Missing a part on my Hondaline top box

Chad Pippin

Chad Pippin

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Joined
Jun 4, 2021
Messages
7
Age
52
Location
Colorado
I lost the pin out of my Hondaline top box on the most recent trip. I contacted Givi and they said it is a part that they cannot get because it’s proprietary Honda design. Any ideas?IMG_3748.jpegIMG_3747.jpeg
 
Hi Chad, That just looks like a pivot pin for the latch mechanism?

Were I in your shoes I wouldn't bother with the OEM Givi component.

Go to your local hardware store that's well stocked with fasteners... Here I'd go to our ACE, Tru-Value or Wilco stores. Homeless Despot might yield suitable pin, but I wouldn't count on it
based on my local Home Deps stores. Find a pin of a suitable diameter and length to fit the application. Like these. Whether you choose one that uses a cotter or E-clip is up to you. The link and illustrations are from McMaster-Carr's website.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

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If you lack a set of gauge pins, I mean really who doesn't have gauge pins :) , find a twist drill that fits best to determine diameter.

Get a pin long enough to fit a washer between the hinge and the cotter or E-clip and Bob's your uncle...
 
Last edited:
Willsmotorcycle said:
Nut and bolt?
Click to expand...
Good short term fix, but over time the threads will wollow out the holes as they abrade them with use. I was thinking of recommending either a shoulder bolt - less common than the pins I recommend - or a bolt with an unthreaded length to act as a bearing surface, but that may be had to find in that diameter. Plus, such bolts tend to be threaded the entire length until they get really long and then the unthreaded length is difficult to spec. And you'd want to cut off the unused portion.
 
STRider said:
Good short term fix, but over time the threads will wollow out the holes as they abrade them with use. I was thinking of recommending either a shoulder bolt - less common than the pins I recommend - or a bolt with an unthreaded length to act as a bearing surface, but that may be had to find in that diameter. Plus, such bolts tend to be threaded the entire length until they get really long and then the unthreaded length is difficult to spec. And you'd want to cut off the unused portion.
Click to expand...
Shoulder bolts are not easy to come by retail in my experience as you wrote. I usually need to order them online and the shipping costs five times as much as the shoulder bolt. Purpose made pins are not always easy to come by in retail stores in the diameter that one might need either.

For small diameters it is easy to make a shoulder bolt with a few simple tools most of us will have. What I do is I find/buy a bolt of whatever size and length that gives me an un-threaded shank of the correct diameter that is long enough to suit the needs of the repair. Between the commonly available SAE and metric sizes there is always a bolt in a diameter close enough for all situations where precise interference fit isn't critical. With the exception of fully threaded bolts of course, the longer the bolts get the longer the un-threaded shank they have. I then cut off the excess threaded section that I don't need to get the length that I want. At this pint I either tap the remaining end if I want to use a nut or I drill a hole in it to accept a cotter pin, R pin etc., as suits my needs. If it is absolutely neccessary for clearance reasons, it isn't really that hard to file a groove in the end of the shank to be able to use a C clip or an E clip if you have a small enough file. Voila- a shoulder bolt using what is commonly available at any hardware store for a few pennies and the consumption of some idle time.
 
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