
 
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:thumb:. Agreed, Tri-Flow is great lubricant for cables, locks (locksmith recommended), and just about anything needing lubricating.
My local Ace Hardware has it.

Motion-Pro cable lube also works well on cables.

I lube throttle and clutch (on my CB 900 Custom) cables at least every other year.
 
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