Monday grump - ST1300 idle dropping and stuttering acceleration

Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Brighton, UK
Morning all.

I've come to the conclusion my ST1300 hates Monday mornings.

I commute from Brighton (UK) to London and back every day - roughly (53 miles each way), so the bike gets plenty of miles (A9 - 67,500m).

In the past couple of months there seems to be a bit of an issue and it feels like it's every Monday when I start the bike to head off to work.

The scenario goes like this:

Start the bike. Get gloves etc on, usually set off with 1 bar on the temp gauge.
Hit the single lanes out of Brighton towards the 70mph (A23-M23). The bike runs smoothly as it warms up to 3 temp bars.
Hit the fast bit for 30 miles before peeling off to work through the urban riding towards London. This usually involves filtering through stationary traffic queuing on the sliproad off the motorway. I'm in either 1st or second gear and the bike feels a little jerky...a gentle 'pop' from the exhaust.

Then the first red light of the commute and the bike idles fine for a moment and then it seems to want to drop off from 1000+100 rms to something below that. I blip the throttle to keep the revs up and again...dropping...stummbling...but not stalling.

The lights change, I open up the throttle and it hesitates a little and sets off a bit jerkily.

It's like this now for the remainder of the ride in. It's happening too frequently to be bad fuel.

Start the bike in the evening, absolutely fine!

Have a look at the clip on YouTube - https://youtu.be/kkz8Gdaxnqk
It Give you a bit of an idea of the inconsistent idle...

Now, I've done a bit of digging around on this one and here's what I've tried so far to remedy it myself:

1. Used some Wynns injector cleaner - this certainly improved the MPG and fuel reading when it's low, but the stuttering still happens (Mainly on mondays)
2. Tightened up a couple of sparks - the sparks are relatively new NGK Iridiums. I think they're 8's so I may try a new set of 7's)
3. New OEM air filter - fitted last week.
4. Remove airbox disconnect 5 Way and it was pretty clean.
5 New oil/filter/final drive oil every 4000 - (currently 2000m in)
6. Increased idle speed...

I'm now looking for help and suggestions to try.

Q: It's been a couple of years since my Battery change (21,000 per year) - would this have n impact?
Q: Should I change the hoses to the 5 way (they looked ok) and is it a faff to do it?
Q: If it was a fuel pump issue, would I notice it a high speed as well?
Q: If it was the coils, would that cause complete stalling?
Q: Should I start with new sparkplugs...

Other than that, and inventing Prozac for motorbikes, I'm at a loss as to what to try.

I'm getting no error codes flashing....just a grumpy bike when I hit the urban part of my commute on a Monday morning.

Your wisdom and suggestions, as ever, will be extremely welcome.

Thanks

Rob
 

Gug

Joined
Mar 6, 2005
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70
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Trenton, MI.
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18' Goldwing Tour
I am no mechanic but a friend of mine told me that the valves are bucket and shim (I did know that). But he also told me that you will know when they need an adjustment by the bike not being able to hold a normal Idle speed. He said they would run erratically.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
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4,777
Location
Northumberland UK
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VStrom 650
I'd be grumpy going into London on Monday morning too. You can't blame the Pan.
Sounds like fuel to me, have you checked the fuel filter, does the 13 have one?
I'm sure someone will come up trumps.
Upt'North.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
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Dahlonega, GA
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2018 NC750X
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7666
Q: Should I change the hoses to the 5 way (they looked ok) and is it a faff to do it?
You should at least run a pipe cleaner through the hoses and the five way "T" fitting. You would be surprised what you can find in there. While you are at that point, try injecting some Marvel Mystery oil or some other injector cleaner into the idle bypass orifices in each of the four throttle bodies. Don't have a picture handy... but you can recognize it as there are two small holes in the top of the assemblies... if you use a small syringe to emit a fine stream of juice, the proper orifice will suck the fluid into it while the bike is idling. I've seen it make a difference.
 

Igofar

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Arizona
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2023 Honda CT125A
If you've removed the 5 way tee, then plugged it back in to the hoses again, you may have some air leak issues. The ends of the hoses end up being egg shaped and will leak.
I suggest removing the hoses from the TB to the Tee, and the map sensor switch to the Tee and replacing them with fresh new hoses. I would also do a TB sync while your in there. You will find that this will really smooth things out.
Before you attempt to do the TB sync, lube your throttle cable and make sure it is working smoothly, and you don't have any binding issues, such as tight nylon ties pinching it, or routing problems.
.02
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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ST1300, 2010
So it doesn't occur or occur as much on Tuesday thru Friday. How about Saturday and Sunday? Does the bike 'rest' over the weekend? The Mostly On Monday symptom doesn't sound irrelevant.
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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I had a similar issue with my 2010 from the time I bought it until I finally replaced (with a used unit) the wax/coolant controlled (WAX ASSY. 16044-MCW-003). You will find it at the end of the throttle adjustment screw (cable), connected to two coolant lines. It's a bugger to replace since you have to pull off the throttlebody to get to it, but my 2010 ran fine once I replaced it.
 
OP
OP
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Brighton, UK
So. Bit of an update. ran the bike this morning (Tuesday am) - absolutely fine...no problemo. I'm convinced that not running the bike over the weekend causes something to not work quite right come Monday morning.

SuperSabre...is that the 'enrichner' I've heard other people describe? Did your bike have an intermittent idle problem....even though the engine was hot and had run 30 - 40 miles?

Thanks for all your suggestions so far. Really interesting stuff.

Rob
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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Joined
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000148
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5901
So. Bit of an update. ran the bike this morning (Tuesday am) - absolutely fine...no problemo. I'm convinced that not running the bike over the weekend causes something to not work quite right come Monday morning.

SuperSabre...is that the 'enrichner' I've heard other people describe? Did your bike have an intermittent idle problem....even though the engine was hot and had run 30 - 40 miles?

Thanks for all your suggestions so far. Really interesting stuff.

Rob
I had to turn the idle up a hair so it wouldn't quit on me. And that was after warm up. It also had an issue when trying to start it, after filling it up or just taking a break. It wasn't consistently doing it, but got worse as time went by.

Good luck!
 

Igofar

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Hi, was a solution found to this problem? Seems to be similar to one im having.
Thanks.
Sounds like you've got a loose spark plug as well (knocking).
Check/clean the 5 way tee, and flush/clean out the coolant line (downward one) going to the Idle wax valve.
:WCP1:
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Australia
Sounds like you've got a loose spark plug as well (knocking).
Check/clean the 5 way tee, and flush/clean out the coolant line (downward one) going to the Idle wax valve.
:WCP1:
Already all done.
Cleaning out the 5 way, and replacing the old cracked hoses lead me to find the idle was screwed all the way up.
and did a full coolat flush not long ago with no issues.
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
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kankakee
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R1200rt
Possible wires or boots . I would also check the the vacuum hose at the fuel pressure regulator. If there is any hint of fuel in it the pressure regulator diaphragm is leaking. That could cause the symptoms you have.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Australia
Possible wires or boots . I would also check the the vacuum hose at the fuel pressure regulator. If there is any hint of fuel in it the pressure regulator diaphragm is leaking. That could cause the symptoms you have.
Already checked, and confirmed working.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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Having been caught out by corroding copper cored HT leads and a couple of faulty plug caps this might be relevant. The symptoms were poor tick-over, stumbling when under load unless I dropped down a couple of gears to keep the revs up, and lumpy running - again unless the revs were high. The high revs were needed to boost the strength of the 'spark'.
The plug caps screw into the stranded copper core - about an inch.

I cannot tell that it is this fault precisely, but the sound doesn't dismiss it either. Take a look at this from my experience. See if owt matches.

(2) ST1300 Poor Running - HT Leads & Plugs - Solved | ST1300 Tech | ST-Owners.com (st-owners.com)
 
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